Tag: dress sewing

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Sewing Adventures – Liberty insertion Dress

Regular readers are no strangers to seeing my go to dress, my own bodice block mixed with either a gathered or pleated skirt. It is by far the garment I have made the most as its not only a fast easy make it’s easy so easy to wear.

Rewind to late November 2019, I’m working 7 days a week, it’s hot the air is heavy with bushfire smoke and we are preparing to fly to England for Christmas. To say I was busy would be a vast understatement of the facts. In my bid to speed things up I grabbed some Liberty fabric from the stash that was pre washed, my bodice pattern and headed to Bobbin and Ink to teach for the day. Good Luck with the buses meant I arrived early lay out my fabric, cut my bodice and thought yep no problems tonnes left for my skirt.

Only not so much, my skirt was too short, like much too short. In a panic and under time pressure I basically threw it back into my to do pile where it has been floundering ever since.

The fabric was way too pretty to lose so I needed to find a solution.

Cue some insertion lace and leftovers from one of my Liberty fabric Myosotis dresses. Using 2 lines of insertion makes the whole look more deliberate and less like I made a big mistake.

Showing that a little bit of a break and some creative thinking means that everything can be salvaged just sometimes we need to slow down and take a step back to find our solutions.It was also approved by the cat (an important part of the process that I’m sure all cat owners will agree with me).

Pattern: my own bodice block with a modified skirt

Fabric: Liberty lawn from Liberty of London, insertion lace from Pitt Trading

Alterations: next time just slow down and think some more

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2018 total makes

All year I’ve been keeping a tally of what I’ve made, I thought it would be an interesting way of seeing how productive I actually am.

Bessie swimsuit – fabric purchased 2018 from Rathdowne Fabrics

Emma slip in dark floral – fabric purchased 2018 from Pitt Trading

Tote bag in grey with pink spot – fabric from stash (originally from Spotlight)

7 kit bags in bunny print cotton –  fabric from stash (originally from Spotlight)

1 Peg Bag in Cat print lightweight canvas – fabric from stash (originally from Miss Matatabi)

Papercut Patterns Sway dress – fabric from stash originally from Pitt Trading, cream tassels purchased 2018 from Pitt Trading. Pattern given to me by a friend.

Grainline Linden sweatshirt – grey marle fleece printed with sloths from stash originally from Spotlight. Pattern given to me by a friend.

Grainline Yates coat – double sided suede from the stash originally from Pitt Trading. Pattern Purchased 2018

Tote Bag in Sloth print – fabric from the stash, originally from Miss Matatabi

Emma Slip with lace edge – fabric from 2018 Sydney Spoolettes swap, lace and fold over elastic purchased from Pitt Trading 2018

Emma Slip in lemon and pink floral – fabric from stash, original purchased from Pitt Trading. Lace and elastic purchased from Pitt Trading 2018

Darcy Boxer shorts in Navy cotton – fabric from stash originally from Pitt Trading, Buttons purchased 2018 from Pitt Trading. Elastic from Prym as part of my sponsorship from them

Deer and Doe Myosotis Dress in Liberty Lawn – tiny square print, fabric from stash, originally purchased online from a Liberty sale last year and then posted to The Englishman’s parents and picked up at Christmas. Buttons from Pitt Trading purchased 2018.

The Bingley Boxer shorts in star print cotton – fabric from Pitt Trading, given to me as the sample was used for store promotion

Deer and Doe Myosotis Dress in Liberty Lawn – tiny pink splashes print, fabric from stash, originally purchased online from a Liberty sale last year and then posted to The Englishman’s parents and picked up at Christmas. Buttons from Pitt Trading purchased 2018.

5 x wee braw bags – fabrics from Quiltsmith purchased 2018 for this purpose. Trims purchased from Pitt Trading 2018. Pattern  purchased from Craftsy

3 x Knitting size wee braw bags – fabrics from Quiltsmith purchased 2018 for this purpose. Trims purchased from Pitt Trading 2018.  Pattern  purchased from Craftsy

Jalie Clara Tights in Camo Print – fabric from stash but originally from Pitt Trading, Pattern purchased as a PDF from Jalie 2018

Jinbei shorts for The Englishman –  fabric from stash but originally from Pitt Trading, pattern salvaged from fire but originally from Nomura Tailor Kyoto

Papercut Patterns Adrift dress in pink lawn with large white flowers – fabric from stash but originally from Lincraft 2017, purchased on sale.

