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Sewing Adventures – Harriet Bra – Mint and Pink Edition

This whole bra could be used a lesson in something you really wanted to be excellent but some silly mistakes and sewing while tired means that it just falls short of your expectations.

It’s the Harriet Bra from Cloth Habit with the adjustments mentioned here and here. Essentially this is meant to be the same as the blue printed mesh version I made but here are just some of the mistakes I made

  • I forgot to sew the bride SA smaller to give me a wider bridge
  • in my haste I sewed lining into the app cups which gave me a lovely quad boob look till I figured out what I had done wrong and cut it out. Fixing the quad boob look but leaving me a slightly irritating upper cup seam
  • forgetting to change the colour thread back correctly and sewing one at night and one during the day which means the underarm is sewn on in 2 different thread colours
  • instead of placing the bra flat before cutting off the casing at the underarm I cut it while holding it, resulting in cutting it straight and not on the angle to line with with the elastic. Had to rescue it/sew it closed with some stitching below the elastic

Honestly I know it’s all small stuff but it looks so pretty and then I see the issues and just shake my head at myself. Don’t sew while tired/stressed/annoyed at yourself.

Apart from the issues it looks amazing and I really like the fit. With a limited amount of lace I feel like I managed to cut it so it looks like it was planned that way and not just a result of “making it work” I’ll definitely be using similar methods in the future.

Pattern: Cloth Habit Harriet Bra – with fitting modifications

Fabric: Mint Powermesh, hot pink lace, strapping all from stash but originally from Pitt Trading.

Alterations: Slow down, take more care!

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Sewing Adventures – Modified Euler Bra – Pink

It really has been all about the bras lately. I’ve had this Sophie Hines Euler bra cut out for some time and only now just had the time to get it out and finish it. This is a modified Euler using the modified pack you can buy as an extra to the Euler Pattern.

Lower cups are lined in bamboo jersey with the upper fabrics being pink stretch mesh and printed stretch mesh. I basically used whatever trims I had in the stash that matched though I’m quite pleased at being able to use that little ruffle elastic for the neckline.

To wear it’s very comfortable, shape is a little flattening though honestly I should do an FBA on this but I was being lazy / testing the fit straight out of the packet. My goal was a soft comfortable bra to wear during hot weather and in that respect I’ve succeeded as it is comfy and good for hot weather.

This textured strapping was used on my test Harriet Bra and it’s super cute but the drawback is it is quite stiff. Good for feeling firm and keeping things in place but a right pain when trying to thread it through O rings and Sliders. I almost gave up it was so difficult. I got there in the end and hope it softens up some more with washing and wear.

Keeping the straps long I turned them into a cross over back which seems to suit the high neckline. It’s good on really hot days but the single line of elastic along the base can be slightly irritating. Next time I want to try adding a different back to see if it helps alleviate the slight cutting in feeling I get along my sides.

Pattern: Sophie Hines Euler Bra with mod pack

Fabric: bamboo jersey, stretch mesh, printed stretch mesh and elastic/strapping all from Pitt Trading

Alterations: next time alter back to not be a single line of elastic and change straps to not be a cross over

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Sewing Adventures – Cloth Habit Harriet Bra – Blue

Every so often I fall in love with a piece of fabric, colour and print and big motivating factors and well this fabric it was one of those swoon at first sight type moments. It came in during a shipment of designer fabrics when I was working at Pitt Trading and I was lucky enough to grab some before it was all sold out. Quite simply its gorgeous, based on some traditional Japanese style influences mixed together it’s exactly the kind of “lets put everything together and blend it” style print I’m drawn to.

Then when making this bra I decided to take the multi hued elements of the print and step further and use non matching trims to make the bra. Bt rights, this many colours, types and print mixed together should be a dogs breakfast. But it’s not it all came together in one of my most favourite makes ever.

The pattern is another Cloth Habit Harriet Bra with a few extra modifications. On my original I added some extra to the lower cup so I sat down into the cup more and adjusted the seam allowance at the bridge to allow it to be fractionally wider so the wires didn’t sit on top of each other.

These changes I was happy with but I want a little bt more projection and lift. When I wear the pink one I totally want to pinch out a section at the top to bring everything up. So I did, well sort of. Using this explanation from Emerald Erin I adjusted the upper panel and now I’ve got more lift and projection!

With these changes I think I’ve got the fit almost perfect for me, they are super comfortable to wear and I like the shape they give me, it’s not the high rounded shape of a full moulded foam cup but honestly am over that look anyway.

Pattern: Cloth Habit Harriet Bra with modifications for fit

Fabric: printed mesh and trims from Pitt Trading Inner lining and back closure from Underwired.co

Alterations: I think I’m pretty close with what I’ve done already.

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Sewing Adventures – Orange Lingerie Lexington Bra

Well it’s been a big time for bra making around here lately. I’ve been pressed for sewing time so smaller projects that I can fit in a little bit at a time have been working well for me. Plus I needed new bras so win win really.

