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Sewing Adventures – Shibori Dress

This one has been sitting waiting to be posted for oh forever. I’ve never been happy with the photos I get of this dress and well today I decided it doesn’t matter just go with it.

Sometimes it’s just ALL ABOUT THE FABRIC and this is certainly one of those cases. When we attended the Shibori workshop I knew I wanted to create a piece of fabric that I could turn into a garment. With that in mind I found some nice quality 100% cotton, pre washed it and took it with me to the workshop. It dyed fantastically well but it’s a super solid fabric so it has zero give in it, sometimes while wearing the finished dress it feels somewhat restrictive. You can see here how it pulls at the waist and the strain on the invisible zipper.

After learning about the techniques and having a bit of an experiment (the results of those I used here) I decided to go with an Itajme resist, where wooden shapes are used alongside the folding and pleating to create the design. It’s wonderfully effective and I loved the end result. What I really loved those was the pieces where the folds weren’t perfect and you go these cool spiderweb style designs.

In order to show it off I went with my basic bodice that I’ve been trying to perfect and a pleated skirt. The skirt is just 2 rectangles pleated. At the centre back I even had to cut down the centre of the rectangle to get an invisible zipper in. Not wanting to waste a single millimeter of this fabric I’ve used all the way to the selvedges, have tiny seam allowances and just let the fabric do all the work. The entire dress is lined in cotton voile to help make it more opaque.

I love it! It is beautiful to wear and the inky lines are so pretty. I think I can safely say this is not the last time I will be experimenting with creating my own fabric designs using Shibori techniques.

Pattern: my own bodice block, pleated rectangles for skirt
Fabric: 100% cotton shibori dyed
Changes for next time: increase size of bodice to allow for zero give in fabric as the bodice gets too tight.

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Sewing Adventures – Return of Simplicity 8048

Sometimes you like a dress so much you just have to make another one, so that’s what I did! You may remember the African Wax print fabric I made into Simplicity 8048?

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Well I love wearing it, the swishy skirt, the flatness around the waistline and the overall fit is super comfortable and flattering to wear. I had been given some fabric for my birthday from the lovely Dale whom I work with at Pitt Trading. We are there on Fridays together and love coming up with plans for all the fabric. She thought this fabric was perfect for me and so gave it to me as a gift. So sweet!

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It’s a polished cotton but so lightweight that it’s practically a lawn. Seriously it feels like a cloud it’s so fine. I wanted to be able to wear it to work so I added a cotton voile lining to the bodice and a cotton poplin lining to the skirt. The voile keeps the bodice super lightweight while the poplin gives the skirt just a touch more body and weight. Last time I added pockets, this time I omitted them as the fabric is so lightweight I was worried about draglines if I put anything in my pockets.

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I did a fully bagged out lining so no edges are showing and did a decent (but not brilliant) effort of putting in the invisible zip. I used a zip I had on hand so it’s actually a pale grey colour.

Now I cut this one out without reading my blog notes from before and so didn’t alter the top neckline. It “puffs” ever so slightly above the bust in the strap area. If I stand very straight and pull the bodice down to my waistline it fixes the puffing. My guess it it’s a touch tight over the bust and is pulling up to find the path of least resistance. It’s vaguely annoying but not annoying enough for me to pull apart the dress and remake the bodice. Hopefully a different bra will fix the issue? If not I’ve noted it for next time.

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Fabric: Polished cotton from Pitt Trading, given as a gift from Dale

Trims: invisible zip from the stash

Pattern: my own bodice plus Simplicity 8048 skirt

Alterations for next time: see if I can sort out that neckline bubbling issue.