Simplicity patterns – Measure Twice Cut Once

Posted on 19/06/2017 by Susan Goodwin — 2 Comments

Sewing Adventures – the weird Simplicity pants of mehness

Some days you make good things. Some days you make bad things and some days you make something that just makes you confused.
These pants confuse me.

It’s Simplicity 1377 elastic waist pants. Here are some photos of them being worn today in the wet and wind. I’ve got them paired with a RTW spray jacket and mum knitted beret and scarf.

I wanted some long pants to take hospital and to wear afterwards. Not having time for a toile I did what I usually do in those circumstances and measured the pattern pieces. I checked the length. Width at thigh, waist circumference and it was looking fine so I cut out. This is some stash fabric which I’ve used before to make The Englishman a jinbei from. It’s soft and has a decent drape.

The pants themselves were straight forward to put together and before I added the elastic I popped them on. They were short in the crotch like really short. You could see my underpants at the back and it barely covered the front of my underwear. I did some double checking and it has a sewn on waistband. So I cut out the waistband, added the elastic and attached it to the pants.

They still look weird. The back is really short and the front is weirdly long (yes I’ve double checked to make sure I hadn’t put them on the wrong way round). Having the sewn on waistband looks cheap and is bulky too, the legs are a decent width and the ankles don’t flap about while you are wearing them, it’s just the crotch is all wrong.
While wearing them it feels both like they are falling down and as if you are giving yourself a wedgie at the same time.

I haven’t had a chance to properly analyze the pattern but instinct says a grown on waistband would look better and solve some of the height issues. The crotch depth on front and back should be raised, the back crotch should be scooped out (especially for anyone who like me has a rounded bottom) and I’d look at where the crotch join is? It’s possible it’s too far forward which is causing the “falling” feeling? Not sure as some of the other fixes may take care of that before you need to get to that point.
All in all, not so successful but while they look and feel terrible they do the job. Filling the gap in my wardrobe till the post surgery swelling goes down and I can fit back into my regular clothes but I don’t think I would make again.

Pattern: Simplicity 1377

Alterations: too many to justify using the pattern again

Fabric: from the stash

Posted on 31/10/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 2 Comments

Sewing Adventures – Return of Simplicity 8048

Sometimes you like a dress so much you just have to make another one, so that’s what I did! You may remember the African Wax print fabric I made into Simplicity 8048?

Well I love wearing it, the swishy skirt, the flatness around the waistline and the overall fit is super comfortable and flattering to wear. I had been given some fabric for my birthday from the lovely Dale whom I work with at Pitt Trading. We are there on Fridays together and love coming up with plans for all the fabric. She thought this fabric was perfect for me and so gave it to me as a gift. So sweet!

It’s a polished cotton but so lightweight that it’s practically a lawn. Seriously it feels like a cloud it’s so fine. I wanted to be able to wear it to work so I added a cotton voile lining to the bodice and a cotton poplin lining to the skirt. The voile keeps the bodice super lightweight while the poplin gives the skirt just a touch more body and weight. Last time I added pockets, this time I omitted them as the fabric is so lightweight I was worried about draglines if I put anything in my pockets.

I did a fully bagged out lining so no edges are showing and did a decent (but not brilliant) effort of putting in the invisible zip. I used a zip I had on hand so it’s actually a pale grey colour.

Now I cut this one out without reading my blog notes from before and so didn’t alter the top neckline. It “puffs” ever so slightly above the bust in the strap area. If I stand very straight and pull the bodice down to my waistline it fixes the puffing. My guess it it’s a touch tight over the bust and is pulling up to find the path of least resistance. It’s vaguely annoying but not annoying enough for me to pull apart the dress and remake the bodice. Hopefully a different bra will fix the issue? If not I’ve noted it for next time.

Fabric: Polished cotton from Pitt Trading, given as a gift from Dale

Trims: invisible zip from the stash

Pattern: my own bodice plus Simplicity 8048 skirt

Alterations for next time: see if I can sort out that neckline bubbling issue.

Posted on 11/08/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 11 Comments

Sewing Adventures – African Wax Print and Simplicity 8048

African wax print is not a common sight in Australia. Occasionally you may see someone wearing it but I’d never seen it for sale anywhere. That is until I missed the train at Cabramatta and had 15 minutes to use up before the next train. Rather than wait in the rain, I dashed up the street to the closest fabric stores for a quick look.

They had some nice pieces but this one caught my eye. I asked the price and was sure she said $14, I was about to say no when I asked again and she said $4. 2.5m later I was running back to the train.
It’s a lightweight cotton lawn so a dense weave but very light. So I don’t think it’s real wax print as my impression is that is a much denser slightly heavier fabric?

The print repeat is huge so I wanted a style that didn’t cut into it too much. Simplicity 8048 was a contender as I really liked the dipped angle of the front skirt.

The angle is a separate piece that is inserted into a circle skirt. Pinning the panel straight onto the skirt pattern I eliminated the seams and made it one continuous pattern piece across the front.

Once again I used my own bodice block. I raised the neckline slightly to help balance out the oversize print but made no other alterations to the basic bodice. It’s not fitting perfect right now but I think a bit of winter pudginess has crept on and I’m hoping once that drops the fit will be ideal again.

Once the pattern matching was done (seriously that was the hardest part of the entire make). It went together in no time. Neck and armholes are finished with bias binding.

Because I cut the front skirt as one panel the side seam had some crazy grain line action happening. To help compensate for this I let it drop for a few days before hemming. It didn’t move at all which was very encouraging. I had planned to shorted the entire skirt length after letting it drop but I ended up liking the longer length so I kept it. The invisible zip went in with ease once gain.

