Tag: sewing swimwear

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Sewing Adventures – Matching Rash vests

Due to an enormous backlog of finished projects to share, I’ve decided to dive right in and not adhere to strict chronological order. Mostly because if I don’t start now I never will and also because it doesn’t matter when they were made only that they were made! So let’s get to it!

A trip to Fiji (2023) is a pretty mind blowing thing to prepare for, not only is it not the normal type of holiday for us to go on it was also preceded with a super busy time period. Having now been on the holiday it was amazing, we loved it and would do again!


Being the water lover that I am I knew I’d be in as much as I could and thought a second long sleeve rash vest would help protect me from the sun. Using Jalie Valerie I quickly whipped one up from this gorgeous pink swim lycra from the stash (originally from Pitt Trading now The Makers Society) my only changes were to make the arms longer than I normally do and make the neck band slightly wider.

and yes hats and sunglasses in the water were very necessary for anyone wanting to avoid some sun. The water is very calm so it’s not like you are going to lose everything when a wave hits you or anything like that.

Sewing wise I did the entire of the seams using my overlocker and then hemmed the sleeves and body using my coverstitch machine, super speedy nice and secure.

In some of these photos I’m wearing my previously made Jalie Valerie in a white and blue floral lycra also from The Makers Society.


At the last minute the day before we flew I decided to make one for The Englishman in whatever I had on hand which was some navy swim lycra and some athletic lycra in a sharkskin type print for the side panels.


Am so glad I did because we practically lived in these things as we explored the waters around the resort. we had an absolutely wonderful time and we didn’t get sunburnt so winning all around.

Can also highly recommend reef shoes, these are a neoprene upper with a rubber base and it made climbing through rock pools or traversing sand littered with coral a breeze. A must for anyone who wants to explore and swim.

Pattern: Valerie from Jalie – made my sleeves longer and wider neck band for me (in a previous version I have blended the sizing from my bust size out to my waist and hip. I found doing this stops it from riding up while paddleboarding, this is now my base pattern I use), no changes for The Englishman

Fabric: embroidered cotton lawn and plain cotton lawn both from the stash originally from Pitt Trading

Changes: pattern changes as noted above

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2018 total makes

All year I’ve been keeping a tally of what I’ve made, I thought it would be an interesting way of seeing how productive I actually am.

Bessie swimsuit – fabric purchased 2018 from Rathdowne Fabrics

Emma slip in dark floral – fabric purchased 2018 from Pitt Trading

Tote bag in grey with pink spot – fabric from stash (originally from Spotlight)

7 kit bags in bunny print cotton –  fabric from stash (originally from Spotlight)

1 Peg Bag in Cat print lightweight canvas – fabric from stash (originally from Miss Matatabi)

Papercut Patterns Sway dress – fabric from stash originally from Pitt Trading, cream tassels purchased 2018 from Pitt Trading. Pattern given to me by a friend.

Grainline Linden sweatshirt – grey marle fleece printed with sloths from stash originally from Spotlight. Pattern given to me by a friend.

Grainline Yates coat – double sided suede from the stash originally from Pitt Trading. Pattern Purchased 2018

Tote Bag in Sloth print – fabric from the stash, originally from Miss Matatabi

Emma Slip with lace edge – fabric from 2018 Sydney Spoolettes swap, lace and fold over elastic purchased from Pitt Trading 2018

Emma Slip in lemon and pink floral – fabric from stash, original purchased from Pitt Trading. Lace and elastic purchased from Pitt Trading 2018

Darcy Boxer shorts in Navy cotton – fabric from stash originally from Pitt Trading, Buttons purchased 2018 from Pitt Trading. Elastic from Prym as part of my sponsorship from them

Deer and Doe Myosotis Dress in Liberty Lawn – tiny square print, fabric from stash, originally purchased online from a Liberty sale last year and then posted to The Englishman’s parents and picked up at Christmas. Buttons from Pitt Trading purchased 2018.

