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Sewing Adventures – Ohhh Lulu Romy Bra

Another week, another bra! or more accurately my need for more comfortable pieces now I’m staying in all the time. The Ohhh Lulu Romy has been on my to make list for forever and the other day I had the machines all set up to sew lingerie so I grabbed some extra pieces and cut this one out. It’s really small pieces so I even managed to cut it out of some scraps left over from other projects which is fantastic as it’s yet another pattern that can be used to reduce waste.

It went together really well. I’ve lined the front cups with the same soft pink mesh that the upper panel is out of. This meant all the internal seams could be clean finish which not only looks nice is also super comfortable.

After attaching the lower picot elastic I thought I should check the sizing and while the cups were ok, the band was way too big. Mostly because the fabrics I’m using are super stretchy, especially the floral it’s got lots of give to it. So I cut the panels back thinking I’d swap it to a pull on style as this is essentially a tester to see if I like the style and if it’s comfortable. Cut off what I thought was excess and finished it all off. Now it looks small and it’s a slight wriggle to get on. Have I made it too small now?

I’m going to wear it for awhile and see what I think. In the meantime it’s looking super cute and I’m hoping I have enough leftovers to make matching knickers!

Pattern: Ohhh Lulu Romy pattern

Fabric: floral – poly jersey knit I got from Cabramatta, Pink mesh and elastics from Pitt Trading

Alterations: made it pull on by cutting off some of the back – wear to see if that works

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Sewing Adventures – Harriet Bra – Mint and Pink Edition

This whole bra could be used a lesson in something you really wanted to be excellent but some silly mistakes and sewing while tired means that it just falls short of your expectations.

It’s the Harriet Bra from Cloth Habit with the adjustments mentioned here and here. Essentially this is meant to be the same as the blue printed mesh version I made but here are just some of the mistakes I made

  • I forgot to sew the bride SA smaller to give me a wider bridge
  • in my haste I sewed lining into the app cups which gave me a lovely quad boob look till I figured out what I had done wrong and cut it out. Fixing the quad boob look but leaving me a slightly irritating upper cup seam
  • forgetting to change the colour thread back correctly and sewing one at night and one during the day which means the underarm is sewn on in 2 different thread colours
  • instead of placing the bra flat before cutting off the casing at the underarm I cut it while holding it, resulting in cutting it straight and not on the angle to line with with the elastic. Had to rescue it/sew it closed with some stitching below the elastic

Honestly I know it’s all small stuff but it looks so pretty and then I see the issues and just shake my head at myself. Don’t sew while tired/stressed/annoyed at yourself.

Apart from the issues it looks amazing and I really like the fit. With a limited amount of lace I feel like I managed to cut it so it looks like it was planned that way and not just a result of “making it work” I’ll definitely be using similar methods in the future.

Pattern: Cloth Habit Harriet Bra – with fitting modifications

Fabric: Mint Powermesh, hot pink lace, strapping all from stash but originally from Pitt Trading.

Alterations: Slow down, take more care!

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Sewing Adventures – Silk Scarf with fabric from Pitt Trading

You know how sometimes you’ll be watching a cooking show and the “recipe” ends up being open packet of biscuits and place it next to open container of dip. You roll your eyes and mutter about how that’s not a recipe, that’s just assembly.

That’s a little how I feel about this project, it’s less sewing and more just assembly. The silk is from Pitt Trading, it’s ridiculously lightweight. A whole metre can basically be folded into the space a handkerchief would fit in to.

Initially I had thought of making a blouse but honestly it’s so lightweight and lovely as it is I didn’t want to mess with it too much. Cue putting it away for a bit of time until I decided what to do with it? I found it again as I was hunting for something else special I had tucked away and knew immediately what I wanted to do.

Swapping my overlocker into roll hem mode I went around the entire outside edge, smoothing off the corners to be slightly rounded. If I include the resetting of the dials on my overlocker the whole thing took less than 10 minutes. Sewing win! and I have a pretty new scarf all ready for the cooler weather (if it turns up).

Pattern: – um there wasn’t one?