I love this dress, the longer length feels swishy and the big bold print is so striking and fun.

Fabric: cotton lawn from Cabramatta. It comes in a cream/blue and khaki/pink combination also in case anyone else likes the print.

Dress Pattern: My own bodice block and skirt from Simplicity 8048

Alterations for next time: look at increasing the sway back adjustment on the block, and take 1cm wedge out of each side of CB neckline where zip is inserted.

Special thanks to my fellow Sydney Spoolettes for helping with the photos. We met up in Hyde Park and helped each other take blog photos.

Posted on 29/02/201629/02/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 6 Comments

Sewing Adventures – Simplicity 1873 insertion trim edition

Sydney has been hot, like hot hot and it’s unrelenting so even overnight it doesn’t cool down very much so it’s been an endless amount of feeling too warm. Which is kind of nice because yay summer and also kind of over it, would like to not constantly feel hot and sticky.

It was on one of these hot days that I was working at Pitt Trading and by the end of the day I declared it was far too hot to be wearing a skirt and a top. I purchased one of my favourite new fabrics that has only just arrived instore along with some insertion trim with the plan of making a dress. If you want the same fabric you can get it here or come instore.

Pressed for time and wanting a sure fire sewing win I went with Simplicity 1873 which I have made before with much success. Construction wise it was very much like what I’ve done before. Slight sway back adjustment, invisible zip at centre back, no linings or facings I’ve just used bias binding around the neck and armholes. I was pretty happy with my invisible zip.

The only big departure from previous editions was the addition of the insertion trim. I cut the skirt panels 5cm longer than I normally do, constructed the entire dress and then proceeded to measure 10cm up from the raw edge of the skirt. I cut along this line and overlocked the new hem of the skirt.

To place the insertion trim in, I stitched the edge of the trim just above the finished line of overlocking, turned it under and topstitched it down. Then taking the 10 cm circle I cut off, pressed it half with the iron reducing the height to 5cm, overlocked the top edge and pinned it to the lower edge of the trim.

Some slight fiddling with the seams helped it line up correctly as it was slightly larger in circumference than the insertion trim due to the nature of the flared panels of the skirt. Repeated the stitching, then topstitching and hey presto insertion trim and pretty hem.

I’m so happy with it as the insertion trim really lifts it out of the homemade arena and into a more fashion item. It’s certainly the type of garment that I’m aiming towards with my makes this year, more fashion less plain sewing.

Fabric: Polished cotton from Pitt Trading, insertion trim also from Pitt Trading who have one if not the biggest number of trims instore anywhere in Australia.

Dress Pattern: Cynthia Rowley by Simplicity 1873

Alterations: Added the insertion trim as explained, other alterations as per previous editions of this pattern, I cut the skirt width as per the pattern this time and didn’t add extra volume.

Posted on 02/11/201518/01/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 13 Comments

Sewing Adventures – Simplicity 1873 cotton sateen edition

For the month of November I’m trying to follow along with #BPSewvember on instagram. The idea of the beautiful Amanda from Bimble and Pimble was lots of fun last year, so I’m in for another round. Today’s theme is Like a BOSS. I thought it appropriate to talk about this dress which has THE BEST invisible zipper insertion of my entire sewing life (seriously it’s got to be all downhill from here this one is so perfect).

Pushed for time after procrastinating for too long I ended up cutting the dress Wednesday night, making most of it Thursday night, freaking out that it didn’t fit late Thursday night, brainstorming ideas on how to get it to fit Friday at work, trying it on with a different bra Friday night, rejoicing that it now fitted and then finishing up almost everything Friday night including the zipper of perfection that went in at about 10.30pm, flying out early on Saturday morning and finishing the hand stitching while sitting at our accommodation drinking tea about 2 hours before the wedding. Hectic, oh yeah! But totally worth it.

Here’s some photos on how it all went down.

Cutting out using the top floor stairwell (which does not have an overhead light just a window and the light was fading) as the fabric didn’t fit in our apartment and I needed to see flowers to avoid potential flower boob disaster.

Trying to not think about accidentally bumping my scissors off the fourth floor to land on the tiles below.

Adding in some pre made satin bias binding as I ran out of time for fully lining and I hate facings.

The zipper of perfection which I put in LIKE A BOSS. I use a regular zip foot not an invisible zip foot to insert. This was the first go no hand basting in place and very minimal pinning.

Hand stitching view.

Sneaking a photo with the Groom’s car before heading off to the wedding.

Laughing with the Englishman after the ceremony before the food.

The Cheese cake which made my dress feel too tight by the end of the night. But wow delicious!

Fabric: Digitally printed cotton sateen from Pitt Trading

Dress Pattern: Cynthia Rowley by Simplicity 1873

Alterations: Based on the last time I made this pattern I did a sway back adjustment. I had no time to test it though. So I took the risk and cut straight into my good fabric. The risk paid off and it worked. Despite zipper perfection and good back fitting I don’t have a single photo from the day of the back of my dress.

The fabric is so beautiful I decided to add some fullness to the skirt. Now this is already a VERY big skirt but I thought the weight of the sateen could hold it. The front and back panels were extended to the full width of the fabric but I kept the angled seams so it wasn’t just adding in a straight piece of fabric. The side panels had an additional 12cm per side added in. I sewed all panels of the skirt together and then on the larger pleats made them deeper. On this pattern as with many of the Cynthia Rowley styles, the pleats go one direction and then swap to the other direction. It makes for a very swishy feeling skirt and with the added width it made for a really beautiful feeling skirt.