The Lexington is a non wired bra that uses bra strapping to give shaping and definition with its cute cross over style. I had purchased it pretty soon after it came out with the hope that I could get it made up in time to wear on the plane for our trip. Sadly I ran out of time for that to happen so I was pretty glad when I had some spare time a few weekends ago to cut one out.

Using a printed stretch mesh as the outer, a crystal lycra as lining and cream power mesh for the back (all from Pitt Trading). Initially when I cut the pieces they looked so big that I was a little worried. That feeling of them being too big lasted all the way till the first time I wore it and once it was on, it was so comfortable that I forgot about that entirely. It is very full coverage and I might slice the top down fractionally but it doesn’t look bad just kind of lots of fabric.

Constructionally it went together well and the instructions are nice and clear. I also followed the online sew along on the blog that explains how to get the central cut out. The way the cut out is done is a bit clumsy, sewing a section in and then cutting it out just felt weird. You can see the remaining fabric around the central cut out. It looks kind of cute from the outside but the size of the cut out is way bigger than I was expecting. I like it but I think I want to try a version without it as I hope I like that even more.

Wearing it feels really good, decent shape, very comfortable no bits that dig in or pinch in any way. It’s not the full shape of a wired bra but vastly better than most non wired bras are.

Pattern: Lexington Bra from Orange Lingerie

Fabric: Printed stretch mesh, crystal lycra, cream power mesh, pink strapping all from the stash originally from Pitt Trading. Apricot hook and eye from Booby Traps

Alterations: this version follows the cut out shown on the Orange Lingerie blog. Next time I want to try it without the cut out but with the non hook and eye back (also shown on their blog)

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Sewing Adventures – Harriet Bra

This year I’m working on refilling my lingerie drawer as my bras are in desperate need of an update.

I’ve started with the Harriet Bra from Cloth Habit, not only is it a super pretty bra it mimics RTW styles I already wear but most importantly it can be made without foam.

The heat of summer is getting hotter and longer. Last summer I promised myself it was going to be the last summer I wore foam bras, they are sweaty, hot and generally just add to feeling hotter and sweatier.

Measuring  myself against the size chart I went with the exact size the chart told me to do. To check the fit I cut out a tester version in plain cotton with the Direction of Greatest Stretch being the bias of the cotton fabric. Once cut I quickly sewed it together without elastic then basted in the power mesh back and back closure.

Once it was together I tried it on, the band was ok sitting flat without too many wrinkles, the lower cup however was all wrong. I had a flat section above the wire casing and I was spilling at the top of the cup.

I set about trying to fix this by tacking out the cups and resewing the lower cup with a fractionally bigger seam at the join and a smaller seam at the base where the underwires would be. Sewing the cups back in I tried it on again and it was looking better.

Writing my notes and annotations directly onto the pattern I cut out this pink lace. It’s lined with cream non stretch mesh and for construction I followed the very excellent instructions though in a moment of “what was I thinking?” I managed to sew the wide picot at the base of the band on incorrectly. Something I didn’t notice till I had also sewn in the underwire casing so I just left it. The pretty underarm edge (shown below) made up for my mistake.

Once done I was really happy with how it looked and fit but I wanted to wear it a few times before I decided if it was good enough? After a few wears I’ve noticed

  • yes it is cooler than foam
  • the band fits well apart from the incorrectly sewn on elastic
  • at the side bust the sides come up too far causing chafing and discomfort at the front of the underarm, it’s also visible on some of my dresses
  • I sit a little low in the cup. You want to sit down into the cup so you are correctly encased but there is correct and looking like you need to be pulled up a bit.

After some research I found a great article on Emerald Erin explaining how and why you should shorten the upper cup in order to get more “lift” noting that down along with the other alterations I made plans to cut another.
in the meantime this one is infinitely wearable and very pretty!

Pattern: Harriet Bra by Cloth Habit

Fabrics : lace, mesh back hooks, and underwires from Underwired. Strapping, O ring and sliders, casing and elastics from Pitt Trading.

Alterations for next time : achieve more lift, scoop out underarm

 

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Sewing Adventures – pink lace Emma Slip

This seems to have been one of the hottest summers I can remember, endless days where the heat doesn’t go down at night. I like summer I like the sunshine and being able to go swimming all the time, however, I do like sleeping and lately, it’s been so hot overnight that you just can’t get to sleep. Bedtimes keep getting later and later putting off that inevitable moment where you have to lie on a hot mattress.

Naturally I’m looking to help the situation through sewing. My plan? to make a super lightweight version of the Emma Slip and this pretty stretch lace from Pitt Trading is just the kind of thing I was thinking of.

I’ve made this one to the suggested length for the size 12, I often cut them longer because I like the silhouette that way but this time it’s shorter, it’s the 14 skirt width attached to the 12 bodice and I’ve shortened the cup by about 1cm at the centre front where they cross over. I’m quite high busted (short person proportions) and I was getting a little ripple at that point due to excess fabric so the shortening of the cup takes care of that.

One of the things I really strove for when developing the Emma slip was that it would be a pretty fast make and this one certainly was. The most fiddly bit is attaching the O rings and sliders to the straps.

