Lingerie – Page 8 – Measure Twice Cut Once

Posted on 04/06/201418/01/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 2 Comments

Everyone Deserves Pretty Knickers – Sewalong Part 3

Ready to finish off your knickers? It’s so great that it is such a fast project and we can finish up so quickly.

By now you should have your knickers and your elastic.

Take your waist elastic, fold in half and half again. Put a pin at each of the quarters.

Starting from the side seam pin the elastic on the inside of the waist at side seam, centre front, side seam, centre back and the last one will go to the side seam but we don’t want to pin that one just yet.

Attach your elastic by overlocking/serging or zig zagging in place. You will need to stretch the elastic as you stitch it down. I’m going to use my overlocker because it’s all set up, but you don’t need to use one for this step. You’ll see my elastic is quite close to the edge but not right on the edge. When it is stretched it gets closer to the edge but a little buffer between edge and elastic also helps it glide through the overlocker a little easier.

Stitch and pull the elastic to one pin, once you reach the pin then move it, stretch the elastic to the next pin and stitch down. By going quarter by quarter it’s not only easier it means an even distribution of gathers too.Keep going until you reach the last pin, the end of the elastic should now be matched to the side seam you started at. Stretch the elastic for the final quarter and stitch in place.

Your waist should now have elastic attached all the way around.

If you are using the 6mm elastic, follow the same technique for both leg openings.

To show how the lingerie elastic can be used I will be using it on the leg openings. You can use all 6mm or all lingerie elastic or a combination, it’s entirely up to you.

Overlock/serge or zig zag the raw edge of leg openings. Making sure you have caught in the edge of the gusset at you finish the edges.

Using an iron press 6mm – 1cm hem to the inside of the knickers (this photo makes them look the oddest shape! it’s just the photo though).

Taking your elastic, divide it into quarters as shown previously. Then divide the leg opening into quarters. Use a pin to mark each quarter.

Starting from side seam pin elastic to inside of hem edge with scallop edge pointing out.

Using 3 step zig or any stitch which allows stretch eg twin needle or zig zag top stitch the elastic in place. You will need to pull the elastic to stretch it as it is going on. Using the pins and quarters of the garment it will help get the stretch even around the entire leg opening.

Repeat for other leg opening.

Fold over the elastic at waistband to the inside of the knickers. Topstitch it in place using 3 step zig zag, twin needle or zig zag.

and you are all done. You’ve made knickers! yay!

How exciting you can now make your own knickers! All of these photos show The Charlotte Knickers but the same techniques can cover The Georgiana Knickers and The Lydia Knickers.

Once you have the techniques of the gusset and elastic sorted out you can try different fabrics and a range of different trims and accessories. Later in the week we will be talking more about how to add your design flair to your knickers, so be sure to check back for that.

Tomorrow we will be kicking off our second sewalong and this one is for The Jane Knickers. If you don’t already have a pattern ready to go, Kollabora is having a sale on The Jane Knickers so pop across and pick one up and I’ll see you back here tomorrow for more sewing.

Don’t forget to tag all your Instagram and tweets with #everyonedeservesprettyknickers so I can see all your wonderful creations

Posted on 03/06/201418/01/2016 by Susan Goodwin — Leave a comment

Everyone Deserves Pretty Knickers – Sewalong Part 2

I do hope everyone has been enjoying “Everyone Deserves Pretty Knickers” week. It’s so fun already and we have so much more to come. Don’t forget to tag your in progress work with #everyonedeservesprettyknickers if you are sharing on instagram or twitter so we can see your beautiful makes.

Yesterday we cut out our knickers and added the gusset. So now your knickers should look like this.

Now it’s time to sew the side seams. With right sides together match at the side seams and pin in place.

Using a straight stitch sew a 1cm seam.

Finish raw edge using overlocker/serger or zig zag stitch.

Your knickers should now look much more knicker shaped.

A few people have emailed saying “don’t go to elastic yet! I haven’t found what I need”. So here is a bit about types of elastic that is suitable.

Left to right

6mm regular elastic- super easy to find and possible the cheapest option.

