Tag: indie patterns

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Sewing Adventures – Deer and Doe Myosotis in Liberty Print

At this stage I’m sure no one is surprised I’ve made another myosotis, this is my 4th one and quite possibly not my last.

I wanted something I could wear to work hence my choice of a darker style of fabric.

This one I picked up at The Fabric Store and while it was marked as lawn it feels a good deal heavier than any of the other lawns I’ve got. Especially much heavier than any of the Liberty lawns that I own. Initially I had thought it was because it was a darker colour but nope it really doesn’t feel or react like the other Liberty lawns. Weird.

These photos were taken on the way home from a full day at work so you can see at least it doesn’t wrinkle up too much despite a days worth of wear.

It did however sew up nicely and well quickly as I smashed this one out just before we went to England for Christmas. I even omitted the pockets in order to get it sewn faster. Because I’ve made it a few times, I know I can just pull it on over my head so I don’t bother with the buttonholes and just sew the buttons directly through both plackets closing them up. These are some fun slightly vintage style ones that helped bring a darker fabric to life.

Despite being much darker than I normally wear this one has been in heavy rotation during the holiday and then wearing it to work since then. I just wish it was as light and airy as my other lawn pieces which would be a great help in this sweaty weather.

Pattern – Deer and Doe Myosotis

Fabric – Liberty from The Fabric Store Sydney

Alterations – omitted pockets for speed of sewing, don’t do that again!

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Sewing Techniques: Lengthen or Shorten a swimsuit pattern

Swimwear especially one pieces really don’t give you much room to finalise the length once you are finished like you would for a dress or a skirt. So here are some tips and tricks to make getting it right for you.

Choosing your size

Swimwear needs to use the negative ease of the pattern/fabric combination in order to fit correctly. 

Measure yourself. Bust, waist and hip. If the style has a lower back then also measure your bust from side seam to side seam over the breasts.

Measure your flat pattern pieces and subtract the seam allowance. Seam Allowance is 1cm (if you are not using a Measure Twice Cut Once pattern be sure to check the individual brands instructions for seam allowances). Add front and back measurements together to get the circumference. Check your stretch % and use that to calculate your size. If you aren’t confident doing that, then subtract 5cm from the total circumference and start with that size.

Lengthening or Shortening

Measure from your crotch to the neckline position of your chosen style. Stand straight, do not lean forward. Look in a full lenth mirror if it helps you see the correct positioning.

On the pattern piece front measure from crotch to neckline and subtract the seam allowances. 

Compare the 2 measurements and determine if you want to lengthen or shorten? You want a small amount of negative ease in this case but no more than 3cm unless your fabric has a very high stretch %.

Use the lengthen/shorten lines indicated on the pattern. Spread the amount you need to lengthen or shorten throughout the pattern in order to preserve proportions.

**Proportions are highly relevant in all pattern making but seeing as how swim is the smallest amount of fabric covering the most curved parts of your body it counts more than ever. Always spread or reduce evenly throughout the pattern taking into account your own body shape. If your bust needs significantly more length than your belly/bottom then add more there. The key is to maintain the desired look of the design while also taking into account your own body shaping.

Once the required amount is added or subtracted, re draw the side seams. Maintain a smooth and even seam line to ensure it fits the contours of your body.

Check other areas before proceeding

Measure side seams to ensure they still match as in front and back are same lengths or back meets to the correct point on the front in the case of swimwear with low backs.

Check that the new body length has not affected other areas of the swimsuit in terms of coverage. Key areas to check are centre front necklines, underarms and bottom coverage. Again measure your body and measure your pattern pieces to determine if any changes need to be made.

I hope this helps you determine your correct length for swimwear, if you have any questions drop them in the comments and I’ll answer them in case anyone else has the same query.

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Sewing Adventures – Cashmerette Appleton dress

This post is so overdue in being written. One of those things that kept getting put on the backburner and then bumped and well you know how it goes. It’s time to share the Cashmerette Appleton dress I made as part of the Pitt Trading Summer Soiree (held all the way back in October 2018).

First let’s talk about the pattern. I used the copy shop version and ended up making the size 12. Mainly because it was going to be used on display and we had a size 12 dummy to be dressed. All over it went together really well. My only tiny problem was the fact I never read the instructions and spent a good 5 to 10 minutes trying to figure out how the ties actually worked? So aside from my oversight I was really impressed at how fast and easy it was.

