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Using your Designer Manual for Basics

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In every pdf pattern released by Measure Twice Cut Once includes the exclusive Designer Manual.

When I first decided I wanted to release patterns I wanted to bring to them something more than one pattern is one make. I wanted it to be like how I work as a designer. When I’m working on a range a huge number of variables come into play from market wants/needs all the way down to how many cents I can spend on buttons. Some days it can feel a bit like design by numbers. But it has taught me a very valuable skill.

Every garment is a block.

A best seller last season can be tweaked this year and re released to become something new and exciting. Substitute that ruffle for a placket, move that trim, use that trim over there. Make things mix and match.

All of this has accumulated into the Designer Manual. Take the Racer Back tank, here are just some of the variations suggested

Womens-racer-back-singlet-variationsEven more than using my suggestions, I want you to use your own ideas. Mix and blend your own style into the shapes. Make it your own. Make it work for your lifestyle and what you want.

It’s truly exciting to be able to release the patterns and then see what you all create with them. The endless interpretations are a fascinating insight into what we all want from our wardrobes and how we make our styles work for us.

I sincerely hope that the Designer Manual inspires you to bring your own design skills to the patterns and interpret them for yourself.

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Basics Collection – information schedule

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Thank you all for the great response to the release of the Basics Collection yesterday. I’m so glad that the concept of wearable everyday Basics is so appealing to everyone.

To help you out with fabrics and planning for your new Basics there are some posts coming up that are filled with information. Here is a brief rundown of what you can expect

  • Choosing fabrics for your Racer Back singlet
  • Types of stitching
  • Ideas from the Designer Manual
  • Additional inspiration
  • Sewalong dates

Requests have already been coming in for pieces that people want as everyday basics so if you have a special request pop it into the comments and we will see what we can do for you.

 

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Basics Collection – Now Available

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Today is the start of something new. We are launching a collection, not in one go but over time it will be added to at various points. The pieces are not flashy but they are necessary. Welcome to the Basics Collection.

Like many sewers I love making clothes, but there are some pieces that I’ve never found the right pattern for, or it was easier to get a ready to wear piece because the patterns weren’t modern and didn’t work the way I wanted. These were just every day pieces, Basics.

Throughout May I watched with eager anticipation to see what everyone was wearing for Me Made May. During the month and in almost all the round ups people mentioned that they need Basics. Everyday pieces that fitted into their lifestyles. That let them be comfortable after a hard day at work, allowed them to be active with the family of a weekend or were just a necessary addition to their wardrobe.

This tied in with my need for pieces that allowed me to have an entirely me made wardrobe that let comfort and fashion merge and are the items that are at the core of what many of us wear.

And so the Basics Collection came into being. Today a single piece kicks it off. A women’s racer back singlet, suitable for stretch knit fabrics.

womens-racer-singlet-cover

In each pattern you receive

  • pdf pattern that utilises the least amount of paper to print it on. Works on both letter and A4 formats
  • copy shop print size, see the file name for the size of paper you need for printing
  • an instruction manual. Read the handy “read before printing” page to see which pages you need to print out. Saving you paper and ink
  • the signature Measure Twice Cut Once Designer Manual which gives you the opportunity to flex your design skills and bring your own style to the pattern

Over time the Basics Collection will be added to. Giving you modern patterns that perfectly fill those gaps within your wardrobe.

 

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Dressing up in Japan

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Yesterday I shared some photos on Instagram of some of my favourite holiday memories.

Dressing up in Japan.

It should be ultra cheesy and horribly touristy but it’s not. It’s fun and you get to choose your kimono from an entire roomful of gorgeous colours.

Japan lilac

I’ve had photos done on 2 different trips to Japan, each done at the same place Maiko Henshin in Kyoto. I originally discovered it, as one of my best friends lived in Japan for many years and on a visit he suggested it as something fun to do.

