Tag: Pitt Trading

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Sewing Adventures – Matching Rash vests

Due to an enormous backlog of finished projects to share, I’ve decided to dive right in and not adhere to strict chronological order. Mostly because if I don’t start now I never will and also because it doesn’t matter when they were made only that they were made! So let’s get to it!

A trip to Fiji (2023) is a pretty mind blowing thing to prepare for, not only is it not the normal type of holiday for us to go on it was also preceded with a super busy time period. Having now been on the holiday it was amazing, we loved it and would do again!


Being the water lover that I am I knew I’d be in as much as I could and thought a second long sleeve rash vest would help protect me from the sun. Using Jalie Valerie I quickly whipped one up from this gorgeous pink swim lycra from the stash (originally from Pitt Trading now The Makers Society) my only changes were to make the arms longer than I normally do and make the neck band slightly wider.

and yes hats and sunglasses in the water were very necessary for anyone wanting to avoid some sun. The water is very calm so it’s not like you are going to lose everything when a wave hits you or anything like that.

Sewing wise I did the entire of the seams using my overlocker and then hemmed the sleeves and body using my coverstitch machine, super speedy nice and secure.

In some of these photos I’m wearing my previously made Jalie Valerie in a white and blue floral lycra also from The Makers Society.


At the last minute the day before we flew I decided to make one for The Englishman in whatever I had on hand which was some navy swim lycra and some athletic lycra in a sharkskin type print for the side panels.


Am so glad I did because we practically lived in these things as we explored the waters around the resort. we had an absolutely wonderful time and we didn’t get sunburnt so winning all around.

Can also highly recommend reef shoes, these are a neoprene upper with a rubber base and it made climbing through rock pools or traversing sand littered with coral a breeze. A must for anyone who wants to explore and swim.

Pattern: Valerie from Jalie – made my sleeves longer and wider neck band for me (in a previous version I have blended the sizing from my bust size out to my waist and hip. I found doing this stops it from riding up while paddleboarding, this is now my base pattern I use), no changes for The Englishman

Fabric: embroidered cotton lawn and plain cotton lawn both from the stash originally from Pitt Trading

Changes: pattern changes as noted above

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Sewing Adventures – Tights

This year I’m taking on my stash, I’m using things up to make useful things. I have no interest in making things that are wasteful or making them with the aim to giving them to charity so it’s using with a purpose in order to get the stash down.

First up is a remnant of athletic Lycra from Pitt Trading, I think I had got it to make a swimsuit or maybe a rashie but then realised I could make a pair of 3/4 tights. I grabbed my self drafted tights pattern and got cutting.

I didn’t have enough fabric to cut the waistband with the greatest stretch going around  (I use the waistband from the Jalie Clara tights as I love how high it is) so I did some calculations and cut it on the opposite stretch. It makes it feel very firm so you have to be careful with your calculations or you feel very sausagey. Due to a scar on my torso I wear my waistbands very high to avoid irritating the area with the scar.


Using the 4 thread on the over locker I threw it all together with some swim elastic in the top waistband join. At this point I had to stop working as I was off to go dog sit for some friends so I threw the tights in to finish while I was there.

Working with what I had with me I used black thread to top stitch the top of the waistband (where I inserted some swim elastic). I used a 3 step zig zag so it sat as flat as possible. Hems we’re done with a regular zig zag.


While the yellow colour feels very uh yellow! I know these are going to get a tonne of wear for doing workouts on the roof and this week they’ve been great for dog walking.

Pattern: self drafted tights with Jalie Clara waistband (modified as I adjusted the size based on stretch and I changed the construction).

Fabric: from the stash, originally from athletic Lycra from Pitt Trading

Alterations: cut shorter leg to make allowances for the fact it was a remnant, cut waistband on the cross grain due to fabric useage.

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Sewing Adventures – Cashmerette Appleton dress

This post is so overdue in being written. One of those things that kept getting put on the backburner and then bumped and well you know how it goes. It’s time to share the Cashmerette Appleton dress I made as part of the Pitt Trading Summer Soiree (held all the way back in October 2018).

First let’s talk about the pattern. I used the copy shop version and ended up making the size 12. Mainly because it was going to be used on display and we had a size 12 dummy to be dressed. All over it went together really well. My only tiny problem was the fact I never read the instructions and spent a good 5 to 10 minutes trying to figure out how the ties actually worked? So aside from my oversight I was really impressed at how fast and easy it was.

