Swimwear – Measure Twice Cut Once

Posted on 21/04/2025 by Susan Goodwin — Leave a comment

Sewing Adventures – Matching Rash vests

Due to an enormous backlog of finished projects to share, I’ve decided to dive right in and not adhere to strict chronological order. Mostly because if I don’t start now I never will and also because it doesn’t matter when they were made only that they were made! So let’s get to it!

A trip to Fiji (2023) is a pretty mind blowing thing to prepare for, not only is it not the normal type of holiday for us to go on it was also preceded with a super busy time period. Having now been on the holiday it was amazing, we loved it and would do again!

Being the water lover that I am I knew I’d be in as much as I could and thought a second long sleeve rash vest would help protect me from the sun. Using Jalie Valerie I quickly whipped one up from this gorgeous pink swim lycra from the stash (originally from Pitt Trading now The Makers Society) my only changes were to make the arms longer than I normally do and make the neck band slightly wider.

and yes hats and sunglasses in the water were very necessary for anyone wanting to avoid some sun. The water is very calm so it’s not like you are going to lose everything when a wave hits you or anything like that.

Sewing wise I did the entire of the seams using my overlocker and then hemmed the sleeves and body using my coverstitch machine, super speedy nice and secure.

In some of these photos I’m wearing my previously made Jalie Valerie in a white and blue floral lycra also from The Makers Society.

At the last minute the day before we flew I decided to make one for The Englishman in whatever I had on hand which was some navy swim lycra and some athletic lycra in a sharkskin type print for the side panels.

Am so glad I did because we practically lived in these things as we explored the waters around the resort. we had an absolutely wonderful time and we didn’t get sunburnt so winning all around.

Can also highly recommend reef shoes, these are a neoprene upper with a rubber base and it made climbing through rock pools or traversing sand littered with coral a breeze. A must for anyone who wants to explore and swim.

Pattern: Valerie from Jalie – made my sleeves longer and wider neck band for me (in a previous version I have blended the sizing from my bust size out to my waist and hip. I found doing this stops it from riding up while paddleboarding, this is now my base pattern I use), no changes for The Englishman

Fabric: embroidered cotton lawn and plain cotton lawn both from the stash originally from Pitt Trading

Changes: pattern changes as noted above

Posted on 23/10/2020 by Susan Goodwin — 2 Comments

My first paper pattern!

It’s a big day, today I release my first paper pattern! It’s been a long journey to get here and I’m very excited.

The pattern is the Maree swimsuit. A great beginner piece to get started on your way to sewing all the swimsuits. I released it some time ago as a digital copy and it’s been a firm favourite since then. It will always be available as a digital option so you can choose which you prefer.

Sizing for this pattern is Australia size 6 to 18. It will not be released as a plus size. Sure I could grade it up and tell you it would work as a plus pattern but I know it won’t. It doesn’t have the necessary structure expected of a plus size swimsuit and trying to retro fit that in now would be disingenuous. I’m not going to give you an inferior plus pattern just by making something bigger, I’m continuing to work on my plus patterns and blocks and when they are ready they will be released digitally.

To start with paper patterns will be sent out each Wednesday, I’m getting them printed on demand here in Sydney. This means we don’t have to carry much stock and it helps give local people a job in a time when everyone needs as much help as they can get it. By shipping once a week it also helps me limit my times I need to leave the house, which I’m still keeping to a minimum despite the situation in Australia being better than it is in other places.

I can’t wait to hear what you all think, please don’t hesitate to drop me a message or leave a comment.

Susan

Posted on 04/04/201929/05/2019 by Susan Goodwin — Leave a comment

New Pattern, the Maree Swimsuit!

There’s a new swimsuit pattern available, the Maree Swimsuit Pattern!

Maree is a classic 70’s style halter swimsuit that offers a full coverage bottom and a gathered top. Perfect for laid back days by secluded bays.

One piece swimsuit featuring gathered halter neck and full coverage bottom. Available sizes 6 to 18.

