swimmers – Measure Twice Cut Once

Posted on 14/03/201610/03/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 5 Comments

Sewing Adventures – Soma Swimsuit and Bikini

Over this summer I’ve been making plenty of swimsuits. I’ve taken up paddleboarding which I find it wonderfully relaxing and enjoyable. With views like this it would be hard not to. It also means new outfits were needed.

I enjoy making swimmers and it’s so nice to use the gorgeous prints from Pitt Trading.

One of the styles I tried was the Soma pattern from Papercut patterns. I measured myself, I measured the patterns, I went by the guide and I cut myself the one piece.

It’s huge. Like 2 or 3 sizes too big. It uses none of the lycras stretch at all. When I try it on it feels slack and if I added water it would most certainly fall down. The back gapes open as the cross over straps are not tight enough to sit flat. It’s clearly way too big.

Not too discouraged I cut out the bikini. I went down a few sizes and tried them on part way through the process and took them in some more. This worked much better, the stretch of the fabric was now being used and they sat firmly. I’d say I ended up cutting an XS which is a bit shocking as I’m not an extra small size.

This photos is before I added the straps.

Now for the true test, in the water. The bottoms were quite good. I have a slight issue at the lower leg at the back, the elastic tends to fold back when I walk, swim or paddleboard. Not a huge problem but I like my swimmers to stay in place during activities. The bottoms come up nice and high and give good waist coverage.

DCIM119GOPRO — This is a GoPro photo from when I’m out paddleboarding. I like the fish eye effect but it makes for terrible selfies, hence the no photos of me in the bikini shots.

The top was ok, if I make it again I’d potentially do a Full Bust adjustment as I felt less than secure and covered while swimming and moving around. Not badly but just felt like I wanted to keep hiking the top up as I didn’t feel support/covered enough?
Overall the patterns went together well and the instructions were clear. However the sizing doesn’t seem to take into account the stretch of the fabric adequately? I’d certainly recommend trying on your swimwear mid way through your sewing process and adjust as necessary.

The fold over elastic for the one piece makes getting a neat edge super easy and is a great technique.

Fabric: Lycra from Pitt Trading

Pattern: Papercut Patterns Soma swimsuit as one piece and bikini.

Alterations: One Piece – size down a few sizes, fill in back panel and not have the thin cross over straps. More support there would be helpful in not having the swimsuit move around so much during activities.

Bikini – full bust adjustment on top and potentially add to the cups to give more of a full coverage? Reshape lower back leg so it doesn’t fold over.

Posted on 24/08/201518/01/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 2 Comments

Sewing Adventures: Nookie bikini

When you wake up to a cold, grey and wet day with a to do list that is a mile long, well naturally you shove all that aside and make a swimsuit sample don’t you?

Years ago one of the very first issues of Frankie magazine came with a free swimsuit pattern. This pattern has been languishing in my stash since then.

The pattern was based on a bikini by Nookie an Australian based swimsuit brand. The construction is remarkably straight forward. Cut out matching panels, stretch stitch them together and turn them out to create a reversible bikini.

Made with more of the lush lycra from Pitt Trading I opted for a pink bandana style print on one side and a tropical floral for the other side. I’d actually be super tempted to make either of these into a one piece as well because I like the prints so much.

The top worked really well and fits me fairly well (though I was way too cold to photograph myself in it. Later in the summer will be sure to get some poolside pics).

The bow in the centre is slightly smaller on me and I didn’t gather the sides as much to give myself a bit more coverage. But it’s as good as any ready to wear bikini I already own.

The pants are ok. A little lower at the front than I would prefer.

They are held up with the side bows as there is no elastic in the waist.

This feels a little flimsy. Possibly ok if you were just dunking yourself under water and then sitting on the beach but if you actually wanted to swim or dive or move around then there could be some problems? I’m also not keen on the roll top look you get with reversible bottoms.

It just seems really sloppy and like bad DIY. Certainly not a finish I would aspire to. I might see how unpicking the top and inserting some clear elastic into the seam goes?

Pattern: Nookie bikini free from Frankie magazine

Alterations: didn’t make self fabric straps but used a matte elastic instead.

Fabric: Printed polyester Lycra provided by Pitt Trading Thanks for letting me have some of your lovely fabric to play with. It’s so soft and lush feeling but goes through the machine like a super stable knit.

Am really enjoying making swimsuits, will have to find some more patterns to try out!

Posted on 04/08/201518/01/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 3 Comments

Sewing Adventures – Alison Swimsuit

Wow just wow, I almost don’t have words for how bad the instructions and pattern for these BurdaStyle Alison swimmers are. I expect Burda instructions to be brief and I’m fine with that as I rarely read pattern instructions to begin with. But when the pattern pieces themselves are mislabeled, missing information, have spelling mistakes and in some cases have no label at all. Well I was skeptical.

That skepticism was warranted. So I threw out the instructions, labelled the pattern pieces correctly and got cutting. These swimmers are going to be an instore sample for Pitt Trading. I work there a few days a week and they just took delivery of the most amazing collection of designer lycra.

This floral is beautiful, has a beautiful thick handfeel but with good drape and stretch. The print is on the oversize side so grab a little extra to ensure you can centre your print for maximum impact. I matched it with a contrast colour to emphasise the bust gathers and wide straps.

My lovely model here is a few sizes smaller than what I made so she isn’t filling out the bust or bottom quite right. I’m not happy at all with the wide band at the lower back gaping. I think I perhaps I need to stretch it some more or possibly it flattens out on someone with more curves?

The way I’ve added the band to the swimsuit and then up into the neck ties is not great. It looks clean but it just felt overly complex to sew. It’s one of the areas I’ll take a look at to improve construction of the next time.

I overlocked the leg opening with elastic then turned it under and added a 3 step zig zag topstitch. It was so neat and easy that I’m using it as my go to swimwear finish.

Despite the pattern dramas I think it’s a really cute swimsuit. I’m hoping I get some time to write down my method of assembly so I can remember what I did when I make another pair.