Fabric: From Pitt Trading

Changes: watch the beginning/end point of the roll hem to get a smoother transition

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Sewing Adventures – Navy Floral dress

Sometimes you just need a fast trouble free sew and this is mine, standard bodice block, cut the skirt the width of the fabric to either pleat or gather. Invisible zip, bias bind neck and armholes then done. Easy made it a fair few times before.

Then you try the dress on immediately break the invisible zip, need to unpick, re insert, don’t like how it lines up, throw it in the naughty corner while you go overseas on holiday, come back re insert again and by now are so over it you don’t mind it’s not 100% lined up so you just finish it and be done. So yeah totally a fast sew..

Pattern: My bodice block and skirt is the width of the fabric front and back

Fabric: cotton lawn picked up in Cabramatta for about $8 a metre possibly less

Alterations: bodice may need adjusting now I have refitted my bras? also wrinkle on back? bad posture or needs a bigger sway back adjustment?

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Sewing Adventures – Modified Euler Bra – Pink

It really has been all about the bras lately. I’ve had this Sophie Hines Euler bra cut out for some time and only now just had the time to get it out and finish it. This is a modified Euler using the modified pack you can buy as an extra to the Euler Pattern.

Lower cups are lined in bamboo jersey with the upper fabrics being pink stretch mesh and printed stretch mesh. I basically used whatever trims I had in the stash that matched though I’m quite pleased at being able to use that little ruffle elastic for the neckline.

To wear it’s very comfortable, shape is a little flattening though honestly I should do an FBA on this but I was being lazy / testing the fit straight out of the packet. My goal was a soft comfortable bra to wear during hot weather and in that respect I’ve succeeded as it is comfy and good for hot weather.

This textured strapping was used on my test Harriet Bra and it’s super cute but the drawback is it is quite stiff. Good for feeling firm and keeping things in place but a right pain when trying to thread it through O rings and Sliders. I almost gave up it was so difficult. I got there in the end and hope it softens up some more with washing and wear.

Keeping the straps long I turned them into a cross over back which seems to suit the high neckline. It’s good on really hot days but the single line of elastic along the base can be slightly irritating. Next time I want to try adding a different back to see if it helps alleviate the slight cutting in feeling I get along my sides.

Pattern: Sophie Hines Euler Bra with mod pack

Fabric: bamboo jersey, stretch mesh, printed stretch mesh and elastic/strapping all from Pitt Trading

Alterations: next time alter back to not be a single line of elastic and change straps to not be a cross over

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Sewing Adventures – Cloth Habit Harriet Bra – Blue

Every so often I fall in love with a piece of fabric, colour and print and big motivating factors and well this fabric it was one of those swoon at first sight type moments. It came in during a shipment of designer fabrics when I was working at Pitt Trading and I was lucky enough to grab some before it was all sold out. Quite simply its gorgeous, based on some traditional Japanese style influences mixed together it’s exactly the kind of “lets put everything together and blend it” style print I’m drawn to.

Then when making this bra I decided to take the multi hued elements of the print and step further and use non matching trims to make the bra. Bt rights, this many colours, types and print mixed together should be a dogs breakfast. But it’s not it all came together in one of my most favourite makes ever.

The pattern is another Cloth Habit Harriet Bra with a few extra modifications. On my original I added some extra to the lower cup so I sat down into the cup more and adjusted the seam allowance at the bridge to allow it to be fractionally wider so the wires didn’t sit on top of each other.

These changes I was happy with but I want a little bt more projection and lift. When I wear the pink one I totally want to pinch out a section at the top to bring everything up. So I did, well sort of. Using this explanation from Emerald Erin I adjusted the upper panel and now I’ve got more lift and projection!

With these changes I think I’ve got the fit almost perfect for me, they are super comfortable to wear and I like the shape they give me, it’s not the high rounded shape of a full moulded foam cup but honestly am over that look anyway.

Pattern: Cloth Habit Harriet Bra with modifications for fit

Fabric: printed mesh and trims from Pitt Trading Inner lining and back closure from Underwired.co

Alterations: I think I’m pretty close with what I’ve done already.

