stash busting – Page 2 – Measure Twice Cut Once

Posted on 03/08/201518/01/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 2 Comments

Everyone Deserves Pretty Knickers week – round up

So Everyone Deserves Pretty Knickers week has been and gone and I didn’t get to even a fraction of the things I had planned. Life stuff got in the way and ever since I’ve been so busy I haven’t had a chance to get back to the blog.

Thanks so much to everyone who joined in, I sincerely hope you’ve added a few more pretty knickers to your lingerie drawer.

Despite all the life dramas of the week I did manage to squeeze in a tiny amount of sewing time and got 3 new pairs finished. These were all part of my stash busting efforts so I was using fabrics and trims I had on hand.

Next year I’ll be looking forward to lots of fun stuff when we have our next Everyone Deserves Pretty Knickers Week!

Posted on 09/02/2015 by Susan Goodwin — 16 Comments

Sewing Adventures: Patchwork Malvarosa

Sometimes you have an idea and you know it’s either going to be brilliant or an epic fail. This is one of those times.

I picked up this fabric at a Garage sale, along with a bunch of other, I really liked this piece but it just wasn’t big enough to make a dress. So taking this Gorman skirt as inspiration, I thought I’d try an experiment?

I used the Pauline Alice Malvarosa dress. Cutting the floral on the top and the band for the skirt. Using the scraps of the floral, some blue and black from the stash to create the other panels.

The panels were calculated out by dividing the rectangle that creates the skirt up and cutting the number of triangles needed. I didn’t quite have enough of the floral so there is an uneven pattern happening but I don’t think it matters that much.
Attaching it all together using my overlocker, I used bias binding for the neck and armholes.

So after all that maths and cutting and drawing the dress is well, ugly. It’s really a bit weird and not in the good quirky sense. Oh well you live and learn and it’s only fabric.

Pattern: Pauline Alice Malvarosa, made before.

Alterations: Eliminated pockets, eliminated facings, added centre back seam, turned skirt into patchwork panels.

Fabric: Garage sale purchase and from the stash.

Posted on 01/09/201401/09/2014 by Susan Goodwin — 23 Comments

Sewing Adventures: a tale of 2 dresses

Over the past few weeks I have set myself the task of getting my “to do” pile of sewing down to a more manageable size. My usual way of preparing a garment to be sewn is to cut it out, include all the fabrics, trims, interfacing, pattern etc into a jumbo zip lock bag, seal it up and add it to the in progress box. This works great, it keeps things tidy, the cat is less likely to want to sleep on top of it and if I can’t get to it straight away then I can’t lose any of the pieces.

In working my way through the stack I came across 2 very pretty dresses. This Cynthia Rowley one from Simplicity in navy and the Gathered Sundress from Pattern Runway in white. Both cut out in Japanese Lawn. Setting aside some time I made them up, as it got closer to the time to add in the zips something became very clear.

I’ve put on weight.

These are not going to fit. Now normally this would relegate them back into the “to do” pile, but I need the space. So I finished the dresses. The navy Cynthia Rowley style only needs a zip in the side seam and it’s done. The white Pattern Runway dress needs a centre back zip and the hem to be done. So all in, these dresses need less than half an hours work to be wearable.

I however need more than half an hour. I’ve not been exercising as much and some incredibly high stress levels means I’ve been stress eating. In addition to weight gain this has also meant an increase in migraines and some other issues, most of which I know are more easily taken care of when I am being active.

So my plan is to pop them in the cupboard, work away with my fitness and my diet and in a couple of weeks try again. Then if they don’t fit, I try my fitness again, basically repeat until they fit.

Now I want to be very clear, this is not about size, this is about fitness. When I am fitter my body has a different shape, it gets stronger, it supports me, physically and mentally I feel better. After a winter of plenty of working from home (comfy track pants and loose tshirts may feel awesome, but they also hide when the weight starts to change), too much comfort food and not enough exercise has turned my muscle to pudge. Pudge sits on my body in a weird way and this is why things aren’t fitting the way they should.

Once again sewing has taught me to enjoy and use all the skills I have in all areas of my life. Because when one gets put off balance there are follow on effects. In this case it means dresses that don’t fit now, but it’s OK. They will fit later and in the meantime act as good incentive to get moving.

