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Sewing Adventures: Patchwork Malvarosa

patchworkmalvarosa_header

Sometimes you have an idea and you know it’s either going to be brilliant or an epic fail. This is one of those times.

I picked up this fabric at a Garage sale, along with a bunch of other, I really liked this piece but it just wasn’t big enough to make a dress. So taking this Gorman skirt as inspiration, I thought I’d try an experiment?

Gorman patchwork skirt

I used the Pauline Alice Malvarosa dress. Cutting the floral on the top and the band for the skirt. Using the scraps of the floral, some blue and black from the stash to create the other panels.

patchwork_Malvarosa_front

The panels were calculated out by dividing the rectangle that creates the skirt up and cutting the number of triangles needed. I didn’t quite have enough of the floral so there is an uneven pattern happening but I don’t think it matters that much.
Attaching it all together using my overlocker, I used  bias binding for the neck and armholes.

patchwork_Malvarosa_back

So after all that maths and cutting and drawing the dress is well, ugly. It’s really a bit weird and not in the good quirky sense. Oh well you live and learn and it’s only fabric.

Pattern: Pauline Alice Malvarosa, made before.

Alterations: Eliminated pockets, eliminated facings, added centre back seam, turned skirt into patchwork panels.

Fabric: Garage sale purchase and from the stash.

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Bra Making – how to DIY your own pattern part 5

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A finished bra, a properly finished bra.

bra 1

For this version I’ve gone with a plain woven cotton fabric for the cups, cradle and bridge. Seams are covered with some pretty bias tape and white mesh used for the back. I used some teal coloured underwear elastic from the stash for the edges. Underwires, foam lining and bra strapping were purchased but the O ring, sliders and back fastener were all salvaged from a worn out bra.

bra unfolded

A few people have asked how the plain cotton wears, I find it great to wear and I like the fact I can use up scraps. It’s also a nice stable fabric to sew which can be handy when you are going through a process it’s easier to put some known variables into the mix. So instead of having to deal with a super slinky slippery fabric on top of sorting out tension and fit, it’s easier to use a cotton and perfect the techniques before moving onto harder to deal with fabrics.

After the disaster sewing of the last one I played around with the zig zag stitch on my machine until I perfected the settings. I’ve now got the instructions on how to recreate those settings written in my process notes so I can replicate perfect stitching every time.

I’ve made a few minor alterations notes but want to do some wash and wear tests before I make another one to ensure I’ve got my pattern perfect before I make ALL the bras. For ease of sewing I already know I want to increase one of the seam allowances as it’s so small and fiddly now. Will increase it and trim it to make the sewing easier.

Like all sewing, bra making is not difficult to do but takes time to perfect and I’ve thoroughly enjoyed the process of making my own pattern and creating bras from it.

Seems like more than a few of you have been interested in DIYing your own bra pattern as I’ve had many requests to teach classes on the process. So I’m in the midst of working out the logistics am happy to announce that…

DIY bra classes will be coming soon to Sydney!

Be sure to sign up to the newsletter or follow on instagram to ensure you get first notice about it.

 

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Sewing Adventures: Simplicity 1594 baby clothes

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Early in December my sister had a baby boy!

It’s all very exciting and while she has plenty of clothes for the little guy I thought that something he could wear towards the end of this year as he grows would be a nice addition to his wardrobe. Plus this fabric was just too cute to leave behind.

Simplicity_1594_front

I used Simplicity 1594 which I had picked up in a Spotlight sale while my sister was pregnant thinking it would be cute to make up. The pattern itself comes with options for lots of ruffles or bows but decided to just go plain and add a piping to help break up the fabric.

Simplicity_1594_back

Overall it went together easily but I’m a little disappointed that some of the sewing is not perfect. I rushed it a bit and I feel like I should’ve slowed down and made it better. It’s fine, I just need to be more attentive which is tough during the busy holiday time. Size wise I went with the largest size in anticipation of his growing by the end of the year.

Simplicity_1594

I chose some green vintage buttons to match the adorable vespas in the print. There has been much debate over the animals on the print and if they are rabbits or dogs? I had initially thought rabbit but am thrown by the tail. So perhaps dogs?

They go into the post later in the week, I hope my sister and the little guy like them!

Pattern: Simplicity 1594.