Suitable for swimwear stretch knits with spandex/elastane/lycra only. Must have a high degree of stretch in at least 2 directions.

All fabrics used in these samples available for purchase at Pitt Trading.

You are purchasing a digital pattern. You will receive a download link for instructions, PDF multipage A4/Letter, PDF Copy Shop format.

Please Note: PDF patterns are given as a zip file and some mobile devices cannot unzip them. If you are having issues use a computer to unzip the file and then save the files individually. Or save directly to a file service such as Dropbox or Google Drive.

Posted on 13/03/201819/06/2019 by Susan Goodwin — Leave a comment

Swimwear patterns instore now!

Today I’ve added another swim style to the ever increasing range of swimwear options available by Measure Twice Cut Once.

The new style is Agnes, she joins Henrietta and Anne. All available now in the swimwear section of the Pattern shop.

All patterns are available in sizes 6 to 18, come as downloadable PDF’s with instructions, A0 copy shop file, A4/Letter print at home file. Sewing swimwear is so much fun, with a few tricks and tips you will be making professional looking pieces in no time. Plus it’s fast so that’s a huge plus for time impatient sewers!

Grab a pattern and get sewing today you will not regret it.

Posted on 21/06/201721/06/2017 by Susan Goodwin — 2 Comments

Sewing Adventures: Sewing for presents or when I forget how to sew for tall people

Do you make gifts for the family? I try to make as many as I can and for Christmas 2016 there was a definite swimsuit theme happening. I’ve already shared the roarsome suit I made my niece and the cute rashie I made for my nephew.

This swimsuit had slightly less success. It’s the Alison by Burdastyle which I’ve made before here. The pattern has plenty of issues but the style is cute so I thought I’d whip one up for The Englishman’s sister.

Fabric was the easy part using these great prints from Pitt Trading.

I already had H’s measurements so I cut her size in the width and went for the longest length as she is quite tall. Sadly it wasn’t quite enough length! They came up too short in the overall length, a clear case of me being short and forgetting just how tall she is. Rather than send them back I told her to find a shorter friend to give them to and I’ll make her a new pair.

I didn’t get a great pic before I sent the parcel off but I made a coverup to go with the swimsuit. I thought it would be handy getting to and from the beach or the pool?

This embroidered white cotton voile, another Pitt Trading fabric was perfect. It has this amazing border to it which kind of did all the work for the garment. I kept it simple and used the Named Asaka kimono pattern. The only change to the pattern was to cut the sleeves on the fold to take out the nice split sleeve that normally features in the garment. Seeing as how I wanted a sun protective garment I thought it best to cover up the slit. To help secure the cover up I added a decorative white and gold cord as waist tie.

Pattern: Burda Allison swimsuit, Named Asaka Kimono

Alterations: add length to the body of the swimsuit

Fabric: Fabric and trims for both from Pitt Trading

Posted on 29/11/201628/11/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 2 Comments

Sewing Adventures – Roarsome swimsuit

Sometimes a fabric is just so roarsome you have to have it.

When this panel came into Pitt Trading I knew it would make the perfect swimsuit (or should that be purrfect). I’m in the midst of my Christmas present list and knew one of my nieces would love this.

I made up a swimsuit block for her age and got to cutting. Using a lightweight interfacing I could see through it to place the face in the correct position.

For the back I added a centre back seam purely so I could cut the back out of the sides of the panel and use the remainder of the panel for another swimsuit.

To keep it smooth on the inside it is fully lined with all seams enclosed. Clear elastic was overlocked onto the legs, arms and neckline then turned under and topstitched with triple stitch zig zag. This was not so great, occasionally my machine would clog on the bobbin. This normally doesn’t happen at all so it was somewhat frustrating. It’s fine but not perfect and that’s somewhat annoying for me.

I only wish I could be there Christmas morning when she opens it up!

Fabric: Nylon Spandex panel and swimwear lining from Pitt Trading

Trims: clear elastic from the stash

Pattern: my own

Alterations for next time: fix the topstitching!

