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Sewing Adventures – Simplicity 1652 and 1873 mashup

I fell in love with the texture and heft of this fabric from Pitt Trading.

fabric

It’s wonderfully thick and strong, verging on canvas like. However I was completely perplexed as to what to make from it? I knew I wanted a dress but the fabric isn’t flowing or likely to gather well?

After some time, I decided to use the bodice from Simplicity 1652

1652

mixed with skirt from Simplicity 1873.

1873

Construction wise it was really straight forward. I didn’t use any lining as it would make the dress too hot.  Here it is at work in the Pitt Trading store.

simplicity 1652 plus 1873

The internal neckline and back cut out are all finished with bias binding. I didn’t have enough of the one colour so it’s a bit of a mish mash of patterns which I really like!

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The invisible zip went in like a dream. Am so glad I have my technique figured out for those now it makes everything easier when it comes to finishing up a dress.

invisible zip

I was hoping to get a back shot of the dress today but it is all grey and rainy. So I popped it on my mannequin so you could see the back cut out. I’m bigger than my mannequin so the dress doesn’t fit her but I suspect that  gape at the zip occurs on me too and that’s one of the sections I’d pinch out next time I make this one.

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Fabric: pink and black cotton from Pitt Trading

Dress Pattern: Simplicity Amazing Fit 1652 and Cynthia Rowley by Simplicity 1873

Alterations:  mixed the 2 patterns together. Next time reduce the back width at the top of the zip by 1cm total and the top of the cut outs by 2cm total.

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Sewing Adventures – Simplicity 1873 cotton sateen edition

1873_header

For the month of November I’m trying to follow along with #BPSewvember on instagram. The idea of the beautiful Amanda from Bimble and Pimble was lots of fun last year, so I’m in for another round. Today’s theme is Like a BOSS. I thought it appropriate to talk about this dress which has THE BEST invisible zipper insertion of my entire sewing life (seriously it’s got to be all downhill from here this one is so perfect).

Pushed for time after procrastinating for too long I ended up cutting the dress Wednesday night, making most of it Thursday night, freaking out that it didn’t fit late Thursday night, brainstorming ideas on how to get it to fit Friday at work, trying it on with a different bra Friday night, rejoicing that it now fitted and then finishing up almost everything Friday night including the zipper of perfection that went in at about 10.30pm, flying out early on Saturday morning and finishing the hand stitching while sitting at our accommodation drinking tea about 2 hours before the wedding. Hectic, oh yeah! But totally worth it.

Here’s some photos on how it all went down.

Cutting out using the top floor stairwell (which does not have an overhead light just a window and the light was fading) as the fabric didn’t fit in our apartment and I needed to see flowers to avoid potential flower boob disaster.

top of stairs Trying to not think about accidentally bumping my scissors off the fourth floor to land on the tiles below.

stairwellAdding in some pre made satin bias binding as I ran out of time for fully lining and I hate facings.

IMG_6730The zipper of perfection which I put in LIKE A BOSS. I use a regular zip foot not an invisible zip foot to insert. This was the first go no hand basting in place and very minimal pinning.

zip of perfectionHand stitching view.

handsewingviewSneaking a photo with the Groom’s car before heading off to the wedding.

the dress

Laughing with the Englishman after the ceremony before the food.

with the Englishman

The Cheese cake which made my dress feel too tight by the end of the night. But wow delicious!

cheesecake

Fabric: Digitally printed cotton sateen from Pitt Trading

Dress Pattern: Cynthia Rowley by Simplicity 1873

Alterations:  Based on the last time I made this pattern I did a sway back adjustment. I had no time to test it though. So I took the risk and cut straight into my good fabric. The risk paid off and it worked. Despite zipper perfection and good back fitting I don’t have a single photo from the day of the back of my dress.

The fabric is so beautiful I decided to add some fullness to the skirt. Now this is already a VERY big skirt but I thought the weight of the sateen could hold it. The front and back panels were extended to the full width of the fabric but I kept the angled seams so it wasn’t just adding in a straight piece of fabric. The side panels had an additional 12cm per side added in. I sewed all panels of the skirt together and then on the larger pleats made them deeper. On this pattern as with many of the Cynthia Rowley styles, the pleats go one direction and then swap to the other direction. It makes for a very swishy feeling skirt and with the added width it made for a really beautiful feeling skirt.