Category: Sewing Adventures

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Sewing Adventures – Malvarosa Dress

I hope everyone has had a good weekend? The highlight of my weekend was my attempt to cut my own fringe. It was getting a bit long and needed a trim. Turns out cutting hair is nothing like cutting fabric and I was in rapid danger of losing all my hair in trying to straighten up the original mess. So in a stroke of genius I stuck a piece of washi tape across the bottom of my fringe and then neatly trimmed to it’s edge. Unconventional yes but in a crisis, it worked.

In other weekend matters I managed some sewing and made 4 kinds of soup so my freezer is now nicely restocked. Most of my sewing is of the pattern testing kind so I can’t share it all yet so instead I’m sharing my Malvarosa dress.

This dress was made all the way back at the beginning of the year and has been waiting to be blogged until I got some decent photos of it. I wore it to our first Sydney Spoolettes meet up. Thanks to When All you Need is for the photo.

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It appears however that my hate of getting my photo taken does quite clearly result in terrible photos.

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These are the best of all the ones taken, 3 different locations and just all blah. I really dislike being in front of the camera. So while the photos are a fail, the dress however is quite the success. I’ve worn it a few times and while there are some minor tweaks I will do if making it again I’m pretty happy with this version.

From the original pattern I made some changes

  • shortened the dress through the body

It was just too long for my torso. So I took out some of the length. From bust up I left it alone and only took out from lower chest to hip. I took it out in 2 sections as I took out around 12cm to 15cm in length.

  • shortened the length of the skirt

Even with shortening the torso it was still too long so I took at least an additional 10cm out of the skirt length. It was possibly more as I can’t quite remember if I re cut the hem before finally stitching it in place.

  • added a centre back seam

I was working with vintage fabric and there was no other way I could fit the pattern on the meterage I had. In future I think I will do this anyway as I have a slight pooling of fabric at my lower back and the centre back seam could be nipped in just at the base which would eliminate this pooling.

  • blocked in the neckline to narrow the opening

Even on my wideish shoulders I found the neckline just too open. I added in 4cm to each side and then reshaped that back into the original neckline.

  • lined the bodice instead of using the facings.

The pattern called for a neck facing and a sleeve facing. they would have overlapped under the shoulder seam and I thought it would look bulky and messy. So instead using a lightweight voile I cut an entire front and back and did a fully bagged out lining for the entire upper half. Is incredibly clean finish, adds a nice shape to the body of the garment and means zero handstitching too.

  • added width to the skirt.

I was using vintage fabric and if I had cut the required skirt width I would’ve been left with only 10cm leftover fabric. Instead I decided to make the skirt a bit wider so I could use more of the vintage fabric.

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Now to be fair most of these were due to me being just on 150cm tall (5 foot) so I had height issues to deal with, and because I was using a narrow width vintage fabric. So not everyone is going to need to make these changes. But I would certainly be checking the length before cutting any fabric as it seemed overly generous in length.

Overall it’s very very comfortable and easy to wear. The pockets in the drop waist seam are fantastic and really useful. I’m looking forward to making some cotton versions for next summer and am considering a winter weight version too?

Day 26Pattern: Pauline Alice Malvarosa

Fabric: Cotton pique purchased at Gardems in Brisbane during my first year of fashion college (and yes it’s old enough to be classed as vintage now..eek)

Shoes: Marc Jacobs suede booties

 

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Black

blackBlack seems to be a colour that gets co opted into many subcultures. Religious garb, goths, punks, rock n rollers, they all wear black. For some it’s tradition, for others they are clinging to the idea of when wearing black was considered anti establishment.

Black is not a colour I consider all that much. Apart from some tights and underwear until recently I never even owned any black clothes. In a rare moment I purchased a black dress (admittedly a black dress with enormous bronze metallic polka dots on it) but still it’s black. For me black was boring, it was for people who didn’t want to think about what they wore. They wanted to blend in, be like everyone else and their highest clothing ambition was to buy yet another pair of black polyester pants to wear to work.

For the most part that’s still how I view black for myself, but every so often I see a piece that challenges my notions of boring predictability and then I kind of nod and think, yep that’s doing it right.

Do you consider black to be safe and boring? or do you seek out black as a way of expressing something different?

To continue seeing black in new ways I’ve been collecting ideas on my Pinterest board.

1- via the colour inspiration 2 – via Elle.com 3 via Madewell 4 – via TheblondeSalad

 

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Isaac Mizrahi

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I knew of Isaac Mizrahi and his movie Unzipped came out when I was at fashion college. His styles were great in a very American sportswear way and I love his take on the prom dress styles.