10mm wide knicker elastic. It has a scallop edge and one side is lovely and soft for next to your skin.

Scallop edge elastic, bigger decorative edge and smaller amount of elastic to topstitch on. Some of the trims can look like this but lack any stretch so check the stretch before buying.

Measure the waist circumference, ideally your elastic length should be 2/3rds the full circumference. Before you cut, wrap the elastic around you and see if the 2/3rd measurement suits you. If you would like it roomier than go for a longer length of elastic. If you are unsure stick with the 2/3rds measurement.

Measure the leg circumference, ideally your elastic length should be 2/3rds the full circumference. Before you cut, wrap the elastic around you and see if the 2/3rd measurement suits you. If you would like it roomier than go for a longer length of elastic. If you are unsure stick with the 2/3rds measurement.

To allow those who haven’t yet found the right elastic one extra day we will leave it there, and tomorrow we will cover attaching the elastic and top stitching it down.

If you have any questions feel free to pop them in the comments so I can help you out.

Posted on 02/06/201418/01/2016 by Susan Goodwin — Leave a comment

Everyone Deserves Pretty Knickers – Seawalong Part 1

The start of the first sewalong will be for The Charlotte Knickers but the same construction method applies to The Georgiana Knickers and The Lydia Knickers so you can choose the style you like the most to follow along with.

Fabric choices are fairly varied for the knickers which is great as it means you can go as fancy as you want and it’s brilliant for stash busting too. Look for lightweight cottons like voile, cambric or lawn. Quilting cottons and dress cottons are very nice too. Lightweight silks and satins are also lovely and have the added slinky feel to them.

Avoid anything that doesn’t have a good bias stretch to it, is too bulky (like denim or canvas) and if in doubt make a test version before using up your best fabric.

First up cutting on the bias. Here you want to ensure your grainline is at 45 degrees to your selvedge. It gives the woven fabric a nice bit of stretch to it which I find makes for a much more comfy pair of knickers.

I’m very committed (ahem trying) to my stash busting this year so here is some leftovers that is going to be perfect for knickers.

Iron your fabric and lay it out, if you have an inspector kitty get them to check your work before moving on to the next step (note: despite the pissed off look she is not unhappy with my work merely reminding me it is getting very close to food service time and that I’d better hurry up with these photos).

From the selvedge fold over your fabric ensuring your selvedge edge is now at a 90 degree angle to where it started. And arrange your patterns for cutting.

In this photo the top of the the front and back pattern pieces have been placed together. This is the most fabric efficient way to cut out your knickers and you can see the front pattern piece has been flipped over to ensure that both pattern pieces can fit in a small amount of fabric.

For a directional print, arrange your patterns so the top of the front and the top of the back are in the same direction. We had to fold the fabric over more to use extra fabric to cut the patterns this way

I hope that all makes sense for cutting on the bias? For an idea on how much fabric you need these pattern pieces are cut out to the size 18 and the fabric is 112cm wide

For the gusset you only need a small amount of cotton jersey. Try and use 100% cotton as it’s just a bit nicer to wear than any of the blends. If you are raiding the stash for your make and don’t have a knit, try cutting up an old t-shirt. They are great for recycling into gussets.

Now that you are done cutting we will move onto construction

Right side – the face, front or outside of the fabric

Wrong side – the interior, inside, back of the fabric

Step 1 – Front, back and gusset all right side up.

Step 2 – Gusset right side up.

Step 3 – Gusset right side up with front edge finished. I’ve overlocked it, you could overlock/serge, zig zag or turn under and straight stitch a hem.

Step 4 – Front panel, right side up.

Front panel with back panel placed on top. The right sides have been matched together so the photo shows the wrong side of the back panel facing up.

From the photo above, we have now added the gusset with the right side matched to the wrong side of the back panel. Photograph shows the wrong side facing up of the gusset.

Step 5 – pin at crotch seam. This seam is a bit tricky as the 2 woven fabrics have opposing curves. It won’t sit flat until it is stitched together. I pin at the centre and then one on either end. It will be bubbly looking but it’s meant to be so don’t worry.