I used my overlocker and overstitch machine and the actual sewing took maybe half an hour. Which is really speedy, great if you need a dress in a hurry.

Now for the fabric it’s the Vivid Jungle Knit from Pitt Trading.

I want this fabric in ALL the colours and ALL the prints. Sadly it only came in this print as Pitt Trading got it as part of their amazing way of getting designer fabrics. It’s a soft, stretchy viscose knit and the print is fabulous.

Combined with this pattern this surely has to be the most secret pyjamas outfit I have ever made.

Pattern: Cashmerette Appleton Dress

Fabric: Vivid Jungle Knit from Pitt Trading

Alterations: read the instructions next time

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Sewing Adventures – Modified Myosotis in blue and white with insertion lace

When I first made the Deer and Doe Myosotis I had no idea how much I would enjoy wearing it. I’ve made mine in a more relaxed fit and it is ridiculously comfortable. The two Liberty ones I made last year are in high wardrobe rotation.

So when the hot weather started to kick in before Christmas I had this idea to make a floaty barely there dress with tiny straps and no fuss that would be perfect for those days at home where it’s just so hot you can’t do anything and just spend the whole time drinking cold drinks and reading books.

This “Chia Blue” dense cotton lawn with embroidery and Japanese shibori style printed motifs from Pitt Trading was perfect for such a concept. So I didn’t have to worry about underwear colour I grabbed some cotton voile to line it with.

Then this gorgeous circular insertion lace came in at Pitt Trading and suddenly my idea morphed into something else and I found myself reaching for the Myosotis bodice and skirt.

The skirt is the longest length main skirt of the Myosotis and the ruffle is the width of the fabric just gathered in to fit. It’s possibly a little long but I ha thought of adding more rows of insertion so wanted some extra length so I could cut it and add the insertion without having to worry about adding and subtrcting seam allowances.

As it was I ended up only doing one row and now it sometimes feels slightly long but not enough to stop me wearing it. The insertion lace I cut where I wanted it to go, overlocked the raw edges of the fabric, turned it up and then stitched in the insertion. Doing it that way hides the tape along the side making it look more integrated into the garment and not like a trim plonked on top.

The bodice is the Myosotis without the collar, with the neckline modification I figured out the second time I made it to reduce the weird neck wrinkle I get. I also laid my own bodice block over it to reshape the shoulder and armhole to make it a more appropriate shape to being sleeveless.

The bodice is fully bagged out with the cotton voile and the skirt is lined to just above the insertion trim. I don’t actually need to undo the buttons I can pull it on over my head so I just stitched them on through all layers.

It’s light and breezy and perfect for hot weather.

Pattern: Myosotis by Deer and Doe

Fabric: Chia Blue purchased at Pitt Trading as was lining and insertion lace

Alterations: longer skirt, added insertion, no collar, re shaped shoulder and armhole for sleeveless, eliminated need for button holes and scooped out neck to fix neck wrinkle.

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Sewing Adventures – Penguin bags

I had 40cm of each of the pink and cream penguin fabric from Pitt Trading, after making a Wee Braw Bag for a friend and fellow workmate, I just knew I had to make up the extra penguins.

I had originally intended to make a super sized wee braw bag….and then forgot to sew the pocket on as I made the bag. Yep great work there Susan.

To rescue the pocket I turned it into a little pouch which you secure the top edge with a drawstring closure. Simple and effective.

These Japanese printed cottons which are like a very lightweight canvas are a dream to sew and perfect for bags like these. I’ll certainly be getting more next time Pitt Trading get some in.

I’ve been trying to cut and make things as soon as they come into the house this year, not even giving them a chance to hit the stash. Once I’ve made the main thing I then try and use the scraps up by making small bags or useful things. I think it’s been a great help in being more productive with less waste. Do you find that with your sewing?

Pattern: based on The Wee Braw Bag by Laura Zuckerkuss

Fabric: Penguins from Pitt Trading, drawcords and cotton lawn lining all from Pitt Trading

Alterations: not make the mistake of not adding the pocket properly next time!

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Sewing Adventures – Pre Printed Tights panels from Pitt Trading

After the success of my coloured Jalie tights I was on the lookout for some more fabric that was suitable for tights and Bam a huge selection arrived at Pitt Trading.

