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April 2022 Unboxing of The Lingerie Society subscription sewing box from Pitt Trading

Join me, Susan as I unbox the April box from The Lingerie Society a sewing subscription box from Pitt Trading.

I’ll talk you through what’s in this months box offering hints and advice on how to use the pieces.

Join in to chat all things Lingerie Sewing. See more of my sewing and shop patterns at https://measuretwicecutonce.com.au​

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What I’m wearing – Self drafted dress pattern in Outback Wife Barkcloth fabric

Earrings – Made by Maddie store

Nail Polish – Everlong by Hanami

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Sewing Adventures – Lexington Bras

Some things are impatient and just push their way to the front of the sewing queue, these bras were certainly one of the ones that jumped the list. With the pandemic continuing and the potential for more lockdowns coming the need for some comfortable work from home bras was increased.

I’ve made the Lexington Bra from Orange Lingerie twice before. The first time was as the pattern was as, the second time I split the lower cup to add in a little more volume. This time I kept the volume on the lower cup and shortened the lower cup, front triangle and back bands by 5mm.

On the ones I had made previously I was finding towards the end of the day the lower elastic had flipped up. At first I put this down to it being too tight but after some investigation I realised the bra was too long for me. I’m only 5 foot tall. I’m well used to having to adjust patterns to my proportions. In hindsight it’s actually surprising I didn’t pick this up earlier.

Technique wise I tried something new, using my overstitch machine I attached the elastic using the single needle chainstitch. The outside looks so neat and I’m so pleased, the inside I’m less pleased with as the loops of the chain stitch shows up so much on the mesh. I’m hoping it wears well but am already thinking I’d like to try the wide twin needle to attach the elastic with as well. It’s always neat to be able to keep trying and learning new things.

As it is a few hours sewing, 2 more beautiful bras and my lingerie drawer is well on it’s way to being the riot of pattern and colour I’ve always wanted. As always I’m using what I have on hand so the back clasp on the blue one isn’t 100% the correct shade of blue and on the blue/grey I went with a contrast of a peach closure. I love the fact it’s not 100% matching as I feel better about having something using up what I have already.

Pattern: Lexington Bra by Orange Lingerie

Fabric: patterned mesh, power mesh and lightweight mesh, elastics, hardware all from Pitt Trading, back clasp from Booby Traps

Alterations: so far pretty good but lets see how these ones wear in

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Sewing Adventures – Lexington Bra in Sports Lycra

Before I get into the making of this bra I’m going to say “wow it’s hard to take a decent photo of a bra”. The cups look all wrinkly, the straps never sit straight. It’s just really hard. I have a dressmaking dummy but she is only a size 10, I am not a 10 so I can’t use it for photos so I have to do a flat lay and every time I’m less than happy with the results. Hints, tips and suggestions for better pics eagerly welcomed.

Now onto the bra. It’s an Orange Lingerie Lexington Bra. my last one can be found here, I like how it fits, the shape it gives and the fact I can wear it all day without being uncomfortable or looking like I’m not wearing a bra. However the front x doesn’t sit flat to chest. Which it should. I researched a bit, read some great debates on the Bra forum on facebook and experimented a little.

In the end I decided to try adding a small amount of volume to the lower cup. Hoping that this meant I sat into the cup more reducing the strain on the central x allowing it to sit flat to my body. This teal blue and patterned version is a working test of this pattern to see if my idea was correct.

As with my last version it has lined cups but regular stretch fabric over. This sports mesh has a greater stretch so I’m also keen to see how that reacts to being worn all day. The fabric is actually a moisture wicking performance fabric available at Pitt Trading which was gifted to me by my friend @lizardbookworm it feels perfectly smooth and lovely colours so it was fun to match with a bright teal elastic I had in the stash.

Am looking forward to seeing how it wears and what my next version will be like.

After wearing my verdict is the adjustment to the lower cup has worked well but the sports mesh while super comfortable isn’t quite as supportive as the mesh in my last version. Expect to see another version soon!