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Sewing Adventures – Orange Lingerie Lexington Bra

Well it’s been a big time for bra making around here lately. I’ve been pressed for sewing time so smaller projects that I can fit in a little bit at a time have been working well for me. Plus I needed new bras so win win really.

The Lexington is a non wired bra that uses bra strapping to give shaping and definition with its cute cross over style. I had purchased it pretty soon after it came out with the hope that I could get it made up in time to wear on the plane for our trip. Sadly I ran out of time for that to happen so I was pretty glad when I had some spare time a few weekends ago to cut one out.

Using a printed stretch mesh as the outer, a crystal lycra as lining and cream power mesh for the back (all from Pitt Trading). Initially when I cut the pieces they looked so big that I was a little worried. That feeling of them being too big lasted all the way till the first time I wore it and once it was on, it was so comfortable that I forgot about that entirely. It is very full coverage and I might slice the top down fractionally but it doesn’t look bad just kind of lots of fabric.

Constructionally it went together well and the instructions are nice and clear. I also followed the online sew along on the blog that explains how to get the central cut out. The way the cut out is done is a bit clumsy, sewing a section in and then cutting it out just felt weird. You can see the remaining fabric around the central cut out. It looks kind of cute from the outside but the size of the cut out is way bigger than I was expecting. I like it but I think I want to try a version without it as I hope I like that even more.

Wearing it feels really good, decent shape, very comfortable no bits that dig in or pinch in any way. It’s not the full shape of a wired bra but vastly better than most non wired bras are.

Pattern: Lexington Bra from Orange Lingerie

Fabric: Printed stretch mesh, crystal lycra, cream power mesh, pink strapping all from the stash originally from Pitt Trading. Apricot hook and eye from Booby Traps

Alterations: this version follows the cut out shown on the Orange Lingerie blog. Next time I want to try it without the cut out but with the non hook and eye back (also shown on their blog)

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Teaching at Camp Stitch!

Camp stitch was a blast! A very hectic full on blast but still so much fun!

Camp Stitch was dreamed up by a lovely group of Sydney sewers who put in all the hours to plan, book and make a sewing retreat happen.
Due to a jam picked schedule I couldn’t stay for the whole weekend, so my plan was to catch the train down from Sydney then uber or cab from train to the venue. Getting up super early I headed to the station and enjoyed a leisurely train journey of a few hours to get to the station. A completely unattended station in the middle of the Bush. It was utterly beautiful and not a person to be seen.

I tried an Uber which I had been checking at the same time for the last few weeks and each time it had listed one as available. None available. Ok use the booking function to book one. What the booking function doesn’t tell you is that it take more than half an hour to tell you if the booking is accepted or not.
In the meantime I’ve sent a message to Courtney saying I’m at the station and trying to get to them.
She gives me the number of the local cab company I call them and they have no cabs within an hours drive of where I am. Booking function time on uber runs out with no one taking the booking.
Buzz Courtney back and she says stay there am sending someone to pick you up.
Natasha comes 15 minutes later to pick me up and tell me all that’s been happening at the camp since it opened the night before.
Getting to the venue I have enough time to duck to the bathroom before I went to class. I had by far the biggest class and it was lovely to see them all set up and waiting for me.
We leapt straight in to making jeans by setting aside the instructions and following a production style order of assembly I had put together. It makes the process of making much faster meaning we could attempt the task of a pair of jeans in a day.
With plenty of new to me sewers it was great to talk to people as the class progressed. Thankfully for me everyone already had a good command of their machines and terminology so it was easier to demo and talk people through a step and then let them go and do it.
By lunch time we had baste fitted everyone with the majority of people needing a little bit of alteration but not too much major issues.
Everyone was finding rigid high waisted denim very constrictive after years of wearing lower waists or ones with plenty of spandex in them but despite the initial “Ohh that’s tight” type feeling everyone was super happy.
We worked hard and I wasn’t surprised to see some very exhausted looking faces at the end of the day and we almost made it? Most people just had the waistbands to go. So not quite totally finished but I was still super happy with how far we had all got.
After we were packed up I had a tiny bit of time to say hi to some of the other teachers and then it was back to the station to a very packed train home again. Thankfully my machine was easy to carry in my Prym carry bag.
Tiring but lots of fun and a great feeling of pride and accomplishment at what the amazing sewers achieved in a day. Seeing all the finished pieces on Instagram has been awesome fun too!
Thanks for having me Camp Stitch!
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Sewing Adventures – Deer and Doe Myosotis in Liberty Print