Pitt Trading buy excess fabric from many high end designers so you can access some incredible fabrics, these came from a high end Yoga design firm and they are lush. Thick but not too thick, don’t grin white when stretched and a nice amount of breathability and stretch.

Many of the panels come pre printed so it’s pretty much a case of cut out and go. Some of the panels were printed oddly so across the width you’d only get 3 right legs.

Both the pink pairs were like that. Now this is one of those times where being short rocks! I used my Nike run tights as a rough guide and by lining them up at the crotch and not the waistband I managed to cut a right leg panel into a left leg panel. It worked because I could shuffle it down so I was pretty excited, plus I had a cute catternweight to help. If you are longer limbed it would work just as well you just might not get full length ones?

On the black/pink spot ones I feel like the ankle could be a little narrower so I’ll probably skim them in a bit more.

Sewing wise I used the 4 thread overlocker for the inside leg and crotch seams, waistbands were overlocker together at the top edge while adding in some 6mm swimwear rubber. Turn the right way out and used the coverstitch to twin needle the top edge. The bottom edges were then placed together and overlocked straight onto the tights. I’ve kept my waistbands nice and high to hold everything in and as a result am getting no irritation around my scar or the areas where I have some residual issues from surgery.

The hems were then finished with the coverstitch machine.

A super fast super satisfying make and they spurred me into action and I’ve  been running again! Am taking it slow and relearning how to do some things now my body is operating with less muscles (literally) but overall it’s going pretty well.

Pattern: mostly from the pre printed tights with a little bit of help from a RTW pair

Fabric: Pre printed tights panels from Pitt Trading

Alterations: the cherry blossom ones are the best waistband, next time just copy everything I did on that one.

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Sewing Adventures – Jinbei shorts for The Englishman

These shorts have been made many times over the years and am sure will be made many times more. Other variations can be seen here,  here and here.


I’ve used the same pattern after rescuing the pattern from the fire we suffered December last year. The plastic sleeve the pattern was in, had gone black and bubbled but the pattern inside was ok after a good airing. Though somewhat dusty with ash.

The fabric was another survivor of the fire. Originally purchased at Pitt Trading and I think they have some more in stock?
It’s lovely, light and has the slightest of seersucker like wrinkles and yet the fabric is dense and not see through. A perfect summer fabric.


Apart from the usual construction I took the opportunity to keep practising with my coverstitch machine with the hems and the elastic all sewn in using it. I find it quite easy to use and the tips from Lauren at lladybird on how to tie off the ends to prevent the threads unraveling has been invaluable.

One happy Englishman, even if he had to be bribed with biscuits to get his photo taken.

Pattern: Jinbei
Fabric: from stash but purchased at Pitt Trading
Alterations: changed construction methods to use coverstitch more

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Sewing Adventures: Silk Floral Adrift Dress

There are days when working in a fabric store is every part the dream job most sewers envision it to be. When silk like this comes in from a top end designer its one of those days.

When the owners of Pitt Trading decide they want to team up with Papercut Patterns to use their patterns to showcase said amazing silk when then that’s a really good day.

I immediately put my hand up to make up the Adrift dress as I’ve always thought it so pretty and it looks like an easy to wear pattern. I read some reviews online and mostly everything was positive except a few people mentioned it’s a bit on the short side. Being a bit on the short side myself I didn’t think that would be a big problem but as always I started with measuring the pattern to choose my size.

After measuring up the pattern I decided to go with the longest skirt and ruffle lengths and add a bit of width into the back skirt panel. I also did a super sneaky change and swapped the skirt ruffle to finish on my right hand side and not my left hand side. My right is where my surgery was and I’m lopsided there and the ruffle adds a little bit more visual camo.

For the back skirt I added 4 cm at the fold line (so 8cm in total) and the same amount to the ruffle. It gave me a bit more space over my bottom and ensured the dress wouldn’t be tight as I wanted to maintain the loose silhouette.

I also eliminated the drawstring as I have to be slightly careful around my scar area. I sewed lingerie elastic onto the seam allowance of the waist join stretching it as I went to create the gathering. It worked well and provided a nice soft finish.