Pattern: Orange Lingerie Lexington Bra

Fabric: Pitt Trading for fabric, hardware and elastics. Back hook and eye from Booby Traps

Alterations: added volume to lower cup

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Sewing Adventures – Hail spot printed mesh Harriet Bra

My goal is to replenish my entire lingerie wardrobe so I have correctly fitting bras that are comfortable and pretty! So it’s another Harriet bra.

This is a printed hail spot mesh that I got from Pitt Trading, it’s greens and purples printed on a white base so I paired it with a white picot, white power mesh back and white hook eye closure. I had planned for the bottom of the front to be white as the print had this wonderful straight line where the print started. I’d decided to use this as a feature so the bottom would be white to match all the trims together.

Unfortunately I used a non stretch mesh as the cradle lining. it’s in a colour that matches my skin tone and normally looks quite invisible. except apparently under this mesh because instead of looking transparent it changed the tone of the hail spot mesh to be much more tan and completely lose the impact of the white line. It now just looked dirty and like I had cut it badly. At this stage I almost recut but decided no at the very least it’s still wearable even if it’s not visually how I wanted.

Because we are currently trying to stay at home and not go out I’m using only what I have in the house to finish off projects. I’m not going out just to get matching elastics. So when I realised I didn’t have enough wider plush elastic for the lower band I improvised. My improvisation included the same width picot as I’d use for the cups and then a decorative topstitch of some strapping elastic in green. Not only did it add strength to that lower band it also helped cover up the non white, white panel at the bottom of the cradle. It works quite well and was a good solution given the situation.

After my disaster sewing on my last Harriet I really wanted to pay attention to my sewing and get a neater finish. I think I did ok at this but always there is room for improvement (I see you non clipped section on left hand side!)

Eagle eyed bra makers will also see there is no lining in my upper cup. I’ve tried this a few times and the non lined section is much more comfortable for me, I also find if I do add a lining in there I can end up with a quad boob look which is not a look anyone wants.

As always I’ve used a mix of colours, fabrics and trims to try and create a harmonious overall colour scheme. Even on a more muted colour scheme like this one I wanted to mix up the elements to bring something else to the style so that it felt more like my style. I’m super keen to make matching knickers for this one because I think it’s going to be a fun challenge.

Pattern: Harriet Bra from Cloth Habit

Fabric: Printed mesh, white power mesh, elastics from at Pitt Trading. Underwires, hook and eye from Underwired.co

Alterations: now that I have my fit working for me I’m at the stage where I can just cut and make which is quite fun

 

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Sewing Adventures – Harriet Bra – Mint and Pink Edition

This whole bra could be used a lesson in something you really wanted to be excellent but some silly mistakes and sewing while tired means that it just falls short of your expectations.

It’s the Harriet Bra from Cloth Habit with the adjustments mentioned here and here. Essentially this is meant to be the same as the blue printed mesh version I made but here are just some of the mistakes I made

  • I forgot to sew the bride SA smaller to give me a wider bridge
  • in my haste I sewed lining into the app cups which gave me a lovely quad boob look till I figured out what I had done wrong and cut it out. Fixing the quad boob look but leaving me a slightly irritating upper cup seam
  • forgetting to change the colour thread back correctly and sewing one at night and one during the day which means the underarm is sewn on in 2 different thread colours
  • instead of placing the bra flat before cutting off the casing at the underarm I cut it while holding it, resulting in cutting it straight and not on the angle to line with with the elastic. Had to rescue it/sew it closed with some stitching below the elastic

Honestly I know it’s all small stuff but it looks so pretty and then I see the issues and just shake my head at myself. Don’t sew while tired/stressed/annoyed at yourself.

Apart from the issues it looks amazing and I really like the fit. With a limited amount of lace I feel like I managed to cut it so it looks like it was planned that way and not just a result of “making it work” I’ll definitely be using similar methods in the future.

Pattern: Cloth Habit Harriet Bra – with fitting modifications

Fabric: Mint Powermesh, hot pink lace, strapping all from stash but originally from Pitt Trading.

Alterations: Slow down, take more care!