Step 6 – 1cm seam allowance, straight stitch seam. Due to the bubbliness of the seam when you pinned it. As you feed it through the machine it can be helpful to put ever so slight an amount of tension onto the woven fabric by very gently pulling it as you feed it through the machine. This is ever so slight but it just allows you to feed the seam through and achieve a flat seam.

Step 7 – finish raw edge of seam, again I have overlocked but you could overlock/serge the edge or zig zag.

Step 8 – place seam flat and press. Photo now shows the wrong side of both front and back panels but the right side up of the gusset.

That’s as far as we are going to go today, come back tomorrow to join in the next step of the sewalong. If you have any questions about what we have gone through so far just pop them into the comments so I can help you out.

Posted on 01/06/201418/01/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 2 Comments

Everyone Deserves Pretty Knickers – Inspiration

One of the reasons (and there many) that I like making knickers is that I get to choose my own style.

The shape that suits me, the fabrics that I like, trims, ribbons it’s all my choice. My version of pretty may not be the same as yours and that is wonderful. It’s down to you to choose what you want because you get to make it.

If however you are stuck for inspiration, I’ve been doing some research for you. For research like this Pinterest is my weapon of choice as it’s so easy to gather the information and draw from a wide amount of source material.

This lingerie board covers a wide range of styles in a variety of fabrics. I’ve also included bras, cami’s and even some cover ups in here as well. I find it helps to envision and entire wardrobe of beautiful pieces to really get inspired.

Take a look at the shapes of the knickers to see which ones you like. If you regularly wear a full coverage knicker you could be a bit daring and go for a skimpy or even bikini style? Or if you are used to a tiny style perhaps something like The Jane Knicker might be a welcome change?

Once you’ve decided on the shape of your preferred knicker, start looking at fabrics and trims. A Swiss dot paired with a satin ribbon. A floral woven with a lace trim. Raid your entire fabric stash to find all the trims and fabrics you’ve been setting aside for a special occasion.

If you are using a Measure Twice Cut Once pattern then there are individual boards set up for each style showing all the versions that have been made so far. Sometimes it’s easier to see a version so you can see if yours will work?

The Charlotte Knickers

The Georgiana Knickers

Gather together your fabrics and trims and get ready for our first sew along starting tomorrow.

images via Anthropologie, BHLDN

Posted on 31/05/201418/01/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 7 Comments

Everyone Deserves Pretty Knickers week is here!

I cannot say just how excited I am to be kicking off Everyone deserves pretty knickers week. It’s going to be so exciting!

Honestly sewing your own knickers leaves you with this amazing feeling of accomplishment and triumph and I want everyone to be able to experience that.

Over the week we will be covering 2 sewalongs, inspiration and design.

The first sewalong will be for The Charlotte Knickers but the same construction method applies to The Georgiana Knickers and The Lydia Knickers so you can choose the style that suits you best.

The second sewalong will be for The Jane Knickers. These are a super sweet knicker than can be worn as pyjamas or for lounging about in hot weather.

Sunday – Inspiration

Monday – Sew along 1 – Bias cutting and gusset construction

Tuesday – Sew along 1 – side seams and attaching elastic

Wednesday – Sew along 1 – top stitch elastic

Thursday – Sew along 2 – cutting and crotch construction

Friday – Sew along 2 – yoke, hem and elastic

Saturday – Design

Some other fun things will also be happening during the week so keep checking back in. If you use bloglovin you can follow us using the button in the sidebar.

Be sure to use the hashtag #everyonedeservesprettyknickers on all your makes for the week.

Cut and paste the code below to add the pretty knicker lady to the sidebar of your blog

<a href="http://www.measuretwicecutonce.com.au/2014/04/everyone-deserves-pretty-knickers/"><img src="http://www.measuretwicecutonce.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/knickers-website-button-190.jpg"/></a>

Posted on 01/05/201419/01/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 16 Comments

Elastic Suppliers for Knicker making

UPDATE: Knicker elastic and bra kits are now available in our webstore! Pop on over to take a look.

I’ve been scouring the web for elastic suppliers for the upcoming Everyone deserves Pretty Knickers week.