Posted on 08/11/201608/11/2016 by Susan Goodwin — Leave a comment

Come sew Swimwear with me at Bobbin and Ink

Summer is coming and I couldn’t be more excited. Long days of sunshine to be filled with food, friends, adventures and swimming. Sewing wise this means lots of swimsuits and now you have the chance to join me to make your own swimsuit.
I’ll be teaching a class at Bobbin and Ink. Spread over multiple Sundays you can bring along any pattern you wish and by the end of the class our aim is for you to leave with a finished swimsuit! Yay!
So here are just a few of the options you could come and make
Papercut Patterns Soma Swimsuit

Named Patterns Beverly Twisted Bikini

Closet case files Sophie Swimsuit

Burda Alison Swimsuit

McCalls 7417 you can order all the following patterns direct through Bobbin and Ink

Butterick B6358

Lisette B6360

For each of your swimsuits be sure to read the exact requirements on your patterns but in general you are going to need

Fabric
Lining
Elastic suitable for swimwear
Thread
You’ll want a fabric that is suitable for swimwear so start searching out some stretch fabric. Pitt Trading has a fabulous selection of designer pieces.
I’d also suggest bringing along some tracing paper so we can do any alterations you need to your pattern without ruining your original pattern.
To book into your class head on over to Bobbin and Ink, see you there!

Posted on 25/10/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 2 Comments

Sewing Adventures – Sophie Hines Euler Bra

I saw this pattern on instagram last week and just had to have it. It’s the first pattern from designer Sophie Hines, while this is her first sewing pattern she has been making and selling lingerie for some time and has this laid back sporty luxe style that’s super sexy without the raunch factor. The colour aesthetic Sophie uses is super minimal and really beautiful in these muted type tones.

I wanted to whip up a quick wearable toile and so decided to make a swimsuit version using these lush lycras from Pitt Trading. So in keeping with my regular style why pick just one print when you can use ALL THE PRINTS.

The pattern offers 2 versions, a single hook/clasp back or a double hook/clasp back. I chose the double as I thought it would be cute?

After measuring myself and comparing it to the sizes I cut a size Large. Sizing is done as per garment sizing not cup sizing which I think is fine for soft cup bras.

Sewing was fairly straightforward. I used my overlocker for all seams and then straight stitched on the elastic. The instructions are written more than illustrated so have a read through before you get sewing and just refer back to the original garment photos and you will be fine.

I used what hardware I had on hand and took the opportunity to try some metal hardware and a plastic O ring too. I wanted to see how they will go in the water so snuck in a mismatched set so I can compare and contrast how they wear.
Everything went together easily and I like the fact it’s all lined as it makes it super smooth on the inside. I can see myself making more of these for sure. Am already thinking a soft bamboo jersey lined one would be great for summer.

Fabric: printed lycras from Pitt Trading, lightweight jersey lining from Pitt Trading

Trims: Elastic and hardware from the stash

Pattern: Sophie Hines Euler Bra

Alterations: none

Posted on 14/03/201610/03/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 5 Comments

Sewing Adventures – Soma Swimsuit and Bikini

Over this summer I’ve been making plenty of swimsuits. I’ve taken up paddleboarding which I find it wonderfully relaxing and enjoyable. With views like this it would be hard not to. It also means new outfits were needed.

I enjoy making swimmers and it’s so nice to use the gorgeous prints from Pitt Trading.

One of the styles I tried was the Soma pattern from Papercut patterns. I measured myself, I measured the patterns, I went by the guide and I cut myself the one piece.

It’s huge. Like 2 or 3 sizes too big. It uses none of the lycras stretch at all. When I try it on it feels slack and if I added water it would most certainly fall down. The back gapes open as the cross over straps are not tight enough to sit flat. It’s clearly way too big.

Not too discouraged I cut out the bikini. I went down a few sizes and tried them on part way through the process and took them in some more. This worked much better, the stretch of the fabric was now being used and they sat firmly. I’d say I ended up cutting an XS which is a bit shocking as I’m not an extra small size.

This photos is before I added the straps.