Alterations: Added piping, changed elastic construction on legs, didn’t add ruffles and bows from pattern.

Fabric: Just for Fun by Marisa and Creative Thursday for Andover Fabrics, Pattern 6042, purchased at Pitt Trading. Piping purchased from Greenfields.

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2015 Sewing Goals

2015-sewing-goals

2015, bring it on! Seriously I have been waiting for a new year since about June.

Some parts of 2014 were wonderful and magical but a whole lot of it was kick in your pants drudgery and just when you thought you were done being kicked it happened some more. So there will be no looking back round up of 2014.

I’m all about the future!

So my big goals for 2015

  1. Patterns – this is going to be a big year of patterns. The lingerie line is being expanded, the Basics Collection has some fantastic wardrobe staples being added. There will be at least 2 more ranges being introduced this year and extras on top of that. All very exciting.
  2. Coats – yes it’s hot and steamy right now in Sydney and yet I’m researching coats. As many of you know we alternate our Christmas’s. One here in Australia and one in England. All going well 2015 is English Christmas and that means cold weather. My winter coat is old and shabby looking and The Englishman needs one. So new coats all round.
  3. Embrace new fabrics, colours and silhouettes. It’s fair to say I own more than my fair share of pretty fit and flare dresses. And I love them, but I also want to wear other stuff. So this year I’m going to investigate different silhouettes and shapes and maybe even use a non patterned fabric! I’ve also got some special technical fabrics I’m looking to use and I’m currently in love with lace so expect to see some of that popping up too.
  4. Stash bust – am going big this time. Going to clean out a bunch of stuff and sell it, donate it or just plain old give it away. I need less “stuff” and some of this fabric is never going to get made up so its better that it is going to go.
  5. Boundaries – this is a big one, but I’m not doing alterations for people this year. I love being thought of as useful and stupidly offer all the time. Reality is I’m too busy and I’m lazy, so it never gets done and then I feel guilty and it all ends up in a mess. So this year boundaries are being set and I’m going to practise saying no.
  6. Drawing –  for pure joy of it, I am going back to fashion illustrations. I do all my garment drawings on the computer but almost stopped hand drawing a few years back when my RSI/Carpel tunnel got really bad. It however is going well so I’m going back to drawing. I’m thinking  mix of hand and computer drawing to help protect my wrist. I expect the drawings to be terrible but the experience to be wonderful so that’s pretty much a WIN.
  7. Work on my health and fitness. Now don’t worry this isn’t about to become a fitness blog. It’s just one of my goals and you might see an occasional scenic photo from a run turn up on instagram. After being sick last year and having a lot of stress it’s left me carrying more weight than is healthy for me. So I’m working on it and if I write it down here then it gives me yet more incentive to make it happen.
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Bra making – how to DIY your own pattern part 4

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I’ve had my pattern and supplies ready to go for weeks and have been so busy it’s had to just sit there taunting me to hurry up and make it. So today I set aside some time to sew up my bra.
Before I got started I

  • made sure I had all my pattern pieces
  • got out all my supplies
  • looked at the photos I took before unpicking my bra
  • looked at another bra that is virtually identical to the one I unpicked
  • placed a notebook and a pen by my machine

Then I started cutting and assembling the bra. Along the way I made sure to note when seams didn’t quite match up. Seam allowance sizes and could I make adjustments. I took copious amounts of notes on how I sewed it together and what I needed to change.

All this note taking and referencing is really important if you want to make multiple bras and it helps when it comes to fitting. If you’ve adjusted a seam allowance and then it’s tight you can figure out where the issue occurred.

Overall I felt I was going really well. Then my machine which is normally an absolute angel decided it was not going to sew any mesh fabric without skipping all over the place. Cue 4 hours of me cleaning and testing the machine over and over to try and get a decent result. Nope it looks like a dogs breakfast. It’s quite possibly the worst stitching I have ever done (and now there are photos of it on the internet).

half done bra

A half done bra, only the right side (when wearing) of the bra has an underwire in it, no straps, no closures but plenty of dodgy stitching. Want a close up of the stitching? Sure why not?

bad stitching

So very very bad. It’s skipping, puckering and just horrible.

underwire v non wire

On this style the shape of the cup looks very very odd until the underwire casing and then the underwire is inserted. It then magically pops up to the correct shape. It really shows just how much of the shape of a bra is down to every individual component working together.