Now unless I’ve noted it, I have not personally tried all these suppliers. If anyone has had any interaction with any of them it would be great if you added in the comments so everyone can know who is reliable and offers good service. If anyone knows of anymore please share them, I’ll update the lists as we go along.

Ok here we go

In Sydney and Australia

I have found underwear elastic in white, black and nude at Spotlight stores. They occasionally have other colours but make sure you are buying an elastic, not a trim. They have a trim nearly identical to lingerie elastic except it has almost no stretch? very odd.

EM Greenfields (aka Greenfields or Greenies) in Sydney has a variety of elastics, it is open to the public but you will need to purchase an entire roll as they don’t cut trims. Also only open weekdays.

My super coloured lingerie elastic as seen here was found out at Cabramatta for the bargain price of 20c to 50c a metre! Don’t be afraid to buy the bright stuff as only a tiny sliver shows on the outside of the garment. Plus it’s knickers, have some fun!

Around the web

Minerva Crafts – wide selection of elastic, on the site is a soft backed narrow elastic, no fancy scallops along the top but would still be nice. Plenty of the regular 6mm elastic and stretch laces

eBay – I found a whole bunch of places on eBay selling elastic. Some are small stores which use eBay as their webstore, others look direct from China. Some have some really great looking stuff so it would be a good place to take a look at.

Etsy

Peak Bloom – suppliers of mostly fold over elastic, some stretch lace. I follow these guys on instagram but am yet to order from them, mostly because I can’t make up my mind on which of their amazing patterns to get!

Elastic by the Yard – plenty of fold over elastics here as well as some skinny elastic in fun colours.

Fabric Depo – decent range of lingerie elastic (the scalloped top style), also have a physical store for those in California

Swoon Party Shop – vintage lingerie elastic and metallic ric rac (hey I know it’s not knicker specific but it’s metallic ric rac!)

YYCraft – plenty of fold over elastic and some lingerie elastic

Mrs DePew – vintage lingerie patterns and supplies

DIY supplies and kits – fold over elastic and even some double edge frill elastic!

If anyone knows of anymore places either online or across the world, let me know, I can add them in so everyone can source what they need.

Posted on 30/04/201418/01/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 4 Comments

What you need to make some Knickers

I am so happy with the response to our “Everyone deserves Pretty Knickers” challenge. It’s so exciting to think that everyone will soon have pretty knickers that they made themselves.

To help you get ready for the big week, here is a run down of all the Measure Twice Cut Once patterns and what you need for each one. This way you can raid your stash for your supplies or head on out to buy what you need, am sure you can all stand the drudgery of more fabric shopping, lol.

The Charlotte Knickers

The Georgiana Knickers

Fabric: Cotton wovens such as voile, cambric, lawn, quilting cottons. Also silks and satins.
Gusset: Cotton Jersey
Unsuitable for fabrics with bulk or stiffness such as denim or cord.
Trim: Thread, 6mm width elastic (does not need to be lingerie elastic). This is photographed with a rolled hem, it can be made like that or it can be turned under and top stitched like The Charlotte Knickers. So even without an overlocker/serger you can create this style.

The Jane Knickers

Fabric: Cotton wovens such as voile, cambric, lawn, quilting cottons. Also silks and satins.
Unsuitable for fabrics with bulk or stiffness such as denim or cord.
Trim: Thread, 6mm width elastic (does not need to be lingerie elastic). The top edge does not need to be lingerie elastic, but it looks really cute if you can use it. This is a great one to practice or learn using how to stretch the lingerie elastic while top stitching and still keep the decorative edge peaking up above the top of the fold.

The Mary Knickers

Fabric: Knits such as jerseys, cotton lycra/spandex, super lightweight double knits. Highly recommended to have a high cotton content and lycra/spandex content is nice but not essential.
Gusset: Cotton Jersey
Unsuitable for fabrics woven fabrics.
Trims: 6mm width elastic (does not need to be lingerie elastic), thread

The Lizzie Knickers

Fabric: Cotton wovens such as voile, cambric, lawn, quilting cottons, silks and satins.
Gusset: Cotton Jersey
Unsuitable for fabrics with high degree of stretch, bulk or stiffness such as swim lycra, denim or cord.
Trims: Thread, 6mm width elastic (does not need to be lingerie elastic). Due to the elastic side “strings” on this style a nice soft elastic or a proper lingerie elastic certainly makes it a lot more comfortable. See if you can source some if this is your preferred style?