Papercut Patterns Adrift dress in floral silk – fabric from Pitt Trading 2018

10 Beeswax wraps –  beeswax a gift from SewBusyLizzy, Fabric from Quiltsmith and Pitt Trading all purchased 2018

Black, pink and spot pre printed tights – fabric from Pitt Trading 2018

Blue floral pre printed tights – fabric from Pitt Trading 2018

Cherry Blossom pre printed tights – fabric from Pitt Trading 2018

Tote Bag with lemurs – fabric 2018 from Pitt Trading as part of their #pitttradingbanthebag promo

Claire swimsuit – blue swim Lycra from stash originally from Pitt Trading

Bessie swimsuit – black, black and white print from Pitt Trading 2018

Nina Lee Kew dress – pale peach broderie anglaise from stash originally from The Fabric Cave, buttons from Pitt Trading

Angled hem waisted dress – hot pink Shibori cotton from Fibers to Fabric 2018 Gift as part of collaboration

penguin wee baw bag – fabrics purchased 2018 from Pitt Trading

Penguin drawstring bag – fabrics purchased from Pitt Trading 2018

Penguin sleeve bag – fabrics purchased from Pitt Trading 2018

6 rope bowls – rope purchased 2018 from lost Property HK Etsy store

Stripe jinbei shorts for the Englishman – fabric from the stash

Bingley boxers- pink destination fabric from Pitt Trading 2018, Prym elastic

Darcy boxers – moped fabric from stash originally from Pitt Trading, Prym elastic

maree swimsuit – pink Turkish print Lycra from stash originally from Pitt Trading

maree swimsuit – aqua belle print Lycra from stash originally from Pitt Trading

Darcy Boxer shorts and matching drawstring bag in Australian Christmas fabric from stash but originally from Spotlight. Elastic from Prym sponsorship

Casmerette wrap dress in jungle print rayon jersey from Pitt Trading – this one was made as a sample for the Pitt Trading Summer Soiree so is actually for one of the other girls working there.

Louisa swimsuit in autumnal florals and blue – from Pitt Trading – this one was made as a sample for the Pitt Trading Summer Soiree so is actually for one of the other girls working there.

Nina Lee Kew dress in red hail spot cotton from Pitt Trading this one was made as a sample for the Pitt Trading Summer Soiree

Elite Directo Bike Trainer Cover – cat fabric from Pitt Trading Purchased 2018

4 drainage bags – fabric purchased from Spotlight 2018

Papercut Patterns Sway Dress in Cranes – fabric from stash originally from Spotlight

3 Wee Braw Bags using up the leftovers from the Drainage bag fabrics

Seamwork Alamada robe in silk viscose- purchased from Pitt Trading 2018

Jalie Cocoon cardigan – merino wool from the stash originally from The Fabric Store

3 PICC covers – fabric from Pitt Trading

Rutland Collection wrist warmers – merino wool from the stash originally from The Fabric Store

Deer and Doe Magnolia in Rayon Challis purchased 2018 Lincraft on sale

Modified Myosotis Deer and Doe in white embroidered lawn purchased 2018 from Pitt Trading

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Sewing Adventures – Pink Floral Adrift Dress

You all saw my gorgeous silk version of this a few weeks ago but this cotton lawn version is my very wearable toile.

After measuring up the pattern I decided to go with the longest skirt and ruffle lengths and add a bit of width into the back skirt panel. I also did a super sneaky change and swapped the skirt ruffle to finish on my right hand side and not my left hand side. My right is where my surgery was and I’m lopsided there and the ruffle adds a little bit more visual camo.

For the back skirt I added 4 cm at the fold line (so 8cm in total) and the same amount to the ruffle. It gave me a bit more space over my bottom and ensured the dress wouldn’t be tight as I wanted to maintain the loose silhouette.

I also eliminated the drawstring as I have to be slightly careful around my scar tissue. I sewed lingerie elastic onto the seam allowance of the waist join stretching it as I went to create the gathering. It worked well and provided a nice soft finish.

This dress takes a surprising amount of fabric but comes together so incredibly quickly that I feel like it would be a perfect summer dress and stash buster if you’ve got some lightweight lawns/cottons/silks in your stash that you’d like to actually wear and not just look at.

As this was my toile my neckline is the original neckline. It’s a fraction on the wide side but perfect for summer and who doesn’t love a dress you can pull on straight over your head?