What I really admired is his resilience. He lost his label so he designed for Target (one of the first big names to). His reasoning, why should people with less money have less style.

It is this practical approach that charms me most. He knows that not everyone can afford the big budget stuff and instead of ignoring them he looks at the commercial reality and makes it happen. A truly admirable aspect of a designer.

I often hear the term designer applied to many people and it’s true that sometimes an idea pops into your head and you have “designed” something. But to be a truly successful designer, that’s all about the hard yards. About week after week, year after year producing commercially successful ranges. That takes true talent, drive and a head for not only numbers but for interpreting the customer. It’s those traits that truly make a designer a success.

1- via PopSugar 2 – via VOGUE  3 – via VOGUE

I’ve found various copies of Unzipped on YouTube so if you were after something to watch while sewing I can recommend it as a snapshot into the American Industry at the time.

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Green

green

Green as grass, green with envy, Kelly green, Kermit green. There are a lot of ways to describe green. It can be show stopping. We all remember the green dress from Atonement, even if we haven’t seen the film.

I’d like to see green get all grown up, less of the national sports colour (Australia, Brazil, South Africa, Green Bay Packers) and more sophisticated. From Emerald to grass and all it’s varying shades I want them to become fashion forces in their own right.

They are universally flattering, look good in a silk or a cotton and have a lighter less harsh sense than Black or Navy but can still be savvy and businesslike.

How about you? are you ready for green to have it’s moment in the sun?

Katie Ermilio via Moda Operandi, Zac Posen dress via The Chic Department, Ellie Saab via Style Bistro, Green Skirt via Harpers Bazaar

As always more inspiration on our Green Pinterest Board

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Designer Influence – Westwood

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I think what gets me most about Westwood is the drama of it all. It tells a story, the narrative goes from season to season and she doesn’t stray too far from her strengths.
Take a historical slant, bend it, twist it, subvert it and present it back to the audience as something new yet profoundly familiar because it is rooted in history of clothing.
Her corsets and crinolines have always fascinated me, they seem to be engineered rather than sewn but when you see glimpses of her workrooms as in many of the documentaries made on her work, you see the incredibly technical aspects of her workers.
As a fashion student I was convinced I was going to be the next Westwood, it was only as I learnt and grew as a designer that I realised not only that I couldn’t be the next Westwood but I also didn’t want to be? She is the best and only Westwood there is, and that anything less was a pale imitation thereof. Much better to learn and find my own way than strive to be a lessor version of someone else.

Floral dress via DesignerzCentral Westwood for the Vienna Ballet via Untitled Magazine Check jacket via FIDM Museum  Header image via HelloTailor

 

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Red

redRed, a pure bold statement colour. The colour of love, the carpet of Hollywood and a rich statement of style and confidence.

I really like red, it takes on an almost fluid inky like depth when worn on it’s own but it also makes a denim outfit pop with the combination of indigo and red.

It seems harder to find when searching for fabrics. Somehow pink in all it’s shades has become easier to find than red. Is it because it’s so hard to perfect red? Too much yellow in the base and suddenly you are into an orange red territory which only those who favour Autumn tones can wear. Add some blue to the base and you get a richer more vibrant red. One that I find is more flattering as it goes with more colours.

Within the stash there is a few metres of a wonderful sandwashed silk in a perfect blue base red colour. It was given to me as a present and I’m yet to find a style special enough to cut into it. But every so often I take it out, give it a pat and put it back in the box. It will be a statement dress so I want to ensure I get the statement correct before I cut into it.

Zac Posen Dress red cyclist via PopBee Red Dress via The Sartorialist Alexa Chung in red lace from Net-a-Porter magazine

As always there is a Red board on Pinterest for you to take a look at for more inspiration

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Designer Inspiration – Galliano

Galliano

Galliano has long been on of my favourite designers. I loved the sheer over the top, put as many influences as we can into one outfit and then make it bigger type of style that he has. Naturally along with everyone else I was horrified to hear the dreadful things he said and his downfall. I did debate not adding him to this series but I thought that would be disingenuous as he really is an influence to my work.

I am in no way excusing any of what he said by saying I admire his talent and design. What he did as a designer was breathtaking and innovative and often moved me to tears just from it’s sheer beauty and majesty, it’s that spine tingling expression through fabric that I celebrate.

From the slinky bias cut dress to the cinched waists and full skirts of the styles above, I loved it all. Fabric became architectural, multilayered and embellished to an inch of it’s life and then it was shown with more precision than a broadway show.

