dress – Measure Twice Cut Once

Posted on 09/05/2022 by Susan Goodwin — Leave a comment

Sewing Adventures – Pink Embroidered Babydoll

Second make from the stash and it’s this gorgeous embroidered cotton lawn. At first I didn’t know where I had got this one from but I consulted my Cora fabric stash app and it has it recorded as being from Pitt Trading.

I kind of didn’t know what I wanted to make with this one but I had it with me while I was away dog sitting along with my standard block and thought I’d have a little play with making the neckline a little more square, narrow the shoulder straps, drop the back neck to be a scoop back, eliminate the centre back zip and of course change it to a more empire line bodice. I know it reads like a lot of changes but it actually wasn’t too big an ordeal mostly just drawing lines and adjusting.

The skirt was determined by the amount of leftover fabric which I cut in half across the width of the fabric to make the skirt length (being short is such a win for using up less fabrics!). Then it was gathered tightly onto the bodice which had been bagged out with some white cotton lawn (also from the stash). I added a lining to the skirt of white cotton lawn (also gathered) but because I did the gathering separately it makes the skirt seem extra floofy so the whole thing feels like a cloud.

I had to wait till I got home from dog sitting to do some overlocking as I did attempt to zig zag the fabric but the zig zag did not play well with the embroidery so I thought I’ll just wait and overlock it at home.

Pattern: self drafted block

Fabric: embroidered cotton lawn and plain cotton lawn both from the stash originally from Pitt Trading

Changes: pattern changes as noted above

Posted on 02/04/202006/04/2020 by Susan Goodwin — Leave a comment

Sewing Adventures – Navy Floral dress

Sometimes you just need a fast trouble free sew and this is mine, standard bodice block, cut the skirt the width of the fabric to either pleat or gather. Invisible zip, bias bind neck and armholes then done. Easy made it a fair few times before.

Then you try the dress on immediately break the invisible zip, need to unpick, re insert, don’t like how it lines up, throw it in the naughty corner while you go overseas on holiday, come back re insert again and by now are so over it you don’t mind it’s not 100% lined up so you just finish it and be done. So yeah totally a fast sew..

Pattern: My bodice block and skirt is the width of the fabric front and back

Fabric: cotton lawn picked up in Cabramatta for about $8 a metre possibly less

Alterations: bodice may need adjusting now I have refitted my bras? also wrinkle on back? bad posture or needs a bigger sway back adjustment?

Posted on 31/10/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 2 Comments

Sewing Adventures – Return of Simplicity 8048

Sometimes you like a dress so much you just have to make another one, so that’s what I did! You may remember the African Wax print fabric I made into Simplicity 8048?

Well I love wearing it, the swishy skirt, the flatness around the waistline and the overall fit is super comfortable and flattering to wear. I had been given some fabric for my birthday from the lovely Dale whom I work with at Pitt Trading. We are there on Fridays together and love coming up with plans for all the fabric. She thought this fabric was perfect for me and so gave it to me as a gift. So sweet!

It’s a polished cotton but so lightweight that it’s practically a lawn. Seriously it feels like a cloud it’s so fine. I wanted to be able to wear it to work so I added a cotton voile lining to the bodice and a cotton poplin lining to the skirt. The voile keeps the bodice super lightweight while the poplin gives the skirt just a touch more body and weight. Last time I added pockets, this time I omitted them as the fabric is so lightweight I was worried about draglines if I put anything in my pockets.

I did a fully bagged out lining so no edges are showing and did a decent (but not brilliant) effort of putting in the invisible zip. I used a zip I had on hand so it’s actually a pale grey colour.

Now I cut this one out without reading my blog notes from before and so didn’t alter the top neckline. It “puffs” ever so slightly above the bust in the strap area. If I stand very straight and pull the bodice down to my waistline it fixes the puffing. My guess it it’s a touch tight over the bust and is pulling up to find the path of least resistance. It’s vaguely annoying but not annoying enough for me to pull apart the dress and remake the bodice. Hopefully a different bra will fix the issue? If not I’ve noted it for next time.

Fabric: Polished cotton from Pitt Trading, given as a gift from Dale

Trims: invisible zip from the stash

Pattern: my own bodice plus Simplicity 8048 skirt

Alterations for next time: see if I can sort out that neckline bubbling issue.

Posted on 07/03/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 6 Comments

Sewing Adventures – Embroidered Coral and Cream dress

One of my goals this year is to reduce my stash, by sewing more of it. I have some gorgeous fabrics that I have bought, been given or picked up along the way and they sit in boxes. No more I say, it’s all the good fabrics everyday around here.

This is one such fabric. Bought ages ago in Cabramatta for the princely sum of $10 a metre.

At the time I must’ve been planning a skirt as there wasn’t a whole lot of it. Maybe 1.5m? I also wanted to take advantage of the beautiful edging so some careful planning was required. I measure out a long rectangle that went the length of the fabric panel. That was to become the skirt with only a centre back panel. This left a long narrow top section with the scallop edge still intact.