The final addition was to block the neckline in a little. The original neckline is more boatneck width and that’s fine in a cotton on me but in the silk I wanted it a little closer. Instead of using the facings provided the neckline was finished with a fine satin bias binding.

The silk is a dream to sew, not too shifty took a nice Sharps needle well and even cutting out it didn’t move about so that was good. The print is so beautiful and oversize that I didn’t bother with any pattern matching apart from placing the front bodice panel to get the maximum amount of pink on it.

My new Bernina overlocker does a really nice roll hem so I finished the ruffles on the skirt and sleeves with that. It looks nice and neat and not like it was “just” overlooked. It’s a good way of finishing a hem that may have proven tricky using other methods.

Wearing wise I’m loving the change of silhouette, it’s soft yet feminine, it feels a little short to me but I’m getting used to that and I don’t feel like I’m flashing people or anything like that. Silk is dreamy against the skin (it’s not lined) and I wore it out for my birthday to have a degustation menu and the elastic waist was in it’s element!

Pattern: Adrift dress by Papercut Patterns. Generously provided by them in order to make the samples.

Fabric: Printed silk from Pitt Trading. Generously provided by them in order to make the samples.

Alterations: added 4cm to CB skirt fold, swapped skirt ruffle closure to other side, blocked in neckline, elastic waist

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Sewing Adventures – Grainline Yates Coat

This fabric in all it’s buttery soft lushness arrived at Pitt Trading last year as one of the amazing pieces they get from Designers. It’s the kind of fabric that you just never see for sale in the sewing sphere unless you go somewhere like Pitt Trading which has access to incredible designers and their fabrics.

A double sided faux suede was always meant to be for a special project. Initially I had intended it for a Deer and Doe Lupin Jacket but I lost the paper pattern in the fire.

So this time round I wanted something that could utilise the double sided nature of the fabric. I’d seen a picture on Pinterest of a colour blocked coat that reminded me of the Grainline Studio Yates and thats when I decided to grab the pattern and go for it.

Once I had the pattern I did some adjustments before I got started. I shortened the coat, I did this above and below the horizontal seam. Because I’m only 5 foot tall I wanted to maintain the proportions of the style but ensure that the coat finished above the hemline of my dresses. This would prevent my dresses being tangled with my coat, and me either flashing my knickers or looking like a flasher.

I didn’t want any topstitching as the coat would not be lined in any way and the edges would be raw cut. So I modified the pocket to have a folded edge instead of a seam.

The arm length was also shortened though truthfully I should have shortened it even more and will no doubt end up cutting the ends of the sleeves shorter.

Cutting the pattern out was interesting as I couldn’t use pins, then I remembered I had a chalk tracing wheel from Prym and once I started using that it was brilliant. Left a chalk mark but no other marks so just perfect for the job.

Altering the pattern didn’t take too long but I felt like I spent about a day doing prep work on the coat. This meant once I was cut and started to sew the whole thing came together in under 2 hours so it was prep time well spent.

Suede is notorious for being a bit shifty to sew, to help me out I used these leather needles from Prym. They were fantastic and I didn’t have a single issue with any of the stitching for the whole coat.

When it came to the actual sewing it was all very straight forward. The other 2 places I had to do some differening techniques was the sleeve. I used a gathering stitch to pre curve the sleeve head like you would if you were easing it in. But I had to roll the sleeve head under in order to get it to curve enough. Am kicking myself for not taking more photos of this step as the sleeve head looked way over manipulated but as it was attached the pressure of the machine foot pushed it down and the sleeve went in with no problems. Some pegs were used to help hold things together on their way to the machine.

 

The second area of change was the collar, as it was going to be raw cut and only one layer the upper collar is attached upside down so the seam allowance is on the outside of the garment. This means I have a clean finish neckline and as the collar lies flat over the seam you’ll never see it from the outside. The way the collar edges roll bugs me a little so am considering hand stitching them in place with a few tiny invisible stitches?

I finished it off with a large oversize snap from Prym in a grey colour which blends in not too bad, am considering adding another snap further up to help hold in closed in cold weather. Without lining or interfacing it takes on a slouchy more relaxed silhouette which I’m quite enjoying.

Pattern: Yates Coat from Grainline Studios

Fabric: From stash purchased from Pitt Trading 2017, trims and sewing accessories from Prym

Changes: shortened body length and arm length, changed pocket and collar construction. For next time shorten arms further.