inside cup with underwire

The inside of the cup with the underwire. Next time I’m going to cover the inside of the foam. It’s nice and soft as is I just think the extra finishing detail might be nice?

inside cup without underwire

Here you can see the odd shape the cup is before the casing and underwire is put into place. It’s also pretty cool in that the casing actually hides all those raw edges. Over in the side of the photo you can see where I need to adjust the pattern as it was too wide on the back mesh. Looking back on my notes I had added a double lot of seam allowance by accident. It really is so handy to take notes when you are attempting a DIY of this sort.

trim

On the outside I used a floral bias binding to cover a dart on the cup and across the tops of each cup. On the original bra instead of bias it was lace. I did try a lace but felt that it got lost on the floral so tried the bias and I really like the look of it. Would love to try it with a high contrast like navy blue satin bias on a cream satin base.

For this stage it’s going well. The only thing holding me back is not wanting to utterly break my machine when it’s clearly having problems. The one big fit problem with bras is that you have to finish one to try it on and see if it fits. Obviously this isn’t at that stage yet but I already have a list of things to improve the construction and look of future bras

  • cover internal of cups
  • use of alternative trims like Bias works
  • back mesh panels need to be adjusted to correct height
  • foam cup panels are slightly too large for fabric pattern size. Re check measurements and adjust
  • add more notches to help line things up more accuraetly
  • regular woven cotton works well as a foam cup covering with no wrinkles or tension

For me this sample looks pretty but has bad stitching. It is just a toile and I’m going to have to make some dodgy ones in order to get the pattern perfect and I’m not defeated yet.

So if you are working away on your own DIY bra pattern, keep at it. Take your notes and keep trying.

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Fabric Shopping in Sydney

fabricshoppinginsydney

This year Sydney has been host to a whole lot of international and interstate sewers and its been wonderful to show them the city.  With more visitors coming soon I thought a round up of Sydney Fabric Stores would be useful for travelers and locals.

I’ve grouped it roughly by region and for ease have assumed that most people would be traveling from the city for approximate travel times. I’ve also edited it (May 2018 to take out stores which have since closed down).

City and Surry Hills

thefabricstore
The Fabric store good for quality fabric, designer ends of rolls and the best selection of Merino in the city.

21 Cooper Street Surry Hills. Open 7 days a week: Monday – Friday: 9.30am – 5pm, Saturday: 10am – 4pm, Sunday: 11am – 4pm

Closest transport:5 minute walk from Central station, approx 20 min walk from the main area of the city.

Top Tip: Sign up to their newsletter so you can find out when sales are on as the sales on Merino are often fantastic.

greenfields trims
Greenfields primarily a wholesale stockist but will sell to the general public. For haberdashery such as elastics, piping’s etc you need to buy the entire roll. Zips must be bought in batches of 5 (same length, style, colour) and fabric can be bought for as little as 1 metre but it will incur a cutting fee. The first floor is all trims, you can go in and look behind the counter and bring the rolls to the counter to purchase. There are virtually no prices on any of the rolls, check the end of the aisles for pricing or check at the counter. The second floor is fabrics, choose your fabric from the black folders in front of the counter. Pricing is on the cards. Almost all fabrics are solid colours as they do not often carry prints.

Good for stocking up on basics like threads, zips, elastics and plain coloured fabrics. Plain poplins, silk cottons, silks and satins. Greenfields is not necessarily the easiest place to shop as it is not set up for general browsing. If you have basics you use continuously and want to save a great deal of money then its great to come and buy in bulk, it’s not good for finding small amounts of trims.

30 Ann st Surry Hills. Open Monday to Thursday 8.30am to 4.45 Friday 8.30am to 4.00pm. Will close for a few weeks over the Christmas/New Year time.

Closest transport:5 minute walk from Central station, approx 20 min walk from the main area of the city.

Top Tip: on the first floor in front of the counters there are bags of trims and accessories for around $5 to $10 you can be lucky and get 50m of underwear elastic or piping for only a few dollars a bag.

buttonsattessuti
Tessuti good for designer fabrics and special occasion fabrics. Stocks Liberty and Nani Iro.