The Bingley Boxer shorts in star print cotton – fabric from Pitt Trading, given to me as the sample was used for store promotion

Deer and Doe Myosotis Dress in Liberty Lawn – tiny pink splashes print, fabric from stash, originally purchased online from a Liberty sale last year and then posted to The Englishman’s parents and picked up at Christmas. Buttons from Pitt Trading purchased 2018.

5 x wee braw bags – fabrics from Quiltsmith purchased 2018 for this purpose. Trims purchased from Pitt Trading 2018. Pattern  purchased from Craftsy

3 x Knitting size wee braw bags – fabrics from Quiltsmith purchased 2018 for this purpose. Trims purchased from Pitt Trading 2018.  Pattern  purchased from Craftsy

Jalie Clara Tights in Camo Print – fabric from stash but originally from Pitt Trading, Pattern purchased as a PDF from Jalie 2018

Jinbei shorts for The Englishman –  fabric from stash but originally from Pitt Trading, pattern salvaged from fire but originally from Nomura Tailor Kyoto

Papercut Patterns Adrift dress in pink lawn with large white flowers – fabric from stash but originally from Lincraft 2017, purchased on sale.

Papercut Patterns Adrift dress in floral silk – fabric from Pitt Trading 2018

10 Beeswax wraps –  beeswax a gift from SewBusyLizzy, Fabric from Quiltsmith and Pitt Trading all purchased 2018

Black, pink and spot pre printed tights – fabric from Pitt Trading 2018

Blue floral pre printed tights – fabric from Pitt Trading 2018

Cherry Blossom pre printed tights – fabric from Pitt Trading 2018

Tote Bag with lemurs – fabric 2018 from Pitt Trading as part of their #pitttradingbanthebag promo

Claire swimsuit – blue swim Lycra from stash originally from Pitt Trading

Bessie swimsuit – black, black and white print from Pitt Trading 2018

Nina Lee Kew dress – pale peach broderie anglaise from stash originally from The Fabric Cave, buttons from Pitt Trading

Angled hem waisted dress – hot pink Shibori cotton from Fibers to Fabric 2018 Gift as part of collaboration

penguin wee baw bag – fabrics purchased 2018 from Pitt Trading

Penguin drawstring bag – fabrics purchased from Pitt Trading 2018

Penguin sleeve bag – fabrics purchased from Pitt Trading 2018

6 rope bowls – rope purchased 2018 from lost Property HK Etsy store

Stripe jinbei shorts for the Englishman – fabric from the stash

Bingley boxers- pink destination fabric from Pitt Trading 2018, Prym elastic

Darcy boxers – moped fabric from stash originally from Pitt Trading, Prym elastic

maree swimsuit – pink Turkish print Lycra from stash originally from Pitt Trading

maree swimsuit – aqua belle print Lycra from stash originally from Pitt Trading

Darcy Boxer shorts and matching drawstring bag in Australian Christmas fabric from stash but originally from Spotlight. Elastic from Prym sponsorship

Casmerette wrap dress in jungle print rayon jersey from Pitt Trading – this one was made as a sample for the Pitt Trading Summer Soiree so is actually for one of the other girls working there.

Louisa swimsuit in autumnal florals and blue – from Pitt Trading – this one was made as a sample for the Pitt Trading Summer Soiree so is actually for one of the other girls working there.

Nina Lee Kew dress in red hail spot cotton from Pitt Trading this one was made as a sample for the Pitt Trading Summer Soiree

Elite Directo Bike Trainer Cover – cat fabric from Pitt Trading Purchased 2018

4 drainage bags – fabric purchased from Spotlight 2018

Papercut Patterns Sway Dress in Cranes – fabric from stash originally from Spotlight

3 Wee Braw Bags using up the leftovers from the Drainage bag fabrics

Seamwork Alamada robe in silk viscose- purchased from Pitt Trading 2018

Jalie Cocoon cardigan – merino wool from the stash originally from The Fabric Store

3 PICC covers – fabric from Pitt Trading

Rutland Collection wrist warmers – merino wool from the stash originally from The Fabric Store

Deer and Doe Magnolia in Rayon Challis purchased 2018 Lincraft on sale

Modified Myosotis Deer and Doe in white embroidered lawn purchased 2018 from Pitt Trading

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Swimwear class at Bobbin and Ink

 

Just finished a fabulous weekend teaching at Bobbin and Ink. We did an intensive swim weekend where it was 2 full days ouf all things swimwear.