I’ve been working on perfecting a bodice pattern for myself. It still needs some work but it’s getting closer. I used this pattern and laid it onto the panel to create a wrap over front and V back. I’d like to say it was all carefully planned and calculated but I totally winged it.

The bodice was a simple construction of darts, shoulder and side seams, while the skirt was simply gathered onto the bodice and a seam put into the centre back.

The whole thing is lined in coral cotton silk and there is an invisible zip at centre back. The zip insertion is fantastic but the embroidery means it’s a little tough to raise up and down. In hindsight I should have totally put in a lapped zip. The linking is hands itched around the neckline to keep it in place and there are a few sneaky stitches at centre front keeping the crossover in place. I had a fuzzy supervisor for my hand sewing.

I wore it out yesterday to catch up with my niece and nephew. Their tiny cousin was with them and she loved my dress and wanted to be my friend because I had a “pretty dress”. Kid compliments are awesome.

Fabric: Embroidered cotton from Cabramatta.

Dress Pattern: winged it, bodice based on my own block.

Alterations: next time I’d raise the centre front cross over a little.

Posted on 01/09/201401/09/2014 by Susan Goodwin — 23 Comments

Sewing Adventures: a tale of 2 dresses

Over the past few weeks I have set myself the task of getting my “to do” pile of sewing down to a more manageable size. My usual way of preparing a garment to be sewn is to cut it out, include all the fabrics, trims, interfacing, pattern etc into a jumbo zip lock bag, seal it up and add it to the in progress box. This works great, it keeps things tidy, the cat is less likely to want to sleep on top of it and if I can’t get to it straight away then I can’t lose any of the pieces.

In working my way through the stack I came across 2 very pretty dresses. This Cynthia Rowley one from Simplicity in navy and the Gathered Sundress from Pattern Runway in white. Both cut out in Japanese Lawn. Setting aside some time I made them up, as it got closer to the time to add in the zips something became very clear.

I’ve put on weight.

These are not going to fit. Now normally this would relegate them back into the “to do” pile, but I need the space. So I finished the dresses. The navy Cynthia Rowley style only needs a zip in the side seam and it’s done. The white Pattern Runway dress needs a centre back zip and the hem to be done. So all in, these dresses need less than half an hours work to be wearable.

I however need more than half an hour. I’ve not been exercising as much and some incredibly high stress levels means I’ve been stress eating. In addition to weight gain this has also meant an increase in migraines and some other issues, most of which I know are more easily taken care of when I am being active.

So my plan is to pop them in the cupboard, work away with my fitness and my diet and in a couple of weeks try again. Then if they don’t fit, I try my fitness again, basically repeat until they fit.

Now I want to be very clear, this is not about size, this is about fitness. When I am fitter my body has a different shape, it gets stronger, it supports me, physically and mentally I feel better. After a winter of plenty of working from home (comfy track pants and loose tshirts may feel awesome, but they also hide when the weight starts to change), too much comfort food and not enough exercise has turned my muscle to pudge. Pudge sits on my body in a weird way and this is why things aren’t fitting the way they should.

Once again sewing has taught me to enjoy and use all the skills I have in all areas of my life. Because when one gets put off balance there are follow on effects. In this case it means dresses that don’t fit now, but it’s OK. They will fit later and in the meantime act as good incentive to get moving.

So has anyone else ever had the problem of not fitting into their projects? or anyone want to come and get fit with me?

Posted on 18/08/201418/08/2014 by Susan Goodwin — 16 Comments

Sewing Adventures – Paris Malvarosa dress

I have dreamt about going to Paris for forever, like forever forever. In my mind I always had it worked out that I could be there in July when it would be summer, I could celebrate my birthday there with The Englishman, the couture shows are on and the Tour de France finishes in Paris. Add in some cheese, bread and pastries and we are pretty much getting close to all my favourite things in one place. So far that is yet to happen, but I have been living vicariously though the Instagram feeds of Roisin and Christine. Jealous much? um yeah, a whole lot of jealous.

So instead of being in Paris for my birthday I found myself in Bondi Junction Spotlight and saw some lovely Japanese Lawn (I adore this fabric so much). Not overly thinking it I saw it as a lovely geometric print…then I realised no, it was mini Eiffel towers with lasers shooting out of it! SOLD!

I needed something fun to make out of it and settled on the Pauline Alice Malvarosa dress as I love the ease of construction, no zips, no buttons! Plus it’s breezy style is perfect for this odd inbetween type weather we are in as I can match it with tights and a jacket and then as it warms up wear it on it’s own.

I finished it up last week and was wearing it to head to a meeting so grabbed 3 very quick photos before I headed out. Only 3 because I had a meeting and it was so windy this day that I couldn’t wait to put my jacket on.

I’m standing weirdly and the wind has caught my skirt but I’m pretty happy with the dress. I find the lawn gets a better drape to it after it’s been washed which means the skirt looses some of it’s poufyness at the gathering which is good. The wrinkle above the bust is due to me being slouchy more than anything else.

I didn’t get a back shot but I get some slight pooling at the lower back, am unsure if it’s because the gathering skirt was sticking to my tights or if I could take it in a bit? I’m not bothered by it as I prefer a drop waisted dress to be loose and breezy but I’d like to see if I can fix it?