110 Commonwealth st, Surry Hills. Open 6 days a week. Monday – Friday: 9.30am – 5.30pm Saturday: 9.30am – 5.00pm

Closest transport: 5 to 10 minute walk from Central station, approx 15 min walk from the main area of the city.

Top Tip: check the remnant table as there can be some bargains mixed in there.

Photios Bros – Sadly NOW CLOSED DOWN. good for beads, costume jewellery, original vintage trims, feathers and sequins. If you are stocking up on trims for dance, costume or vintage clothing then Photios Bros is a must. Many of their vintage trims are actually pieces they have had in stock since the 50’s or 60’s (or earlier) yet the prices are reasonable.

66 Druitt St Sydney (directly opposite the side of Town Hall). Open 6 days a week. Monday to Friday 9.00am – 5.00pm (closed for 1 hour between 1.00pm – 2.00pm) Saturdays 10.00am – 3.00pm

Closest Transport: Town Hall Station. Located in the city.

Top Tip: the costume jewellery is exquisite. If you need a bit of sparkle to add to an outfit by either a brooch, earrings or even tiara then this will be the best quality you can find at extremely affordable pricing.

Close to the City

Take a ferry from Circular Quay across to Balmain East and pop into Home Industry

home-header

Catering for homewares they specilaise in Upholstery Fabrics which make a perfect addition to your home and are fabulous for bag making too. It’s a beautiful store and well worth a pop into.

South of the City

pitt 4 - Version 2

Pitt Trading good for designer fabrics, high quality day and evening wear, amazing lace fabrics. Widest selection of coloured trims, elastic, laces etc in the city. I feel like Pitt Trading is one of Sydney’s hidden gems when it comes to fabric stores, well worth a look.

274 Rocky Point Road Ramsgate. Open 6 days a week. Monday to Friday 9am to 5.30 pm Saturdays 9am to 5pm.

Closest Transport: Catch a train to Kogarah station, head out of the station and turn right past the fruit store and walk about 300m up the road until you see the public toilets, cross over to the other side of the road to the bus stop in front of the Westpac bank and bakery. Catch the 476 or 477 bus, you will be on the bus for less than 10 minutes before you get off just a few stores down from Pitt Trading. Approx 40 to 50 min from the city.

Top Tip: allow yourself plenty of time to take a good look round as it’s like an Aladdin’s cave packed with pieces so you need a good few laps round the store to have a proper look.

The Remnant Warehouse good for dance and swim fabrics, kids fabrics, some designer offcuts and quilting fabrics

490-494 Botany Road, Alexandria. Open 6 days a week. Monday to Friday 9am to 4.30 pm Saturdays 9am to 4pm.

Closest Transport: Catch a train to Redfern Station and then walk to Regent street and catch the 309 bus. The store is on the right hand side and painted bright pink, you will be on the bus about 5 to 10 min. From the city the whole trip would be around 30 minutes.

Top Tip: check the remnant table as sometimes they have vintage fabrics on there which are quite unusual.

West of the city

cabramatta
Cabramatta not just one store but a whole selection of stores. Great for bridal, evening wear, bargains and general wackiness. It’s hard to do a trip to Cabramatta and not turn up at least one absolute must have bargain piece.

Open 7 days a week with the majority of the stores being open 9am to 5pm.

Closest Transport: catch a train to Cabramatta station. As you come out of the station head to John st. On both sides of John st you will find a selection of fabric stores.Approximately halfway down John street is a large open plaza area, if you go down this street there are a few more fabric stores just past the intersection. Time from the city approx 50 minutes.

Top Tip: It’s often a good idea to go through and check your prices at all stores and then come back and buy as some stores have the same stock at different prices. Cabramatta also has some amazing food, be sure to make some time for lunch while you are shopping and enjoy the delicious food on offer.

All over Sydney

All over Sydney in various suburbs you will find Spotlight stores. They are great for kids fabrics, craft supplies and dress fabrics. If you are looking for a one stop shop type store than seek out a Spotlight. They are all over Australia so if you are traveling to multiple places there is a pretty good chance you will come across a Spotlight somewhere in your travels.

sydney_spoolette

Hopefully this helps you out if you are traveling to Sydney, I hope to add more to it at a later date but these would be my top picks. If you’d like a shopping guide or some friendly sewing faces to have a meet up with feel free to get in contact with the Sydney Spoolettes. We are always willing to take visiting sewers on shopping exhibitions or even just meet up for a meal and a chat.