The class was keen and even went home and cut out more things on the Saturday night so it was a hive of activity.
Over the weekend there were
2 x Henrietta swimsuits
1 x Anne swimsuit
1 x Soma bikini by Papercut patterns
1 x retro big4 bikini
1 x Listte B6358 bikini
And 2 more rashies cut out as well

With such a variety being made there was plenty of fit issues to work through to ensure that every suit perfectly matched its wearer. Lots of fabrics to be talked through with hints and tips on how to best apply elastics to differing fabrics and so much more.

A thoroughly fun weekend!

If you want to make your own swimsuit keep an eye on the Bobbin and Ink website and follow them on Instagram for more of my upcoming classes.

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Swimwear patterns instore now!

Today I’ve added another swim style to the ever increasing range of swimwear options available by Measure Twice Cut Once.

The new style is Agnes, she joins Henrietta and Anne. All available now in the swimwear section of the Pattern shop.

All patterns are available in sizes 6 to 18, come as downloadable PDF’s with instructions, A0 copy shop file, A4/Letter print at home file. Sewing swimwear is so much fun, with a few tricks and tips you will be making professional looking pieces in no time. Plus it’s fast so that’s a huge plus for time impatient sewers!

Grab a pattern and get sewing today you will not regret it.

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New Sewing Classes announced, Sydney and Melbourne

Want to learn to sew? brush up on some skills, learn some new techniques? Then I’ll be teaching classes to suit you!

First up Swimwear at Bobbin and Ink here in Sydney. It starts this Friday so get in quick to book your place

You can bring any swimsuit pattern you like but may I suggest Henrietta

or Anne

If you are in Melbourne and looking to skill up on your lingerie I am coming down to teach in February.

Book via Shop Sew Squirrel (and check out their divine lingerie supplies while you are there). You can choose to do either knickers or bralet workshops on a single day or combine them both and come for 2 days. It’s going to be lots of fun.

And lastly if you are wanting to start sewing or returning to sewing after a long hiatus I’m teaching a beginners class at Bobbin and Ink. It will be a fantastic way to fall in love with making your own clothes and having a lifelong skill and passion.

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Sewing Adventures – McCalls 7417 rash vest and pants

Sometimes accidents happen and this is one of those happy joyous accidents. Where I’ve made something I really love the fabric combinations.
Earlier this week I posted this image on Instagram.


I was intending to make my niece a rash vest to go with her roarsome swimsuit. Well I’m not sure if I’ve lost a sheet or am reading the pattern wrong but I cannot find the child’s pattern in this? I kept unfolding and rechecking and still nothing? Instead of getting stuck with searching for it it falling down a rabbit hole of internet research on it, I opened up my swimwear fabrics tub and started pulling out likely fabric combinations for myself.
This navy self spot was a The Fabric Store purchase from a few years back. It’s nice and thick but doesn’t have really great stretch as it’s a nylon knit with just a little spandex. It is however super cute.


The pattern fabric was something I spied on Instagram, had a meltdown about and was assisted by the amazing @_littleblackcloud in getting me some from Rathdowne fabrics. It’s super stretchy but quite lightweight.
Much laughter occurred at the idea of a cropped rash vest on Instagram. I mean it’s not exactly practical is it? However if you are not blessed with height the cropped version is actually a decent length. I added 2cm to the hem length of the crop version to make this top (keep in mind I’m only just 5 foot tall so this mod won’t work for taller people). EDIT: I’ve just come back from paddling and I have to say the cropped version doesn’t work, it keeps moving around and exposing my stomach. Unless you are wearing it over a one piece do not cut the cropped version.