You need to book in advance but unless you are there in peak holiday time you can normally book only a day or so in advance, other times it can be over a week before there is space. The staff have limited English so the first time my friends booked for me and the second time I asked my hotel to help me with the booking.

dressing up in Japan

When you arrive you are shown into a locker room and given a chemise to change in to. Take off everything but your underwear and pop on the chemise. All of your belongings put into a secure locker and you get a key on a stretchy cord to wear around your wrist. If you want to take your camera with you, you may have to ask permission as normally they ask even your phones to be locked up. Photos are not allowed until after you are fully dressed and finished with the professional photographer.

From there you go up a few floors to get your makeup done. The makeup feels weird. It’s a thick white paint and just a little cold when being applied. The staff are all lovely and each time they have gone to great lengths to tell me to take out my contacts. After awhile I managed to convince them that my blue eyes were not contact lenses but just my eye colour.

After make up you go down a floor and led into the most amazing room absolutely bursting at the seams with kimonos of all colours and patterns. You are asked to choose a kimono and an obi. It is overwhelming and you want to steal them all (well I certainly did, want to that is, I didn’t actually steal them).

In the next room a small army of women dress you. You lift your arms when told and they swarm around you. The idea is create a square silhouette so extra padding is applied. You feel like a couch!

All too soon you are dressed and they are tying up your kimono with a decorative belt. Then it’s time for a wig. Each time I have been very blonde (the first time was actually blonde and pink) so I get a full wig. In some of the photos I can just spy little bits of blonde at the back. Seeing myself in dark hair is always a little bit of a shock.

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The photography room is adjacent to the dressing room. Here is a tip my friends gave me on the first trip and it’s so good I just have to tell everyone. Don’t smile with your teeth in the photos. Closed lip smiles only. Why? The white make up is so astoundingly white, you look as if you have terrible yellowed teeth even if you have fabulous teeth. So practice a closed smile. Oh and go with a neutral nail polish or none at all. It really shows up in photos and can clash with the traditional look.

The photographer poses you with a variety of props. Fans, umbrellas, bags and a Temari (embroidered ball). They pose you, tell you where to look at the wall (there are numbers on the wall for you to follow) and all too soon you are done.

kimono and temari

You can pay for an extra package which allows you time to walk around outside. I’ve done this both times. First time was fantastic as it was beautifully sunny and wonderful to pose outdoors amongst the traditional buildings. The second time it was raining and well lets just say that photos in the foyer are not very spectacular.

Japan outside

All up it takes a couple of hours and is a really wonderful experience. It’s not exactly cheap and be warned they don’t take credit cards only cash so come prepared. After you are done with the photos you get undressed (with help) and then back to the locker room. Using many many many wipes and a hefty dose of baby oil you can get the white make up off.

Oh and it’s not just for the ladies, the men can also get dressed up too, with The Englishman choosing to dress as a Ronin.

dressing up in japan couple

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Purple

purple

The colour of royalty, passion and Prince. Purple is unexpected, subtly sexy and eye catching. Wear it for maximum impact.

From lilac, through to purple and on to aubergine there is a shade of purple to suit you. I love it’s unexpectedness. It’s not available all the time and if you go looking for it, it can be elusive. It really is a statement, a pretty lilac can shine brighter than a sea full of pinks at a wedding, a purple dress clash magnificently with the red carpet, grapes and plums steal an unexpected limelight and match beautifully with silver.

While I sometimes lament that Purple is not more readily available, I’m secretly happy that it’s just a little bit hard to find. It stops it from being ordinary.

Our Pinterest board celebrates Purple in all it’s lush glory.

1- via Fashiondetails 2 – via Zanita 3 – via nestprettyThings 4 – via BracesandLaces

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2014 Sewing Goals – half year check in

2014 sewing goals

I cannot believe that it’s July already, talk about flying through the year. Seeing as how we are halfway through the year I thought I’d check back in with my sewing goals and see where I need to get my skates on and work a bit harder.

1: Sew from the stash. This is a work in progress, I feel like I’ve made some good progress using what I have and sold some of the stash at fabric-a-brac. Downside I have added to the stash too, but most of “added” pieces have been made up. I want to continue to stash bust for the remainder of the year and limit any additions to fabric that will not get made up immediately.