Sometimes I just want to capture just a tiny bit of all that drama and harness it into an everyday piece. Something that becomes an icon around which a wardrobe and style can be built. Until I can make that happen I will continue to admire the drama of the clothes.

Image credits pink dress Photo by Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images) found via Yellow Paper Dress Maroon Dress via Zimbio Lemon Dress via TeaCupsandCouture Green Ombre Via Telegraph UK photo by Stephen Look

These designer influences are in no particular order and as I really did debate if I should add Galliano or not I figure I might as well get the controversy over with at the start.

 

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White

white

White clothes can get a bad wrap, too pristine, too hospital, too clinical. but therein can lie it’s deceptive quality. A clean slate with which to shine.

It always looks so crisp and perfect, a wonderful foil with which to play with textures and layering or to make accessories stand out.

Personally I would love to add more to my wardrobe but have a massive issue. Cat hair. I’d leave the house looking like I’d rolled in lint and I’m sure it would only get worse from there. Perhaps white is best saved for those without kitties?

1 white coat via Coffeewithnaima 2 white outfit via Stylabl 3 white dress via Stealthestyle  4 white top and shorts via The Petticoat

More white inspiration can be found on our Pinterest board.

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Designer Inspiration

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There is a wonderful Stella McCartney quote that I read years ago and has always stuck with me. In an interview Stella was asked what other designers does she wear. Her response was if I’m wearing other designers pieces it means I’m not doing my job right.

I love that. Because if as a designer you are spending all your time wanting someone else’s designs then you aren’t working hard enough.

As a sewer though, I love seeing others ideas. How they translate different fabrics and trims into garments. Not to copy them but to get ideas on going the extra mile to make garments really interesting.

For the next few weeks I’ll be sharing one designer a week who has had an influence on me. I’ll talk about why I like their style and what they taught me. As a designer I feel like it is all interconnected in the establishment of my own personal style. Many places I have worked I design to a specific brief or client so it’s not what I would wear or want but about the ability to see what the customer would want. Which is a great ability to have, to see what others want. When I flip it around though, I want to see what exactly it is that I want and how to translate that into the styles that I sew.

I hope you will enjoy the series of posts I have planned and perhaps even find something that inspires you too?

Image credit left to right: Motti – Tokyo, Marc Jacobs Photo by Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images) found via YellowPaperDress

 

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Sewing Adventures – Japanese inspired menswear

Exciting day as today I’m featuring some menswear sewing.

On our last trip to Japan we stayed at a pod/capsule hotel. But not just any pod hotel, this one looks like something from Space Odyssey and is possibly one of the coolest places I have ever slept.

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You book in and pack all your belongings into lockers. From there you can go in and have showers, in the lockers at the showers there are pyjamas for you to put on, then lounge about in the common room, before heading off to your pod to sleep (pods and showers are also on separate floors for men and women).

I got a modified version of a tracksuit to wear with long pants elastic waist pants and a long sleeve round neck top. It was fine, until I saw that The Englishman had been provided with a traditional Jinbei or Japanese lounge wear. It consists of a pair of drawstring shorts and a jacket/top with elbow length sleeves, a band style collar and crosses over and ties at the side. Not only did it look Boss As, it was also super comfortable. Despite being highly tempted to pack it in his bag and take it home with him, he didn’t steal it but instead we found a store selling traditional clothes where he bought himself one. That poor Jinbei has been worn to shreds. It was in high rotation as after long bicycle rides or running it was the perfect lounge around the house and recover type outfit.

So the mission has been on to re create a Jinbei. I had picked up a pattern from my favourite Japanese fabric store while we in Japan and made it up once before. I obviously wasn’t thinking as I cut it out on the largest size. It swam on The Englishman who while tall is incredibly fit and so very lean.

On the last Sydney Spoolettes visit to Cabramatta I picked up some fabrics to start the Jinbei production line. A brown stripe cotton linen with a slub in the weave and a blue and white cotton chambray. I tested the shorts of the pattern out in the brown stripe first. This time I’ve cut them out to the smallest size.

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They are very simple pull on style shorts with a drawstring waist. To make them more comfortable I’ve made three quarters of the waistband a super soft elastic and then stitched cotton tape to the ends of the elastic to create the drawcord. All of that is hidden inside the waist casing but it just adds to the comfort.

These photos make his feet look weird. He is a cyclist and usually has shaved legs, but here the tan line on his ankle is making his feet look freakishly pale.

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The cotton/linen was beautiful to sew with and I’m kicking myself I didn’t buy enough to make a matching Jinbei jacket to go with the shorts. So for now The Englishman is accessorising with Dinosaur t-shirts.

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