Sydneysiders if I’ve missed out any favourite spots, add them in the comments and I can update the post as needed. Thanks!

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Bra Making – how to DIY your pattern part 3

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By now you have taken your bra apart and spent your time making an accurate pattern. So now it’s all about collecting everything you need to start sewing your bra.

Based on the bra I took apart here is what I need

bra-components

  1. Foam – I chose one that is about 4mm thick, the same as the bra I took apart
  2. Decorative lace trim
  3. Exterior fabric
  4. Underwire casing
  5. Underwires
  6. Contrast fabric – this could also be the same as the exterior fabric
  7. Bra strap elastic
  8. Rings – I find metal ones last longer and if you are putting your bras into the washing machine/dryer then I’ve found metal ones last much longer
  9. Bra sliders – again I prefer metal but then can also be plastic
  10. Powermesh –  on this bra it’s powermesh but I have other bras that have a soft mesh, polyester spandex. If you can’t get exactly like the bra you took apart then be aware of the amount of stretch (or lack thereof) that you are adding to your bra.
  11. Decorative bow
  12. Decorative ribbon
  13. At the bridge on this bra there is an exterior fabric and then the inner fabric is a non stretch fabric
  14. Hook and Eyes
  15. Mesh cover on internal cup seams. This one has a line of mesh but other styles I have use an incredibly soft satin ribbon. I’m thinking of going with the ribbon just because I already have some and it’s one less item to buy.
  16. Lingerie elastic

In addition you will need thread, machine needles, a machine that can do straight stitch and zig zag and a large cup of tea or coffee to help you out during the assembly.

Now I know this looks like a huge amount of stuff but if your original bra is in pretty good condition there is a whole bunch of stuff you can recycle from the original bra. The underwires, even the underwire casing if you were careful during the unpicking stage. Hook and eyes can be reused (and dyed if necessary), sliders and rings can be re used multiple times (another good reason to go metal and not plastic). Even the decorative bow can be re used.

This covers what I need to recreate my bra, be sure to check your own bra and see what is needed to recreate it. There is a great list on Bra makers Supply that is super helpful and I find the information that Norma from Orange Lingerie to not only be amazing but also inspiring.

The next step is going to be the assembly of my bra and I hope to get to that as soon as I can. Apologies for the big gap in time from Part 2 to Part 3 but life stuff happened and I just didn’t have time to get to this post, sorry if it interfered with anyone’s plans.

Am excited to be up to the assembly stage, it’s going to be fun recreating one of my favourite bras.

 

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A day with Simplicty by Brother and Spotlight

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I’m endlessly fascinated with how stuff gets made, clothes, food, cars, electronics. Those educational type programs on factories are brilliant. I just like seeing the process of how things come into being. So a few weeks ago when I was asked to attend the launch of some new sewing machines I thought it would be a great insight into learning about how the machines came about.

The event was to launch the new collaboration between Brother and Simplicity. Three new machines are going to be co branded and exclusive to Spotlight. Christy has done a fabulous wrap up of the actual machines at Little Betty Sews. They will be called Simplicity by Brother and each machine is aimed at beginner, intermediate or advanced sewers, come with a Simplicity pattern that matches the skill set of each machine.

simplicity by brother sl500

Essentially it’s a good, better, best type program which I’ve dealt with all the time in clothing. It’s all about hitting the correct price points and features to match the price points. Every retailer from supermarkets to hardware has a version of it. Homebrand, known brand, designer brand is what it equates to. In this case it means that the “good” machine is to entice newcomers to sewing. That can only be a good thing, I like that more and more people are learning to sew. What impressed me is that it wasn’t all about the beginner. They have thought about the natural progression of sewing and that there are more than just beginners out that. That showed some smarts as too often things only get aimed at beginners.

button hole demonstration

Overall the entire project has taken over 3 years to come to market. That seems like such a long time to be working on the one project! I was sitting in the audience mentally calculating how many ranges I would’ve designed or worked on during those 3 years. Even for companies where I only design 2 ranges a year that was still 6 seasons ago, that seems forever in my experience. It was insights like that which can make a launch day like this one so interesting. It’s all about learning new things.

launch team

The team from Spotlight were there and they were super knowledgeable not only about their products, but also about different bloggers and what plans they had for the stores. They certainly have some exciting fabrics on the way and I’m so glad. I grew up in a country town where for years Spotlight was the only fabric choice. Sometimes it felt limiting but with a bit of digging around you could turn up some gems.