To keep the top as lightweight as possible I used the navy spot as the side panels and cut the rest in the pattern. Once it was together I tried it on and ended up slimming down the arms as they were too baggy. I deliberately didn’t make it skin tight as I want to use it for stand up paddling. I paddle for about an hour each time I’m out. For the final few minutes of each session I take off my rash vest and paddle in my bikini. This gives me a huge dose of vitamin D but also ensures my fair skin doesn’t burn. If it’s super tight it’s really hard to get off while standing on the board.

Sleeve hems were overlocked and turned up to be topstitched down. The garment hem I added some clear 6mm elastic into the hem to help keep it in place during the paddling motion.


Now for the bottoms. As mentioned previously the patterned fabric is lightweight so I reversed the top layout by cutting the center of the pants in the navy and the sides in the pattern. As I do with all swimwear, all major seams were sewn then I try it on and adjust the fit. I took evenly off each seam allowance until they reached the desired fit. I also added a full lining and applied the elastic as I usually do and didn’t bother with their instructions on it.
There are some serious issues I have with this pattern.
1.5cm Seam allowance on swimwear, utter craziness. The seams are way too bulky and it makes the crotch way too wide causing odd bunching.
The bottoms only come with a gusset lining. No and no. Once the panels were together and adjusted I laid them flat and used them as a template to create a full front and back lining. The gusset is also far too wide, I found it went across and then down my legs and kept folding back up. So I cut it narrower. Perhaps use an existing swimsuit or even bikini knickers to judge your correct width?


It indicates the patterns are to be cut on the cross grain. To me this suggest cutting on the bias. Why on earth would you cut swim fabric on the bias? It certainly doesn’t need to be. Surely the correct terminology would be tell you to cut with the greatest amount of stretch going around the body?
This combined with some odd styling notions makes me think it was designed by someone who saw a picture and went we need one of those but has no practical knowledge of how swimwear works?
Despite the crazy pattern I am very happy with the set, mostly due to the awesome fabrics. The fit is ok it could be improved but they are functional and that’s always a big plus when it comes to swimwear.

Pattern: McCalls 7417 size Large for top with extra 2cm added to the crop length and narrowed sleeves. Cut size large for the bottoms but probably adjusted down to an M but check stretch % on next fabric before cutting a straight M.
Fabric: navy self spot from The Fabric Store, print from Rathdowne Fabric, lining and elastic from Pitt Trading
Changes for next time: cut down seam allowance before making it up. Cut crotch narrower, make full lining for pants and narrow the arms more.

And now I need to go search for the children’s pattern hidden inside? or I might just head out for another swim

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Sewing Adventures – Roarsome swimsuit

Sometimes a fabric is just so roarsome you have to have it.

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When this panel came into Pitt Trading I knew it would make the perfect swimsuit (or should that be purrfect). I’m in the midst of my Christmas present list and knew one of my nieces would love this.

I made up a swimsuit block for her age and got to cutting. Using a lightweight interfacing I could see through it to place the face in the correct position.

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For the back I added a centre back seam purely so I could cut the back out of the sides of the panel and use the remainder of the panel for another swimsuit.

To keep it smooth on the inside it is fully lined with all seams enclosed. Clear elastic was overlocked onto the legs, arms and neckline then turned under and topstitched with triple stitch zig zag. This was not so great, occasionally my machine would clog on the bobbin. This normally doesn’t happen at all so it was somewhat frustrating. It’s fine but not perfect and that’s somewhat annoying for me.

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I only wish I could be there Christmas morning when she opens it up!

Fabric: Nylon Spandex panel and swimwear lining from Pitt Trading

Trims: clear elastic from the stash

Pattern: my own

Alterations for next time: fix the topstitching!