I used my overlocker and overstitch machine and the actual sewing took maybe half an hour. Which is really speedy, great if you need a dress in a hurry.

Now for the fabric it’s the Vivid Jungle Knit from Pitt Trading.

I want this fabric in ALL the colours and ALL the prints. Sadly it only came in this print as Pitt Trading got it as part of their amazing way of getting designer fabrics. It’s a soft, stretchy viscose knit and the print is fabulous.

Combined with this pattern this surely has to be the most secret pyjamas outfit I have ever made.

Pattern: Cashmerette Appleton Dress

Fabric: Vivid Jungle Knit from Pitt Trading

Alterations: read the instructions next time

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Sewing Adventures – Deer and Doe Magnolia Dress

I fell in love with the Deer and Doe Magnolia dress as soon as it was released, v neck, faux wrap and oddly for me I loved the long version.

When you are short you are always told to never wear floor length dresses because it will make you appear shorter. But you know what no one ever mentions? The fact that they feel awesome to wear! Suddenly you are swishing down the street like some kind of goddess, so hang being short and bring on the long goddess dresses.

I wanted to make a wearable toile and had spotted this rayon challis at Lincraft of all places. This is now my second fabric purchase from Lincraft in 20 years, woo crazy stuff I know. It was originally close to $20 a metre and while cute was not worth that, I kept waiting till it went on sale and finally got it for about $6 a metre which was perfect because this dress is a fabric eater! Even without the sleeves there is a tonne of fabric useage.

Sewing wise it all went really well. In the future I’d re toile the bodice as the princess seam is now where near my bust causing some odd drags at the underarm and I need to shorten the bodice from shoulder to waistband by about 1.5cm. I also found I could get it on without the zip so didn’t put the zip in which was good as I have a sneaking suspicion this fabric would not have liked having a zip put in.

The fabric is a dream to wear, its opaque so no lingerie, cool and breezy on hot days and doesnt crush too much over the length of the day. These photos were taken about 5pm and I’d been wearing it since 9am so that’s pretty good. The bad about the fabric is that it keeps growing. I had hemmed it to wear with my flat summer thongs. It’s now at the point where I have to wear my boot clogs or I trip over it. I think I’ll wash it again this week and then cut off the hem and re hem it back to a non trip hazard length.

While I’m at it I’m also going to sew up the leg split. I’m not sure how I managed it but I have a crotch level split. Which which good for hot weather does rather flash people more than I am comfortable with.

Pattern: Deer and Doe Magnolia

Fabric: Rayon Challis from Lincraft

Alterations: reduce thigh spilt, reduce bodice length, move princess seams to be on bust

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Sewing Adventures – Nina Lee Kew Dress in vintage embroidered cotton

This is more of a wearable toile but I’ve been wearing it so much despite a few issues that I thought it was well worth it’s own blog post.

Last year when Pitt Trading did their Summer Soiree Nina Lee offered a discount code so I picked up the Kew Dress after seeing so many lovely versions online.

Because I wanted to make a wearable toile I used this vintage embroidered cotton from the stash. It’s got marks on it after the fire and while I loved the fabric it’s so very close to my skin tone that it was destined to be a dress I wore at home only. To combat the eyelet holes it’s fully underlined in white cotton voile.

The pattern itself went together with ease, all the seams line up and things just fitted which is such a pleasure in a pattern.

This one I cut without any alterations and in hindsight there are a few things I’d fix. It wrinkles at the back, the straps are too long for me (though I have a sneaking suspicion I actually cut them at the wrong length) and I need to adjust the position of the straps to cover my bra.

You can also see where it pulls at the centre front on the waist seam. This is not a pattern problem, this is because I’m lopsided after surgery and it causes things to gape there. Honestly I’m not that bothered about it on a dress I had always intended to wear at home or over my swimmers going to and from a swim. If it was intended for fancier purposes then I’d do something about it.

However, it has been such a great dress in this heat. It’s easy to wear and move about in, I particularly like the slightly dipped back hem. The buttons (awesome unicorn shimmer ones from Pitt Trading) also mean it’s not as tight feeling as a zippered dress which is good when you feel like a sweat puddle.