Pattern: The Emma Slip by Measure Twice Cut Once

Fabric: Pink stretch lace from Pitt Trading

Alterations: shortened front cup, 14 skirt width, 12 skirt length

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Sewing Adventures – Seamwork Almada

I love this robe, its such a lovely shape and so very very fast to put together. It’s the Seamwork Almada. If you ever need a speedy present then this should be your go to pattern.

This one was made for a present for a family member from a lovely silk viscose at Pitt Trading.

Surprisingly the fabric wasn’t every shifty at all, I had been expecting it to move a lot but because it has a slight crepe like texture to it I found it remarkably easy to handle. However I was sure to use a brand new fine sharps needle as it did not like a heavy needle at all.

I cut approximately a medium but kept the arms and body length as long as possible as I was making for someone much taller than I am. This robe can come up short so be careful of that if you are using it.

Using French seams I joined the front to the back at shoulder seams, side seams and then attached the sleeve cuffs so no seam edges were visible and topstitched on the front ties. Learning from the last time I made this I cut the ties to the length they are meant to be. On my own one, I made them longer and spend 95% of my time tripping over them or untangling the cat after she has been on my lap.

The pattern calls to just turn the front edge under and topstitch down but I find that always turns back and doesn’t look good for such a luxe garment. Using a polyester satin store bias binding I went all the way around the neck and hem, there is a slight amount of roping visible but I think it will press out. I really didn’t want to unpick the fabric as I needed to get it in the post pre Christmas so just accepted it and moved on.

So there it is, a speedy pattern that makes for a great present. I’m already thinking more people will be getting a version of this next Christmas!

Pattern: Seamwork Almada

Fabric: Silk Viscose from Pitt Trading.

Alterations: French seams, bias at decline, cut longest length and arms

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Emma Bralet versions by Lifewithmycubs

One of the main reasons I do Everyone Deserves Pretty Lingerie week is because I really do think everyone does. They are such a fast make and can be used as stash busters to use up leftovers from other makes or a chance to indulge in some beautiful lace and trims. Because you need so little you can actually make your own lingerie quite cheaply when compared to designer pieces.

This week Julia from @lifewithmycubs has well and truly caught the lingerie making fever. Each style she makes just keeps topping the last for amazing use of lace and trims.

She picked up all her fabrics and trims from Pitt Trading and all weekend long they are giving a free gift to all online purchases. It’s a beautiful selection of vintage lingerie trims from a factory that was opening in the 50’s and 60’s.

I love how she has showcased the versatility of the looks you can achieve from sporty to cute to luxury in lace.

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Sewing Adventures: Emma Racer Back Slip in lemon and pink

A sweet Emma in lemon and pink! I actually had made this exact version before but lost the garment in the fire and when I discovered I still had some I knew I had to replicate it.

It’s a slinky jersey knit from Pitt Trading with pink lace trim and pink fold over elastic also from Pitt Trading. I love that their range of lace trims is so large you can always find a colour that is going to complement your fabric choices.

Much like my last Emma I’ve gone for a 12 top and graded out to a 14 bottom half. I’ve also been keeping them at the longest length. I’m just liking the silhouette of the longer line.

As you can see from my photos of all my Emma’s I have been trying hard to get better photos. It’s so much easier when you can shoot outside like I did for my Me Made May challenge. Hopefully with some more practice it will get slightly easier. Right now all I can see is the flaws in me and the photo.?

Pattern: The Emma Racer Back slip and bralet from Measure Twice Cut Once

Fabric and trims: slinky jersey, stretch lace and fold over elastic all from Pitt Trading

Alterations: This version made at the longest length on the pattern, see how it goes during sleep before deciding if I should keep it at that length or not?

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Sewing Adventures – Emma Racer Back Slip with lace

Another Emma! this time with added lace. I really like how this one turned out, I made the variation with the lace and like how the black lace works so well with the darker style print.

The fabric was picked up at the Sydney Spoolettes first fabric swap of 2018 (2nd from the top in this photo. It was smallish but you need so little for this pattern that I knew I could make it work. It’s super soft and the original owner said she got it from Knit Wit in Perth.

It’s slightly firmer across my stomach where I’m lopsidedly swollen after surgery but am not worried as thats something that is unique to me and not the pattern fitting incorrectly.

Since my last version I’ve sized down the bust area to a size 12 but kept the body at a 14 but apart from that no other changes.

One of the reasons I wanted to do a racer back slip is that I am a very wriggly sleeper. Normally slips fall off my shoulders and I get all tangled up in them. This narrow curving back fits perfectly and stops the slip from moving off me as I wriggle in my sleep. A great solution that also looks flattering.

I also got to use my overstitch machine for the hem, was very exciting. Am still in the early stages of knowing all the ins and outs of the machine but so far very impressed.

Pattern: The Emma Slip by Measure Twice Cut Once

Fabric: Sydney Spoolettes fabric swap 2018 and black fold over elastic and lace from Pitt Trading

Alterations or changes for next time: None