Now for the true test, in the water. The bottoms were quite good. I have a slight issue at the lower leg at the back, the elastic tends to fold back when I walk, swim or paddleboard. Not a huge problem but I like my swimmers to stay in place during activities. The bottoms come up nice and high and give good waist coverage.

DCIM119GOPRO — This is a GoPro photo from when I’m out paddleboarding. I like the fish eye effect but it makes for terrible selfies, hence the no photos of me in the bikini shots.

The top was ok, if I make it again I’d potentially do a Full Bust adjustment as I felt less than secure and covered while swimming and moving around. Not badly but just felt like I wanted to keep hiking the top up as I didn’t feel support/covered enough?
Overall the patterns went together well and the instructions were clear. However the sizing doesn’t seem to take into account the stretch of the fabric adequately? I’d certainly recommend trying on your swimwear mid way through your sewing process and adjust as necessary.

The fold over elastic for the one piece makes getting a neat edge super easy and is a great technique.

Fabric: Lycra from Pitt Trading

Pattern: Papercut Patterns Soma swimsuit as one piece and bikini.

Alterations: One Piece – size down a few sizes, fill in back panel and not have the thin cross over straps. More support there would be helpful in not having the swimsuit move around so much during activities.

Bikini – full bust adjustment on top and potentially add to the cups to give more of a full coverage? Reshape lower back leg so it doesn’t fold over.

Posted on 17/02/201623/05/2019 by Susan Goodwin — 2 Comments

Named Clothing – Beverly Twisted Bikini Sewalong – Top

I hope everyone has been having fun with their swimwear sewing? This is the final installment in the sewalong and it’s been pushed back to today as I had so many requests for more time as people wanted to join in.

Don’t forget to share your makes using the hashtag #SewBeverlyBikini so we can see all your beautiful bikinis.

So let’s get started on the top. The outer of mine will be the same beautiful red paisley I’ve been using for the bottoms and the lining will be the solid darker red I used for the front contrast panel on the bottoms.

Stitch your darts into the outer and lining fabrics

Sew the side seam of the outer panels.

Iron interfacing into the seam allowance of the lining.

Sew the side seam of the lining. Note that the side seam is 2 different widths for the lining. The front panel has 2cm and the back panel has 1cm.

Press the seam towards the back, turn the extra seam allowance of the front panel under to create a little channel.

Stitch the channel down.

Placing the lining and the outer right sides together prepare to sew along the top edges of the panels. Go up one side, along the narrow top edge and down the other side.

As you sew the panels together you will also be attaching in the elastic. I’m using my overlocker and the same method I used for inserting the clear elastic into the pants.

Once you’ve done both sides, turn them right side out.

Take your boning and cut it to length, be sure to cut it shorter than the full length of the channel as there is a seam allowance at the bottom.

Before inserting your boning, quickly run it through a lit match so the flame seals the ends. Then insert it into the channel.

Lay the underbust band down, wrong side up. Matching the notches, line up the 2 front panels and pin into place. Once pinned this line is then stitched.

Fold underbust band in half, tuck under the seam allowance and pin into place.

Topstitch underbust band.

Using a safety pin thread your elastic through the underbust band. Make sure it stays flat and doesn’t twist. Once inserted stitch the elastic in place at either end.

Thread the ends of the underbust band (now with inserted elastic) and thread it through your bikini clasp. Pin in place and then securely stitch. My camera has made my clasp look pink! it’s actually not but just looks weird in photos for some reason?

Try your bikini on, check where the knot is. You may need to secure it with a few stitches. Experiment with different twists to see what suits you best.

and you are done!

This has been so much fun, I hope everyone has enjoyed themselves, learnt some new skills and ended up with beautiful bikinis!

As always if you have any questions just let me know and hopefully I’ll be back soon with a round up of all the fantastic swimwear we’ve created!

Huge thank you to Named Clothing for allowing me to do the sewalong and for providing me with the pattern, also to Pitt Trading for providing my amazing fabrics and trims. Finally thanks to Jillian and Kirsty for asking me to do the sewalong in the first place.