Much like my last Malvarosa I didn’t bother with the facings, just bagged the whole top out for a clean finish.

One last photo of me trying not to laugh and telling The Englishman to hurry up so I can put on my jacket. The complete derp face photo I’m saving for instagram as it’s just too “what the?” style face. So funny.

Posted on 15/05/201419/06/2019 by Susan Goodwin — Leave a comment

Designer Inspiration – Galliano

Galliano has long been on of my favourite designers. I loved the sheer over the top, put as many influences as we can into one outfit and then make it bigger type of style that he has. Naturally along with everyone else I was horrified to hear the dreadful things he said and his downfall. I did debate not adding him to this series but I thought that would be disingenuous as he really is an influence to my work.

I am in no way excusing any of what he said by saying I admire his talent and design. What he did as a designer was breathtaking and innovative and often moved me to tears just from it’s sheer beauty and majesty, it’s that spine tingling expression through fabric that I celebrate.

From the slinky bias cut dress to the cinched waists and full skirts of the styles above, I loved it all. Fabric became architectural, multilayered and embellished to an inch of it’s life and then it was shown with more precision than a broadway show.

Sometimes I just want to capture just a tiny bit of all that drama and harness it into an everyday piece. Something that becomes an icon around which a wardrobe and style can be built. Until I can make that happen I will continue to admire the drama of the clothes.

Image credits pink dress Photo by Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images) found via Yellow Paper Dress Maroon Dress via Zimbio Lemon Dress via TeaCupsandCouture Green Ombre Via Telegraph UK photo by Stephen Look

These designer influences are in no particular order and as I really did debate if I should add Galliano or not I figure I might as well get the controversy over with at the start.

Posted on 09/05/201419/06/2019 by Susan Goodwin — 4 Comments

White

White clothes can get a bad wrap, too pristine, too hospital, too clinical. but therein can lie it’s deceptive quality. A clean slate with which to shine.

It always looks so crisp and perfect, a wonderful foil with which to play with textures and layering or to make accessories stand out.

Personally I would love to add more to my wardrobe but have a massive issue. Cat hair. I’d leave the house looking like I’d rolled in lint and I’m sure it would only get worse from there. Perhaps white is best saved for those without kitties?

1 white coat via Coffeewithnaima 2 white outfit via Stylabl 3 white dress via Stealthestyle 4 white top and shorts via The Petticoat

More white inspiration can be found on our Pinterest board.

Posted on 27/01/201426/01/2014 by Susan Goodwin — 6 Comments

Sewing Adventures

Sometimes you just need a dress, not a fancy dress or even a complicated dress. More of a “it’s been hot and I need something to throw on” type of dress.

On Saturday I went to take a look at the Follow Store closing down sale (so sad Sydney is losing yet another independent retail store). They had suitcases filled with vintage remnants they were letting go at bargain prices. So naturally I picked some up, which is totally a violation of the no adding to the stash rule of 2014. Despite this, I was determined that it should not remain in the stash long.

So on Sunday I cut out Simplicity 1873 which I have made a few times before. It’s simple but looks good and I make it faster by not doing any facings or linings but instead using bias binding to finish the neck and armholes.

By late afternoon I was done and had a new dress to wear. It’s nothing fancy, just simple and practical and the fabric is pretty. In the spirit of using up things from the stash I put an exposed chunky zip at the centre back and used what bias I had for the neck and armholes.

Overall I am pretty happy with the make and look forward to having a comfortable dress dress to pop on when I am at home.

Posted on 18/11/2013 by Susan Goodwin — 1 Comment

Sewing Adventures

What a wet and wild weekend here in Sydney. Wet weather is perfect for sewing….then again what weather isn’t perfect for sewing?

Finished up this Simplicity style which is yet another Cynthia Rowley design (I do like her style). The fabric is from Cabramatta (a suburb of Sydney well known for it’s bargain fabric shopping) and I think the entire dress cost like .50 cents?

Now this one may yet end up a disaster. I have made the exact same pattern before and it fits well. So bouyed by the success of the last time I made this style I went ahead and finished the whole dress without trying it on. It was only when trying it on that I realised the fabric has zero give in it. I actually got stuck in the dress when trying to get out of it. Minor panic attack time.

I’ve now gone back and reduced all the seams, let out the darts a bit and even moved the front opening. It’s still a bit tough to get in and out of but it looks good. Am hoping that with time it will relax a bit? Sadly that wasn’t the only downfall with this make.

Now I love my sewing machine, it is simple and a super hard worker and I treasure it as it was a present for my birthday/doing well in fashion college from my parents. But I don’t love it’s buttonholes. They are a bit wimpy. Just not enough stitches to create a nice polished look. I generally end up doing 2 buttonholes one on top of the other to make the buttonholes stronger. With the buttonholes being quite literally front and centre on this dress it just makes me go hmmm a bit and wish for a more professional finish.

Despite setbacks of not quite enough give and not quite professional looking buttonholes, it looks good and will be a welcome addition to the work wardrobe.

I hope you all had productive weekend’s too?