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Come sew Swimwear with me at Bobbin and Ink

Summer is coming and I couldn’t be more excited. Long days of sunshine to be filled with food, friends, adventures and swimming. Sewing wise this means lots of swimsuits and now you have the chance to join me to make your own swimsuit.
I’ll be teaching a class at Bobbin and Ink. Spread over multiple Sundays you can bring along any pattern you wish and by the end of the class our aim is for you to leave with a finished swimsuit! Yay!
So here are just a few of the options you could come and make
Papercut Patterns Soma Swimsuit

papercut patterns Soma swimsuit

soma bikini
Named Patterns Beverly Twisted Bikini

17 finished top
Closet case files Sophie Swimsuit

screen-shot-2016-11-08-at-3-37-47-pm

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Burda Alison Swimsuit

front view

McCalls 7417 you can order all the following patterns direct through Bobbin and Ink

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Butterick B6358

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Lisette B6360

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For each of your swimsuits be sure to read the exact requirements on your patterns but in general you are going to need

Fabric
Lining
Elastic suitable for swimwear
Thread
You’ll want a fabric that is suitable for swimwear so start searching out some stretch fabric. Pitt Trading has a fabulous selection of designer pieces.
I’d also suggest bringing along some tracing paper so we can do any alterations you need to your pattern without ruining your original pattern.
To book into your class head on over to Bobbin and Ink, see you there!

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Sewing Adventures – Soma Swimsuit and Bikini

Over this summer I’ve been making plenty of swimsuits. I’ve taken up paddleboarding which I find it wonderfully relaxing and enjoyable. With views like this it would be hard not to. It also means new outfits were needed.

Sydney Harbour

I enjoy making swimmers and it’s so nice to use the gorgeous prints from Pitt Trading.

lycras from Pitt Trading
One of the styles I tried was the Soma pattern from Papercut patterns. I measured myself, I measured the patterns, I went by the guide and I cut myself the one piece.

papercut patterns Soma swimsuit
It’s huge. Like 2 or 3 sizes too big. It uses none of the lycras stretch at all. When I try it on it feels slack and if I added water it would most certainly fall down. The back gapes open as the cross over straps are not tight enough to sit flat. It’s clearly way too big.

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soma back

Not too discouraged I cut out the bikini. I went down a few sizes and tried them on part way through the process and took them in some more. This worked much better, the stretch of the fabric was now being used and they sat firmly. I’d say I ended up cutting an XS which is a bit shocking as I’m not an extra small size.

soma bikiniThis photos is before I added the straps.

Now for the true test, in the water. The bottoms were quite good. I have a slight issue at the lower leg at the back, the elastic tends to fold back when I walk, swim or paddleboard. Not a huge problem but I like my swimmers to stay in place during activities. The bottoms come up nice and high and give good waist coverage.

DCIM119GOPRO
This is a GoPro photo from when I’m out paddleboarding. I like the fish eye effect but it makes for terrible selfies, hence the no photos of me in the bikini shots.

The top was ok, if I make it again I’d potentially do a Full Bust adjustment as I felt less than secure and covered while swimming and moving around. Not badly but just felt like I wanted to keep hiking the top up as I didn’t feel support/covered enough?
Overall the patterns went together well and the instructions were clear. However the sizing doesn’t seem to take into account the stretch of the fabric adequately? I’d certainly recommend trying on your swimwear mid way through your sewing process and adjust as necessary.

The fold over elastic for the one piece makes getting a neat edge super easy and is a great technique.

soma swimsuit foldover edge

Fabric: Lycra from Pitt Trading

Pattern: Papercut Patterns Soma swimsuit as one piece and bikini.

Alterations:  One Piece – size down a few sizes, fill in back panel and not have the thin cross over straps. More support there would be helpful in not having the swimsuit move around so much during activities.

Bikini – full bust adjustment on top and potentially add to the cups to give more of a full coverage? Reshape lower back leg so it doesn’t fold over.