So has anyone else ever had the problem of not fitting into their projects? or anyone want to come and get fit with me?

Posted on 25/08/201425/08/2014 by Susan Goodwin — 4 Comments

Sewing Adventures: stash busting (even the crazy stuff)

Stash busting sewing was in full force this weekend using up some cute polka dots and checks into a few pairs of knickers.

The Lizzie Knickers with in check with elastic and lace from the stash. I can never get these to sit straight for a photo but they are very cute to wear.

The Georgiana Knickers using up the Kermit the frog green crazy coloured elastic. Because when you are serious about stash busting it all has to be used at some point?

Closing in on yet another full year of stash busting and it doesn’t feel yet like I’m making a big difference? Am hoping the last few months of the year result in some big amounts being used or that when I re shuffle everything it will take up less fabric tubs than it currently does? Here’s hoping?

Edit Note: the original version of this post had the black knickers incorrectly listed as The Charlotte Knickers. They are in fact The Georgiana Knickers, a more bikini brief style than the fuller more coverage version that is The Charlotte. Apologies for any inconvenience this may have caused. I can only attribute the mistake to me being very tired and not thinking clearly.

Posted on 13/08/201418/01/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 6 Comments

Sewing Adventures: Baseball Singlet as pyjamas

I really like pretty pyjamas, and yet I don’t own any? This hasn’t really bothered me until lately and I realised how bad my pj’s had gotten. I kept saying oh I’ll buy some and then never finding ones I liked or walking away from the store thinking I can make that. So I rummaged in the stash and found this cute knit I had picked up from The Remnant Warehouse.

In my quest for prettier nightwear I’m using the Baseball Singlet from the Basics Collection.

Made up as per the instructions. I experimented with a different kind of decorative stretch stitch my machine has. No reason other than I was curious to see how it would work and I thought it was fun.

For the hem, armholes and neckline I didn’t overlock/serge the edges like I normally would as the fabric is quite fine. Instead I made sure the decorative stitch was catching the turned under amount and finishing it all for me in one go.

It worked really well, especially on the curved hem. It’s a great way to finish fine knits, all you need to do is experiment with the stitch types and lengths. Oh and press the hem well before stitching so you can get the stitching in a nice straight line.

I love being able to make these simple things that honestly I used to buy and always felt bad because they were so cheap and after a few washes just look horrible. Now I can use up prints in the stash or keep an eye out for cute knits and have a bit of fun experimenting with them.

It would be a nice introduction to anyone wanting to sew knit fabrics as there are few seams and a variety of finishes to choose from. For more experienced sewers it’s a great quick make with loads of satisfaction in being able to whip something up and then move onto the next project.

I hope everyone else enjoys making them as much as I do.

Am already thinking a pair of The Mary Knickers in the same fabric would make an awesome matchy matchy set and perhaps the perfect summer pyjamas?

Posted on 05/06/201418/01/2016 by Susan Goodwin — Leave a comment

Everyone Deserves Pretty Knickers – The Jane Knickers Sewalong Part 1

What a week! Seriously it’s been a whirlwind of excitement. With seeing peoples makes and being featured designer on Kollabora. It’s all just been fantastic and one of those times where I’m supremely happy to have made the leap to share my love of sewing with everyone. Thank you to every single person who has supported Measure Twice Cut Once in any way, I truly appreciate it.

Today kicks off with The Jane Knicker sewalong. If you haven’t got your pattern yet, you can pick it up with a 20% discount until the 10th of June over on Kollabora.

Fabric choices are fairly varied for the knickers which is great as it means you can go as fancy as you want and it’s brilliant for stash busting too. Look for lightweight cottons like voile, cambric or lawn. Quilting cottons and dress cottons are very nice too. Lightweight silks and satins are also lovely and have the added slinky feel to them.

Avoid anything that doesn’t have a good bias stretch to it, is too bulky (like denim or canvas) and if in doubt make a test version before using up your best fabric.

As an indicator of fabric quantity I’m cutting out the size 18 pattern and this is 112cm wide fabric. For sizing, try going by your hip measurement not your waist measurement. The fabric I’m using is close in handling to a voile and has a printed floral on it. Again it’s a stashbusting piece but I know it came from Spotlight a few years back and I stole it from my sisters stash (um, Hi!).