Pattern: Nina Lee Kew Dress

Fabric: vintage embroidered cotton from the stash originally from the Fabric Cave. Buttons from Pitt Trading

Alterations: next time shorten straps, eliminate back gaping and potentially look at under bust wrinkles (or just stand up straight!)

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2018 total makes

All year I’ve been keeping a tally of what I’ve made, I thought it would be an interesting way of seeing how productive I actually am.

Bessie swimsuit – fabric purchased 2018 from Rathdowne Fabrics

Emma slip in dark floral – fabric purchased 2018 from Pitt Trading

Tote bag in grey with pink spot – fabric from stash (originally from Spotlight)

7 kit bags in bunny print cotton –  fabric from stash (originally from Spotlight)

1 Peg Bag in Cat print lightweight canvas – fabric from stash (originally from Miss Matatabi)

Papercut Patterns Sway dress – fabric from stash originally from Pitt Trading, cream tassels purchased 2018 from Pitt Trading. Pattern given to me by a friend.

Grainline Linden sweatshirt – grey marle fleece printed with sloths from stash originally from Spotlight. Pattern given to me by a friend.

Grainline Yates coat – double sided suede from the stash originally from Pitt Trading. Pattern Purchased 2018

Tote Bag in Sloth print – fabric from the stash, originally from Miss Matatabi

Emma Slip with lace edge – fabric from 2018 Sydney Spoolettes swap, lace and fold over elastic purchased from Pitt Trading 2018

Emma Slip in lemon and pink floral – fabric from stash, original purchased from Pitt Trading. Lace and elastic purchased from Pitt Trading 2018

Darcy Boxer shorts in Navy cotton – fabric from stash originally from Pitt Trading, Buttons purchased 2018 from Pitt Trading. Elastic from Prym as part of my sponsorship from them

Deer and Doe Myosotis Dress in Liberty Lawn – tiny square print, fabric from stash, originally purchased online from a Liberty sale last year and then posted to The Englishman’s parents and picked up at Christmas. Buttons from Pitt Trading purchased 2018.

The Bingley Boxer shorts in star print cotton – fabric from Pitt Trading, given to me as the sample was used for store promotion

Deer and Doe Myosotis Dress in Liberty Lawn – tiny pink splashes print, fabric from stash, originally purchased online from a Liberty sale last year and then posted to The Englishman’s parents and picked up at Christmas. Buttons from Pitt Trading purchased 2018.

5 x wee braw bags – fabrics from Quiltsmith purchased 2018 for this purpose. Trims purchased from Pitt Trading 2018. Pattern  purchased from Craftsy

3 x Knitting size wee braw bags – fabrics from Quiltsmith purchased 2018 for this purpose. Trims purchased from Pitt Trading 2018.  Pattern  purchased from Craftsy

Jalie Clara Tights in Camo Print – fabric from stash but originally from Pitt Trading, Pattern purchased as a PDF from Jalie 2018

Jinbei shorts for The Englishman –  fabric from stash but originally from Pitt Trading, pattern salvaged from fire but originally from Nomura Tailor Kyoto

Papercut Patterns Adrift dress in pink lawn with large white flowers – fabric from stash but originally from Lincraft 2017, purchased on sale.

Papercut Patterns Adrift dress in floral silk – fabric from Pitt Trading 2018

10 Beeswax wraps –  beeswax a gift from SewBusyLizzy, Fabric from Quiltsmith and Pitt Trading all purchased 2018

Black, pink and spot pre printed tights – fabric from Pitt Trading 2018

Blue floral pre printed tights – fabric from Pitt Trading 2018

Cherry Blossom pre printed tights – fabric from Pitt Trading 2018

Tote Bag with lemurs – fabric 2018 from Pitt Trading as part of their #pitttradingbanthebag promo

Claire swimsuit – blue swim Lycra from stash originally from Pitt Trading

Bessie swimsuit – black, black and white print from Pitt Trading 2018

Nina Lee Kew dress – pale peach broderie anglaise from stash originally from The Fabric Cave, buttons from Pitt Trading