The Lydia Knickers

Tomorrow we will be covering suppliers of elastic and we have plenty more posts coming up on how you can create knickers to suit your style. Start gathering up your supplies and don’t forget to pop your name down on the announcement post, and grab a sidebar button so we can keep an eye out for your beautiful makes.

Posted on 29/04/201418/01/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 23 Comments

Everyone deserves Pretty Knickers

Everywhere I look I’m seeing sewers from all over the world making knickers and bras and all kinds of lovely underthings. In the comments on all these lovely creations are so many sewists who say they want to try but they think it’s too hard or that they don’t have the right machinery or fabrics or trims or a myriad of other problems.

Knickers are not hard and they don’t take any fancy kind of machinery. You can make them using a regular machine with a straight stitch and a zig zag using normal elastic. So in the spirit of encouragement, I’m announcing Everyone deserves Pretty Knickers Week

Throughout the whole week we will be encouraging sewers to take the plunge and just try making one pair of knickers. Any style, any fabric any pattern that you like. Make what will suit you and what you want. It’s a few weeks away so you have some time to look around, choose a style and a pattern and find some fabric.

So if you’d like to take the challenge, add your name to the comments here and grab a button for your blog. Follow us on instagram to see as many makes as we can find to regram, tag your makes with #everyonedeservesprettyknickers.

I cannot wait to see what you all create.

Cut and paste the code below to add the pretty knicker lady to the sidebar of your blog

We will be featuring round ups of supplies over the next few weeks to help you find everything you need for the week, so keep checking back for more information.

Posted on 28/04/201419/01/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 1 Comment

Sewing Adventures – The Jane Knickers

I decided to add something a little cuter to my sleepwear so whipped up these three versions of The Jane Knickers.

The green checked looked ok but was a little flat so I added a decorative topstitch to the yoke in a magenta thread to match the magenta lingerie elastic I was using for the waistband. You’ll see on all three versions I have created pleats in the front panels where it joins to the yoke. On the pattern it says to gather these pieces but I wanted to show that you can vary them up by pleating as well.

The pale check is super sweet vintage fabric that I actually made a top in (that is waiting to be blogged). I used the remainder to cut out The Jane Knickers. I find it a little pale so I like to add a touch of colour on the waist elastic. This elastic is a folded elastic that has a decorative bobble edge. It’s one of those trims that I keep hanging on to and yet never get around to actually using. So I bit the bullet and used it here. The folded elastic works fine instead of the lingerie elastic. Just be careful to check the stretch. You’ll notice these ones look a little bigger than the others? they are the same size I just had to ensure not to stretch it too tight as I was topstitching it in as it doesn’t have the same stretch properties as the other elastic I was using.

I dropped by Spotlight on the Easter long weekend with the idea of buying a zip, I came home without the zip (didn’t have the colour and size I needed) but with more fabric! This one is a Japanese Lawn which I adore and it was on special. They are so soft and yet not see through and make up beautifully. I cut a dress out of this fabric and then used up the leftovers for these knickers. On the front yoke I have added in a centre front seam and topstitched down the seam allowance. I couldn’t quite fit the yoke in the scraps so I managed to maneuver it in by adding a seam. Then added the bright green elastic because it is such a fun colour.

The mix and match of elastics helps tie the colours and fabrics together and you’d never know they were made out of leftovers!

Posted on 07/04/201419/01/2016 by Susan Goodwin — Leave a comment

Knickers pattern Giveaway

Hi Everyone, the wonderful Leila over at Three Dresses is hosting a Measure Twice Cut Once giveaway.

Pop on over and leave a comment to be in the running to win your choice of one of our Knicker Patterns.

Good Luck!