These days I like plenty of their lines, a notable highlight being the Japanese Lawn which I’ve used here, here, here, here, here, here and a bunch of not yet blogged makes. I genuinely like the fabric and find it a great wash and wear basic that suits my lifestyle. In fact I was wearing this dress on the day, it’s my current favourite dress for when I need to look semi dressed up but not too dressed up and for when I don’t want something that will distract me. It was a little weird to have people patting my fabric and talking about how well it sold and citing facts and figures on it. My dress also received one of the oddest compliments. I was told “but it looks as good as store bought and no one would know you made it”. Such a weird compliment to say at a launch of sewing machines? What exactly did they think a sewn dress would look like?

Simplicity by Brother me

If you took a selfie with a sewing machine you went into a competition to win one, this one has 5 kinds of buttonholes so I grabbed a photo on the off chance I may win.

I had a great time hanging out with Christy who was a bit nervous to begin with and was quite the celebrity as so many people recognised her from her excellent blog. The team from Spotlight are certainly reading blogs and seeing what people have to say about their stores/fabric lines and taking it on board. They rattled off a bunch of facts and figures around their customers and honestly I had no idea they were such a powerhouse. There wouldn’t be many bigger brands in retail in Australia that have a following that large.

Overall I found it a really interesting day. I hesitated to write this as a post because I didn’t want it to seem like an advertisement but I also wanted to offer insight into what is happening in the sewing industry and how that translates to my own experiences. It was an interesting day and I hope the whole promotion works to bring more people to the joy that is sewing.

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Shibori Workshop Wrap Up

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Shibori has long fascinated me and now I think I’m even more enthralled after a thoroughly wonderful day learning about it.

Who knew from a vat of gunky black looking sludge that frankly smelt a little gross.

Shibori_workshop - 27

This could happen.

Shibori_workshop - 26

and this

Shibori_workshop - 20and so many more shades and patterns of wonderful inky hues.

Pepa and Karen from Shibori were great in breaking down the system. How to pleat and bind and most importantly how to embrace the unpredictability, that the most beautiful results often came when least expected.

It was so fun and just what I was hoping for. I wanted a day where I could learn the techniques, experiment, end  up with some useable fabric pieces and then go away with a head exploding with ideas of what to do next. It truly was inspiring.

Being able to share all that with the Sydney Spoolettes was a blast. As a group we are brought together by our love of sewing but even in the few short months we have been a group real friendships have formed and the camaraderie is empowering as we all make our way in the world.

For anyone considering doing the workshop I saw GO FOR IT! you will not regret it. My top tips would be

– take extra fabric of varying lengths, widths and textures

– pre wash all your fabric

– pre iron all of your fabric

– have an idea of what you want to achieve, the enthusiasm is infectious and a little overwhelming. Being able to keep yourself on track will mean you get out what you want from it

– embrace the unpredictable and go outside your own boundries

For more images you can pop over to my flickr page (I’ve been trying all afternoon to get my flickr to work, it won’t, so I added the photos here as a gallery instead), Maria from Veloswer has some stunning images on her flickr and I am sure there will be more images coming up soon.

I have quite a bit of fabric that I dyed during class, am sifting through it all and planning what to make so expect more Shibori goodness soon.
Lastly thank you to the Spoolettes who attended it was wonderful to see you all, huge welcome to the newcomers too. Thanks to Mel for organising lunch at the pub and huge huge thank you to Pepa and Karen for sharing your knowledge with us.

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Shibori

shibori_header

This weekend the Spoolettes and I are attending a Shibori workshop and I am so excited, like really excited.

Since I found the workshop I’ve been madly pinning inspiration and ideas to my Shibori Pinterest board (um sorry if you got mega spammed during one of my mammoth pin sessions). So I’ve pulled some of my favourites here to showcase them and get me ready to learn all about it during the workshop.

shibori-clothing-inspiration

via Prism of Threads via Tory Birch via Anthropologie  via Amy Nguyen