I really like it and I can see it making many a trip to the beach and pool!

Pattern: Adrift dress by Papercut Patterns. Generously provided to Pitt Trading.

Fabric: Printed cotton lawn from the stash originally rom Lincraft.

Alterations: cut longest length skirt and ruffle, added 4cm on the fold to back skirt width and ruffle.

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Sewing Adventures – Deer and Doe Myosotis Dress

I’m so excited about this dress! Truly I am, I loved it when I first saw the Myosotis released by Deer and Doe but didn’t think the shape would be for me? Through the encouragement of some sewing friends I gave it a go and I am so glad I did!


I cut a straight size 44 with no alterations except on the bottom ruffle I cut it at the full length. I wanted the dress to hit just under my knee.
I only had enough of this Liberty Lawn to do the ruffle on the bottom but not the sleeve ruffle but that didn’t worry me as the sleeve ruffle would’ve come a very long way down my short arms.
Mid way through the make I popped it on and was a little bit “oh my gosh I’ve made a little house on the prairie dress” but once it all came together it lost that look.


It’s not a super fitted dress and I deliberately chose to make mine not super fitted in the torso. As a result I can pull the whole thing on without undoing any of the buttons and the comfort factor is huge!
Construction wise it comes together very easily but be sure to choose something that can gather easy because “holy gathering Batman!” There is a lot of gathers.


The pattern pieces all fit together really well but I had to use an easing stitch to get the sleeves in perfectly and there is no mention of that in the instructions.
I also raised the side seam pocket placement ever so slightly as the original placement was just too low for me.

These cute square buttons I got from Pitt Trading as I liked how they mimicked the tiny pixels of the print.


Now that I have seen the photos I notice I have some bust drag lines and some around the neckline from the side neck outwards. Some of this could be because it needs a proper press, am working with a less than great iron at present. I’m not overly bothered by these but it is something I will think about before I make my next one and I know there is definitely going to be more!

Pattern: The myosotis dress from Deer and Doe
Fabric: Liberty Lawn from the stash but originally ordered from Liberty when they had a big fabric sale early last year. I ordered a few pieces and had them sent to The Englishman’s parents and then picked them up while we were there at Christmas.
Alterations: raised pockets by approx 3cm at side seam, changed collar construction to get a neater internal neck finish. Changes for next time, look at drag lines on bust and from collar/high shoulder point

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Sewing Adventures – Papercut Patterns Sway dress

I had thought I’d set myself an extra challenge this year and make all my patterns myself, so no shop bought patterns no Indies all my own…..then I realised sometimes you just need clothes and you need to get on with things and just to go for it.

Enter the Papercut Patterns Sway dress. This pattern was given to me by a friend after the fire, they thought having a loose swingy dress would be an easy make after all our dramas. They were right it, was a quick make.

I think the longest part was cutting out and making sure the rayon fabric didn’t slip and slide around. I cut on the wooden floor and it was a surprisingly stable rayon which made for a nice change.

I cut the size medium but increased the length as I’m hoping it might be a good trans seasonal piece and I’ve been liking the look of longer dresses lately so I can see how I look and feel wearing one.

Having read reviews of the pattern I should have been more cautious and checked the armholes but I didn’t. They are really big, like show about an inch of the side of my bra big. I don’t care about showing my bra but I do care about ugly armholes and the size of these is not good. Am not going to hassle with this make now but in future would be adding to the armholes to bring them up by at least 4 to 5 cm.

Becasue I wanted to keep the rayon to be nice and flowing I chose to go with the provided facings, despite my hatred of facings. They go in easily and make the insides look clean but this bit here where you can see the facing from the lower v neck is visually repugnant to me. Next time I’ll use bias binding to finish the neck and armholes and avoid this.

The waist ties are not too long, I choose to make my longer so the ends would fall down the dress more. Mostly because my middle section needs a bit of visual camouflage. I added the tassels to the end to stop a fairly plain dress (for me) be not too boring. Because the waist ties are not attached to the dress it means they won’t be going through the wash which is handy as I’m fairly sure those are ceramic beads of some kind?

Pattern: Sway Dress by Papercut Patterns cut in a size Medium

Fabric: Printed rayon from the stash but originally from Pitt Trading, cream tassels purchased from Pitt Trading

Alterations: Added 10cm length to the dress, cut waist tie twice as long, added tassels. Next time use Bias binding instead of facings, add 4 to 5cm height to underarms to bring them up.