Simplicity 1873 – Measure Twice Cut Once

Posted on 29/03/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 2 Comments

Sewing Adventures – Simplicity 1652 and 1873 mashup

I fell in love with the texture and heft of this fabric from Pitt Trading.

It’s wonderfully thick and strong, verging on canvas like. However I was completely perplexed as to what to make from it? I knew I wanted a dress but the fabric isn’t flowing or likely to gather well?

After some time, I decided to use the bodice from Simplicity 1652

mixed with skirt from Simplicity 1873.

Construction wise it was really straight forward. I didn’t use any lining as it would make the dress too hot. Here it is at work in the Pitt Trading store.

The internal neckline and back cut out are all finished with bias binding. I didn’t have enough of the one colour so it’s a bit of a mish mash of patterns which I really like!

The invisible zip went in like a dream. Am so glad I have my technique figured out for those now it makes everything easier when it comes to finishing up a dress.

I was hoping to get a back shot of the dress today but it is all grey and rainy. So I popped it on my mannequin so you could see the back cut out. I’m bigger than my mannequin so the dress doesn’t fit her but I suspect that gape at the zip occurs on me too and that’s one of the sections I’d pinch out next time I make this one.

Fabric: pink and black cotton from Pitt Trading

Dress Pattern: Simplicity Amazing Fit 1652 and Cynthia Rowley by Simplicity 1873

Alterations: mixed the 2 patterns together. Next time reduce the back width at the top of the zip by 1cm total and the top of the cut outs by 2cm total.

Posted on 29/02/201629/02/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 6 Comments

Sewing Adventures – Simplicity 1873 insertion trim edition

Sydney has been hot, like hot hot and it’s unrelenting so even overnight it doesn’t cool down very much so it’s been an endless amount of feeling too warm. Which is kind of nice because yay summer and also kind of over it, would like to not constantly feel hot and sticky.

It was on one of these hot days that I was working at Pitt Trading and by the end of the day I declared it was far too hot to be wearing a skirt and a top. I purchased one of my favourite new fabrics that has only just arrived instore along with some insertion trim with the plan of making a dress. If you want the same fabric you can get it here or come instore.

Pressed for time and wanting a sure fire sewing win I went with Simplicity 1873 which I have made before with much success. Construction wise it was very much like what I’ve done before. Slight sway back adjustment, invisible zip at centre back, no linings or facings I’ve just used bias binding around the neck and armholes. I was pretty happy with my invisible zip.

The only big departure from previous editions was the addition of the insertion trim. I cut the skirt panels 5cm longer than I normally do, constructed the entire dress and then proceeded to measure 10cm up from the raw edge of the skirt. I cut along this line and overlocked the new hem of the skirt.

To place the insertion trim in, I stitched the edge of the trim just above the finished line of overlocking, turned it under and topstitched it down. Then taking the 10 cm circle I cut off, pressed it half with the iron reducing the height to 5cm, overlocked the top edge and pinned it to the lower edge of the trim.

Some slight fiddling with the seams helped it line up correctly as it was slightly larger in circumference than the insertion trim due to the nature of the flared panels of the skirt. Repeated the stitching, then topstitching and hey presto insertion trim and pretty hem.

I’m so happy with it as the insertion trim really lifts it out of the homemade arena and into a more fashion item. It’s certainly the type of garment that I’m aiming towards with my makes this year, more fashion less plain sewing.

Fabric: Polished cotton from Pitt Trading, insertion trim also from Pitt Trading who have one if not the biggest number of trims instore anywhere in Australia.

Dress Pattern: Cynthia Rowley by Simplicity 1873

Alterations: Added the insertion trim as explained, other alterations as per previous editions of this pattern, I cut the skirt width as per the pattern this time and didn’t add extra volume.

Posted on 02/11/201518/01/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 13 Comments

Sewing Adventures – Simplicity 1873 cotton sateen edition

For the month of November I’m trying to follow along with #BPSewvember on instagram. The idea of the beautiful Amanda from Bimble and Pimble was lots of fun last year, so I’m in for another round. Today’s theme is Like a BOSS. I thought it appropriate to talk about this dress which has THE BEST invisible zipper insertion of my entire sewing life (seriously it’s got to be all downhill from here this one is so perfect).

Pushed for time after procrastinating for too long I ended up cutting the dress Wednesday night, making most of it Thursday night, freaking out that it didn’t fit late Thursday night, brainstorming ideas on how to get it to fit Friday at work, trying it on with a different bra Friday night, rejoicing that it now fitted and then finishing up almost everything Friday night including the zipper of perfection that went in at about 10.30pm, flying out early on Saturday morning and finishing the hand stitching while sitting at our accommodation drinking tea about 2 hours before the wedding. Hectic, oh yeah! But totally worth it.

Here’s some photos on how it all went down.

Cutting out using the top floor stairwell (which does not have an overhead light just a window and the light was fading) as the fabric didn’t fit in our apartment and I needed to see flowers to avoid potential flower boob disaster.

Trying to not think about accidentally bumping my scissors off the fourth floor to land on the tiles below.

Adding in some pre made satin bias binding as I ran out of time for fully lining and I hate facings.

The zipper of perfection which I put in LIKE A BOSS. I use a regular zip foot not an invisible zip foot to insert. This was the first go no hand basting in place and very minimal pinning.

Hand stitching view.

Sneaking a photo with the Groom’s car before heading off to the wedding.

Laughing with the Englishman after the ceremony before the food.

The Cheese cake which made my dress feel too tight by the end of the night. But wow delicious!

Fabric: Digitally printed cotton sateen from Pitt Trading

Dress Pattern: Cynthia Rowley by Simplicity 1873

Alterations: Based on the last time I made this pattern I did a sway back adjustment. I had no time to test it though. So I took the risk and cut straight into my good fabric. The risk paid off and it worked. Despite zipper perfection and good back fitting I don’t have a single photo from the day of the back of my dress.

The fabric is so beautiful I decided to add some fullness to the skirt. Now this is already a VERY big skirt but I thought the weight of the sateen could hold it. The front and back panels were extended to the full width of the fabric but I kept the angled seams so it wasn’t just adding in a straight piece of fabric. The side panels had an additional 12cm per side added in. I sewed all panels of the skirt together and then on the larger pleats made them deeper. On this pattern as with many of the Cynthia Rowley styles, the pleats go one direction and then swap to the other direction. It makes for a very swishy feeling skirt and with the added width it made for a really beautiful feeling skirt.