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Sewing Adventures: another lingerie set

Not content with giving my friend one matching set of lingerie I thought I’d add another not quite a set to her parcel.

After the success of sewing the Delphine thong I decided to try another one, this time in a soft stretch lace and without the additional back coverage.

The lace from Pitt Trading is so lovely to work with but was so soft that the very end of the plate on my sewing machine was catching ever so slightly as it went though.

A quick fix was to use some wide washi tape to cover the plate and hey presto! Snag free sewing.

I really I thought the thong would pair perfectly with a plain black satin bra but as I was running out of time to get it finished in I cheated a little. In my teaching bag I often have samples of pieces that are not quite finished so I can show students diffferent steps along the way. A bit of a rummage through the bag and I found this black lace triangle that only needed a little bit of finishing off.

Together they make a nice not quite matching set.

Pattern: Delphine thong by Ohhh Lulu, my own pattern for the triangle bra

Fabric: Laces from Pitt Trading, elastics and trims from my stash

Alterations: None

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Sewing Adventures: Euler bra and Delphine thong

Recently a friend was lamenting the lack of cool lingerie that covered the tummy and yet still looked youthful. Naturally I knew I could sew a solution and because it was for a friend I knew I’d make her a matching set.

The Euler bra by Sophie Hines was an obvious choice as I’ve made it before and the shape is so modern it automatically makes any set look very contemporary.

It also gave me a good excuse to buy the Delphine high waist thong by Ohhh Lulu  I’d seen it on instagram and liked the shape, plus I thought it would fulfill the covered tummy option my friend wanted.

The Euler went together with no problems at all, I did add a touch of lace trim to the cup seam just to make it match the knickers a little more. The fabric is a sensitive jersey from Pitt Trading. Elastics and trims from my stash.

Delphine was easy to sew once I checked the instructions! I went with the added lace covered back and initially had the thong pinned in the wrong section. That looked odd so I checked the instructions, realised my mistake and once I had it attached in the right place it all went together well. It really is a lovely pattern and I was so pleased with how  they look.

I really like the lace across the back and think its super flattering as well as a great way to use up smaller lace leftovers or splash out on a small amount of a very fancy lace.

Pattern: Euler bra by Sophie Hines and Delphine Thong by Ohhh Lulu

Fabric: burgundy sensitive Lycra from Pitt Trading, lace from Pitt Trading, elastics and trims from my stash

Alterations: added lace to cup seam of Euler Bra

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Sewing Adventures – Sophie Hines Euler Bra

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I saw this pattern on instagram last week and just had to have it. It’s the first pattern from designer Sophie Hines, while this is her first sewing pattern she has been making and selling lingerie for some time and has this laid back sporty luxe style that’s super sexy without the raunch factor. The colour aesthetic Sophie uses is super minimal and really beautiful in these muted type tones.

Image of Euler Bra - Sewing Pattern

I wanted to whip up a quick wearable toile and so decided to make a swimsuit version using these lush lycras from Pitt Trading. So in keeping with my regular style why pick just one print when you can use ALL THE PRINTS.

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The pattern offers 2 versions, a single hook/clasp back or a double hook/clasp back. I chose the double as I thought it would be cute?

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After measuring myself and comparing it to the sizes I cut a size Large. Sizing is done as per garment sizing not cup sizing which I think is fine for soft cup bras.

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Sewing was fairly straightforward. I used my overlocker for all seams and then straight stitched on the elastic. The instructions are written more than illustrated so have a read through before you get sewing and just refer back to the original garment photos and you will be fine.

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I used what hardware I had on hand and took the opportunity to try some metal hardware and a plastic O ring too. I wanted to see how they will go in the water so snuck in a mismatched set so I can compare and contrast how they wear.
Everything went together easily and I like the fact it’s all lined as it makes it super smooth on the inside. I can see myself making more of these for sure. Am already thinking a soft bamboo jersey lined one would be great for summer.

Fabric: printed lycras from Pitt Trading, lightweight jersey lining from Pitt Trading

Trims: Elastic and hardware from the stash

Pattern: Sophie Hines Euler Bra

Alterations: none