Angled hem waisted dress – hot pink Shibori cotton from Fibers to Fabric 2018 Gift as part of collaboration

penguin wee baw bag – fabrics purchased 2018 from Pitt Trading

Penguin drawstring bag – fabrics purchased from Pitt Trading 2018

Penguin sleeve bag – fabrics purchased from Pitt Trading 2018

6 rope bowls – rope purchased 2018 from lost Property HK Etsy store

Stripe jinbei shorts for the Englishman – fabric from the stash

Bingley boxers- pink destination fabric from Pitt Trading 2018, Prym elastic

Darcy boxers – moped fabric from stash originally from Pitt Trading, Prym elastic

maree swimsuit – pink Turkish print Lycra from stash originally from Pitt Trading

maree swimsuit – aqua belle print Lycra from stash originally from Pitt Trading

Darcy Boxer shorts and matching drawstring bag in Australian Christmas fabric from stash but originally from Spotlight. Elastic from Prym sponsorship

Casmerette wrap dress in jungle print rayon jersey from Pitt Trading – this one was made as a sample for the Pitt Trading Summer Soiree so is actually for one of the other girls working there.

Louisa swimsuit in autumnal florals and blue – from Pitt Trading – this one was made as a sample for the Pitt Trading Summer Soiree so is actually for one of the other girls working there.

Nina Lee Kew dress in red hail spot cotton from Pitt Trading this one was made as a sample for the Pitt Trading Summer Soiree

Elite Directo Bike Trainer Cover – cat fabric from Pitt Trading Purchased 2018

4 drainage bags – fabric purchased from Spotlight 2018

Papercut Patterns Sway Dress in Cranes – fabric from stash originally from Spotlight

3 Wee Braw Bags using up the leftovers from the Drainage bag fabrics

Seamwork Alamada robe in silk viscose- purchased from Pitt Trading 2018

Jalie Cocoon cardigan – merino wool from the stash originally from The Fabric Store

3 PICC covers – fabric from Pitt Trading

Rutland Collection wrist warmers – merino wool from the stash originally from The Fabric Store

Deer and Doe Magnolia in Rayon Challis purchased 2018 Lincraft on sale

Modified Myosotis Deer and Doe in white embroidered lawn purchased 2018 from Pitt Trading

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New website Look! and file downloads for existing orders

The last few weeks I have been working hard behind the scenes to refresh the website and give it a bit of a new look. Mostly it went well but I had one huge problem with the downloadable pattern files. So if you’d tried to purchase over the last few weeks you might have ended up with a Whoops! File not found error message when trying to download your file.

I am so sorry if that happened but you will be pleased to know that the problem is all fixed. But it means that your existing file links won’t work. If you need to re download your files please do the following

  • if it’s for the Darcy Boxers please just go and re “buy” the pattern and you will receive a new link to use
  • if it’s a paid for pattern that you have already purchased please email me measuretwicecutoncepatterns @ gmail.com (take out the spaces) with your order number and I can manually reset your order

Sorry it’s a bit of a pain but the old links simply won’t work and trying to rebuild the links was beyond my capabilities so I’ve gone with a solution that works and that I know I can fix if anything should go wrong again (which fingers crossed it won’t).

If you find any other issues with the website please drop me a line and I’ll take a look and sort them out, I know there is always a few new bugs to iron out the more I use it.

Thanks again and I hope you like the new look!

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Sewing Adventures – Pink Floral Adrift Dress

You all saw my gorgeous silk version of this a few weeks ago but this cotton lawn version is my very wearable toile.

After measuring up the pattern I decided to go with the longest skirt and ruffle lengths and add a bit of width into the back skirt panel. I also did a super sneaky change and swapped the skirt ruffle to finish on my right hand side and not my left hand side. My right is where my surgery was and I’m lopsided there and the ruffle adds a little bit more visual camo.

For the back skirt I added 4 cm at the fold line (so 8cm in total) and the same amount to the ruffle. It gave me a bit more space over my bottom and ensured the dress wouldn’t be tight as I wanted to maintain the loose silhouette.

I also eliminated the drawstring as I have to be slightly careful around my scar tissue. I sewed lingerie elastic onto the seam allowance of the waist join stretching it as I went to create the gathering. It worked well and provided a nice soft finish.

This dress takes a surprising amount of fabric but comes together so incredibly quickly that I feel like it would be a perfect summer dress and stash buster if you’ve got some lightweight lawns/cottons/silks in your stash that you’d like to actually wear and not just look at.