2: Release a range of patterns. Big YES on this one. It’s been really great to share my creations with all the wonderful sewists and am looking forward to sharing more for many years to come. A very huge and heartfelt thank you to everyone who has bought, tweeted, mentioned, liked or made up any of the patterns. I am profoundly grateful for all of your support. Plus expect some new patterns VERY SOON.

3: Sew for The Englishman. The Englishman is now the proud owner of more than one set of Japanese loungewear and I’m looking to make some more things for him too.

4: Make my own bras and knickers. Not only did I make my own knickers I got everyone else to make pretty knickers too! Making knickers is incredibly satisfying and I’m so grateful that so many of you are taking the chance to make your own.

Bra’s are a work in progress and something I’ve been really enjoying working on too.

5: Quilting. Work in progress. I have a wonderful Pinterest board set up to show all kinds of scrappy quilts. For me quilting is to use up scraps, so I’ll continue cutting up the scraps to sew together soon. I’m not yet done on the quilt for my sister but will try hard to finish it up soon.

6: Get photos of myself in my makes for the blog. I’m saying this one is attempted but not yet done. I’ve tried some but I’m not good at being regular with it so am determined to keep trying.

Other things that were on the wishlist

  • give more handmade presents – the Christmas box (there is an actual box in my filing system which is the present box, all year I make and add things to it so come December we have a box of goodies to give and I’ve spread the cost over the whole year) is filling up slowly so it should be an almost all handmade Christmas.
  • hopefully teach some classes – I’ve taught some knicker classes and hoping to have some more classes up soon!
  • make time to meet up with all the lovely sewists whose blogs I read and that I chat with on Twitter – regular meet ups with the Sydney Spoolettes has been a big highlight of the year so far. Am looking forward to continuing these.

Non sewing goals of 2014 include reducing my 10km run time, run a half marathon, ride my bike more and traveling – almost all of these have been non starters. After being sick I’m in the progress of rebuilding my running so I won’t be setting any new speed goals anytime soon. Pretty much the same story with riding my bike and traveling has taken a back seat while we do some saving.

So overall not going too bad, hopefully I can cross some more off the list soon!

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Sewing Adventures – disaster time

You know how sometimes you should just go back to bed and pull the cover over your head and hide? Yeah? well that was my week.

I managed to ruin an entire pot of quinoa (yes it’s water and a grain and yes it was really ruined). This was on top of a few cooking disasters earlier in the week.

Then I was merrily finishing off a dress when I realised I had upside down sleeves

upside down sleeve

So I packed up my machine, had a nap and then a cup of tea to contemplate what had happened.

I purchased my normal amount of fabric for a dress. This is Japanese Lawn from Spotlight which I use a lot, so I know exactly how much I need. But I normally don’t have sleeves and this is a directional print. Am sure when I was cutting it out I only just had room for the sleeves and had assumed that I had cut them so they were the right way round. Clearly I hadn’t.

So I can either try and put the sleeves in back to front, they are shaped so this may lead to some fit issues? Or cut the armholes and neck to be the same as my current sleeveless versions of this pattern and not have the higher neck and sleeves.

Either way am not rushing into anything because I really don’t want this to be a disaster dress, it’s too pretty a fabric for that.

So tell me, did you have a disaster weekend too or was it just me?

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Blue

blueFrom inky depths to clear blue skies these shades can ebb and flow like the sea.

I often think of blues as the colour of summer, but that’s for the cobalt, sky and azure shades. The ones that go so well in bright conditions, shows skin in it’s best summer light and make you dream of swimming in a perfect sea.

But the darker more seductive shades can transform a winters outfit into a richness that combines colour and depth. A deft addition of indigo adds a luxury to even the most mundane of outfits.

High on my life list is to see real indigo dying in Japan. To see a master who has dedicated their life to the inky hues, that I feel will add a new dimension to the way I see blues.