As with all of our woven knicker patterns The Jane Knicker is cut on the bias. With right sides together fold your fabric in half and ensure that the grainline run parallel to the selvedge.

I then folded back just one layer until the selvedge is at 90 degrees to where it was to create a bias fold line. On this I placed the yoke and cut a single layer.

All pattern pieces are now cut.

Taking one lower front panel and one back panel. Match inside leg seam with right sides together and pin. Repeat for remaining leg panels.

Using a straight stitch sew a 1cm seam along pinned edge. In a never before seen occurrence I am sewing with non matching thread to make it easier for you to see and apologies to Nan (my Grandmother) as I can hear you mentally tsk tsking me for non matching thread. It’s just for the photos I promise Nan!

Clean finish raw edge by overlocking/serging or zig zagging.

Repeat the last 2 steps for the other leg panels.

With right sides together match the joined panels. At the inside leg seam push the seam allowance to the back. Pin in place.

Using a straight stitch sew a 1cm seam allowance.

Finish raw edge by overlocking/serging or zig zagging.

Tune in tomorrow for the remaining steps and don’t forget to tag your in progress photos with #everyonedeservesprettyknickers

Posted on 25/05/201419/06/2019 by Susan Goodwin — 11 Comments

Fabric a Brac – Sydney

What a great day! I’m exhausted but it was so much fun.

Fabric a brac brings sewers wanting to reduce their stash and sewers who want some fabric together.

This was my first time either attending or being a stall holder and I was glad that I had set myself strict rules on not buying fabric as there was so much that was so tempting!

It was fantastic to see so many friendly faces with Catherine, Melanie and Amy all dropping by to say hello as well as meeting plenty of new people too.

I came home with less than I went with, so I was extremely happy about that.

This little guy might have been my favourite customer of the day.

Posted on 30/04/201418/01/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 4 Comments

What you need to make some Knickers

I am so happy with the response to our “Everyone deserves Pretty Knickers” challenge. It’s so exciting to think that everyone will soon have pretty knickers that they made themselves.

To help you get ready for the big week, here is a run down of all the Measure Twice Cut Once patterns and what you need for each one. This way you can raid your stash for your supplies or head on out to buy what you need, am sure you can all stand the drudgery of more fabric shopping, lol.

The Charlotte Knickers

The Georgiana Knickers

Fabric: Cotton wovens such as voile, cambric, lawn, quilting cottons. Also silks and satins.
Gusset: Cotton Jersey
Unsuitable for fabrics with bulk or stiffness such as denim or cord.
Trim: Thread, 6mm width elastic (does not need to be lingerie elastic). This is photographed with a rolled hem, it can be made like that or it can be turned under and top stitched like The Charlotte Knickers. So even without an overlocker/serger you can create this style.

The Jane Knickers

Fabric: Cotton wovens such as voile, cambric, lawn, quilting cottons. Also silks and satins.
Unsuitable for fabrics with bulk or stiffness such as denim or cord.
Trim: Thread, 6mm width elastic (does not need to be lingerie elastic). The top edge does not need to be lingerie elastic, but it looks really cute if you can use it. This is a great one to practice or learn using how to stretch the lingerie elastic while top stitching and still keep the decorative edge peaking up above the top of the fold.

The Mary Knickers

Fabric: Knits such as jerseys, cotton lycra/spandex, super lightweight double knits. Highly recommended to have a high cotton content and lycra/spandex content is nice but not essential.
Gusset: Cotton Jersey
Unsuitable for fabrics woven fabrics.
Trims: 6mm width elastic (does not need to be lingerie elastic), thread

The Lizzie Knickers

Fabric: Cotton wovens such as voile, cambric, lawn, quilting cottons, silks and satins.
Gusset: Cotton Jersey
Unsuitable for fabrics with high degree of stretch, bulk or stiffness such as swim lycra, denim or cord.
Trims: Thread, 6mm width elastic (does not need to be lingerie elastic). Due to the elastic side “strings” on this style a nice soft elastic or a proper lingerie elastic certainly makes it a lot more comfortable. See if you can source some if this is your preferred style?

The Lydia Knickers

Tomorrow we will be covering suppliers of elastic and we have plenty more posts coming up on how you can create knickers to suit your style. Start gathering up your supplies and don’t forget to pop your name down on the announcement post, and grab a sidebar button so we can keep an eye out for your beautiful makes.