As this was my toile my neckline is the original neckline. It’s a fraction on the wide side but perfect for summer and who doesn’t love a dress you can pull on straight over your head?

I really like it and I can see it making many a trip to the beach and pool!

Pattern: Adrift dress by Papercut Patterns. Generously provided to Pitt Trading.

Fabric: Printed cotton lawn from the stash originally rom Lincraft.

Alterations: cut longest length skirt and ruffle, added 4cm on the fold to back skirt width and ruffle.

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Sewing Adventures: Silk Floral Adrift Dress

There are days when working in a fabric store is every part the dream job most sewers envision it to be. When silk like this comes in from a top end designer its one of those days.

When the owners of Pitt Trading decide they want to team up with Papercut Patterns to use their patterns to showcase said amazing silk when then that’s a really good day.

I immediately put my hand up to make up the Adrift dress as I’ve always thought it so pretty and it looks like an easy to wear pattern. I read some reviews online and mostly everything was positive except a few people mentioned it’s a bit on the short side. Being a bit on the short side myself I didn’t think that would be a big problem but as always I started with measuring the pattern to choose my size.

After measuring up the pattern I decided to go with the longest skirt and ruffle lengths and add a bit of width into the back skirt panel. I also did a super sneaky change and swapped the skirt ruffle to finish on my right hand side and not my left hand side. My right is where my surgery was and I’m lopsided there and the ruffle adds a little bit more visual camo.

For the back skirt I added 4 cm at the fold line (so 8cm in total) and the same amount to the ruffle. It gave me a bit more space over my bottom and ensured the dress wouldn’t be tight as I wanted to maintain the loose silhouette.

I also eliminated the drawstring as I have to be slightly careful around my scar area. I sewed lingerie elastic onto the seam allowance of the waist join stretching it as I went to create the gathering. It worked well and provided a nice soft finish.

The final addition was to block the neckline in a little. The original neckline is more boatneck width and that’s fine in a cotton on me but in the silk I wanted it a little closer. Instead of using the facings provided the neckline was finished with a fine satin bias binding.

The silk is a dream to sew, not too shifty took a nice Sharps needle well and even cutting out it didn’t move about so that was good. The print is so beautiful and oversize that I didn’t bother with any pattern matching apart from placing the front bodice panel to get the maximum amount of pink on it.

My new Bernina overlocker does a really nice roll hem so I finished the ruffles on the skirt and sleeves with that. It looks nice and neat and not like it was “just” overlooked. It’s a good way of finishing a hem that may have proven tricky using other methods.

Wearing wise I’m loving the change of silhouette, it’s soft yet feminine, it feels a little short to me but I’m getting used to that and I don’t feel like I’m flashing people or anything like that. Silk is dreamy against the skin (it’s not lined) and I wore it out for my birthday to have a degustation menu and the elastic waist was in it’s element!

Pattern: Adrift dress by Papercut Patterns. Generously provided by them in order to make the samples.

Fabric: Printed silk from Pitt Trading. Generously provided by them in order to make the samples.

Alterations: added 4cm to CB skirt fold, swapped skirt ruffle closure to other side, blocked in neckline, elastic waist

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Sewing Adventures – Deer and Doe Myosotis Dress v2

I loved my first Myosotis so much I pretty much started cutting out a second one after the first day of wearing my first version.

I was using this lush Liberty Tana Lawn which was another one I picked up when I was in the UK at some point.

Everything was exactly the same as the first time I made it except for the collar. In my first one I get these weird drag lines. It gets so bad while wearing that it actually looks like the garment has tucks in it.

This time I tried it on before I added the collar and discovered the bodice comes up into the column of my neck. To fix the problem I shaved over a centimetre off from the neckline. I think I would actually take more if I’m going to make it again as it has still a slight drag line to it.

Apart from that it was as straight forward sew. I skipped making buttonholes as I discovered that I can just pull it on over my head. It needs a good press but when I took these photos I hadn’t bought my lovely new iron yet.

It’s lovely and floaty and goes well with tights and boots for winter and am sure it will ease me right into the warm weather too. Snapped these photos on a sunny day after teaching at Bobbin and Ink.

Pattern: Deer and Doe Myosotis Dress

Fabric: Liberty Tana Lawn

Alterations: shaved 1cm off neckline, all other alts as per last time I made the pattern.