For more blue take a look at the Pinterest Board

1- via Stylesight 2- via BlondeEpisodes  3 – via The Sartorialist 4- Karen Walker via Vaunt

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Japanese Street Style

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This designer influence is less about a single design than an entire collective feeling and aesthetic.

Japanese designers like Miyake and Rei had been making a name for themselves and Japanese style for many years.

Then we started to hear more about how the kids in Japan wore wacky outrageous clothes.

When the photos emerged it was a hyper colour mix of traditional Japanese mixed with Manga, fantasy and fashion. There were groups and sub groups and elements that identified you with this character or that music style. It was it’s very own visual language that moved and morphed with all the influences they were collecting.

The first time I was in Tokyo and got to see it for myself I was blown away. Within 50 square metres there were b’boys practising their dancing, a group of what appeared to be gothic clowns, some mow hawked punks with a strong American Indian aesthetic, Lolita’s, skaters, BMXers, bikies on super tricked out Motorbikes that were all chrome and bling. Then above it all there was a band performing that we’re doing some serious channeling of early Mick Jagger.

It was overwhelming but also so great to see so many people taking fashion and interpreting it in different ways. I’m sure some of them went home and wiped off the make up and put on a suit and went to work Monday to Friday. But the fact that they had this ultra creative release had this almost transformative power.

Each time I have been to Japan the scene has changed and each time it seems as if the Japanese can create looks which translate across so many levels of fashion and that eventually trickle across to influence the entire globe. The last time I was in Tokyo was not long after the devastating Tsunami. The streetwear was more subdued, there was less of the CosPlay type elements and more stores like The Gap and Zara (it seemed like very street had a Zara). I hope that these influences are temporary and they don’t take on the homogeneous looks of The West. Hopefully in time as the country heals it will show a re emergence of their unique blend and character and once again they will show the world how to embrace genres and style.

1- via Fabsugar  2- via Styleinsight 3- via Styleinsight 4 – via YourUtopia

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Me Made May 2014 Round Up

So yeah I’m running late with my MMMay14 wrap up (notice that I’m sneaking it in before yet another month goes by).

This was my first year of participating in MMM and I loved it, though by the 3rd week I was thoroughly over having to take photos. I posted all of my photos on Instagram and half heartedly did some on Flickr. I find Flickr clunky and non user friendly and the new “have to have yet another password and log in” thing they have installed just bugs me. So I found Instagram much much more user friendly and in fact just downright friendly!

The interaction between participants totally made MMM a success for me. It was highly enjoyable, I made new friends, we gained new Spoolettes and it was just fantastic. That aspect alone would make me do it all over again next year.

Ok so onto the clothes. Thank goodness for a good shoe collection it helped hide the fact that I don’t have a full length mirror and so there was a lot of downward looking selfies being taken to show off at least the prints of what I was wearing. Also thank goodness for unseasonably warm weather. If the weather had actually been what it normally was I would not have fared very well at all.

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It seems I wear a lot of

  • colours
  • florals
  • pink
  • dresses
  • skirts

and I’m ok with that. Go with your strengths and what you love is my theory.

Since MMM I’ve thought about my wardrobe more and I possibly wear jeans and a top more often than May suggests, but I find the ease of a dress very appealing. There is a reason the Japanese refer to them as a onepiece. It’s just one item instead of many you need to co ordinate.

I learnt I was missing some basics, jumpers, hoodies, t-shirts. Just simple everyday casual wear that was comfortable and fits into my lifestyle. I own these items but they are not ones that I have made. By only taking one photo a day you miss out on seeing when you change to comfortable around the house type clothes, workout wear (not me made but some is me designed) and less dressed up type pieces. Only because I was more likely to snap a photo on my way to work or a meeting than I was just wandering about the house.

It was fun. I like MMM and I think I found it incredibly easy to wear something I made everyday as I tend to do that already. Did I sometimes choose something new (and not just pull something out of the clean washing pile) just to get a different photo, yeah for sure. It also gave me an excuse to wear more of my shoe collection and that’s always a good thing!