Posted on 28/04/201419/01/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 1 Comment

Sewing Adventures – The Jane Knickers

I decided to add something a little cuter to my sleepwear so whipped up these three versions of The Jane Knickers.

The green checked looked ok but was a little flat so I added a decorative topstitch to the yoke in a magenta thread to match the magenta lingerie elastic I was using for the waistband. You’ll see on all three versions I have created pleats in the front panels where it joins to the yoke. On the pattern it says to gather these pieces but I wanted to show that you can vary them up by pleating as well.

The pale check is super sweet vintage fabric that I actually made a top in (that is waiting to be blogged). I used the remainder to cut out The Jane Knickers. I find it a little pale so I like to add a touch of colour on the waist elastic. This elastic is a folded elastic that has a decorative bobble edge. It’s one of those trims that I keep hanging on to and yet never get around to actually using. So I bit the bullet and used it here. The folded elastic works fine instead of the lingerie elastic. Just be careful to check the stretch. You’ll notice these ones look a little bigger than the others? they are the same size I just had to ensure not to stretch it too tight as I was topstitching it in as it doesn’t have the same stretch properties as the other elastic I was using.

I dropped by Spotlight on the Easter long weekend with the idea of buying a zip, I came home without the zip (didn’t have the colour and size I needed) but with more fabric! This one is a Japanese Lawn which I adore and it was on special. They are so soft and yet not see through and make up beautifully. I cut a dress out of this fabric and then used up the leftovers for these knickers. On the front yoke I have added in a centre front seam and topstitched down the seam allowance. I couldn’t quite fit the yoke in the scraps so I managed to maneuver it in by adding a seam. Then added the bright green elastic because it is such a fun colour.

The mix and match of elastics helps tie the colours and fabrics together and you’d never know they were made out of leftovers!

Posted on 28/03/201419/01/2016 by Susan Goodwin — 8 Comments

Behind the Collection

Good design should empower the wearer. It should make them feel like they are the most amazing person and even if no one sees it, the wearer knows it to be true.

For me, my best design work comes from a need or a want being fulfilled and finding inspiration in the things around me.

So how did I end up designing a range of knickers?

I’ve had a rough start to the year. I’ve been unwell and instead of being out enjoying the amazing summer, I’ve been stuck indoors trying to get better. In doing so I did a few things

pledged to make a huge go of destashing my enormous amount of fabric
cleaned out my closet including the underwear drawer.
read Pride and Prejudice for the millionth or more time
got totally hooked on The Lizzie Bennett diaries – a You Tube series of the modern day version of Pride and Prejudice, highly addictive and awesome

In no particular order these things made me realise that there is a little bit of the Pride and Prejudice characters in all of us, that the story is still relevant in modern times and that miles of pretty fabrics and trims could be turned into really lovely practical, cute and sexy knickers.

Teaming up with my sister a professional patternmaker we got to work. I did the designs, she made the patterns, I made the samples, she did the alterations, I wrote the instructions. It was very much a back and forth with each of us using our strengths.

Now I like pretty knickers, but I know that for lots of people they just want something simple, no fuss, easy and that’s what I want some of the time too.

So how to design a product for the no fuss practical ladies and the ones who might want a bit more?

Easy, we have included you in the design process.

In each pattern pack you will get
1 – the pattern in sizes 6 to 18 (Australian sizes)
2- the instruction booklet. For many of them you can have your choice of woven fabric and sew it up as per the instructions and you will have a totally serviceable pair of knickers.
3 -The Designer Manual. Here we teach you the tricks of the trade, where you take a simple silhouette and you build on it with trims, colours, fabrics. You even get a page of silhouettes for you to come up with your own ideas.

Each style has been named after one of the amazing ladies of Pride and Prejudice. If you find yourself more like the wild and free Lydia then there is a style for you. More like the conservative and practical Charlotte then there is one for you too. You can see my Pride and Prejudice Pinterest board here and each style has it’s own Pinterest board as well so we can add all the variations of the style to help inspire you more.

Hopefully everyone finds a little bit of themselves in these styles and rewards themselves with some pretty knickers and a chance to try out being their own designer.

Take the inspiration from you around, from what you love, what makes you smile and design something that will make you feel like the amazing person you are.