At this stage I’m sure no one is surprised I’ve made another myosotis, this is my 4th one and quite possibly not my last.

I wanted something I could wear to work hence my choice of a darker style of fabric.

This one I picked up at The Fabric Store and while it was marked as lawn it feels a good deal heavier than any of the other lawns I’ve got. Especially much heavier than any of the Liberty lawns that I own. Initially I had thought it was because it was a darker colour but nope it really doesn’t feel or react like the other Liberty lawns. Weird.

These photos were taken on the way home from a full day at work so you can see at least it doesn’t wrinkle up too much despite a days worth of wear.

It did however sew up nicely and well quickly as I smashed this one out just before we went to England for Christmas. I even omitted the pockets in order to get it sewn faster. Because I’ve made it a few times, I know I can just pull it on over my head so I don’t bother with the buttonholes and just sew the buttons directly through both plackets closing them up. These are some fun slightly vintage style ones that helped bring a darker fabric to life.

Despite being much darker than I normally wear this one has been in heavy rotation during the holiday and then wearing it to work since then. I just wish it was as light and airy as my other lawn pieces which would be a great help in this sweaty weather.

Pattern – Deer and Doe Myosotis

Fabric – Liberty from The Fabric Store Sydney

Alterations – omitted pockets for speed of sewing, don’t do that again!

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Sewing Adventures – Harriet Bra

This year I’m working on refilling my lingerie drawer as my bras are in desperate need of an update.

I’ve started with the Harriet Bra from Cloth Habit, not only is it a super pretty bra it mimics RTW styles I already wear but most importantly it can be made without foam.

The heat of summer is getting hotter and longer. Last summer I promised myself it was going to be the last summer I wore foam bras, they are sweaty, hot and generally just add to feeling hotter and sweatier.

Measuring  myself against the size chart I went with the exact size the chart told me to do. To check the fit I cut out a tester version in plain cotton with the Direction of Greatest Stretch being the bias of the cotton fabric. Once cut I quickly sewed it together without elastic then basted in the power mesh back and back closure.

Once it was together I tried it on, the band was ok sitting flat without too many wrinkles, the lower cup however was all wrong. I had a flat section above the wire casing and I was spilling at the top of the cup.

I set about trying to fix this by tacking out the cups and resewing the lower cup with a fractionally bigger seam at the join and a smaller seam at the base where the underwires would be. Sewing the cups back in I tried it on again and it was looking better.

Writing my notes and annotations directly onto the pattern I cut out this pink lace. It’s lined with cream non stretch mesh and for construction I followed the very excellent instructions though in a moment of “what was I thinking?” I managed to sew the wide picot at the base of the band on incorrectly. Something I didn’t notice till I had also sewn in the underwire casing so I just left it. The pretty underarm edge (shown below) made up for my mistake.

Once done I was really happy with how it looked and fit but I wanted to wear it a few times before I decided if it was good enough? After a few wears I’ve noticed

  • yes it is cooler than foam
  • the band fits well apart from the incorrectly sewn on elastic
  • at the side bust the sides come up too far causing chafing and discomfort at the front of the underarm, it’s also visible on some of my dresses
  • I sit a little low in the cup. You want to sit down into the cup so you are correctly encased but there is correct and looking like you need to be pulled up a bit.

After some research I found a great article on Emerald Erin explaining how and why you should shorten the upper cup in order to get more “lift” noting that down along with the other alterations I made plans to cut another.
in the meantime this one is infinitely wearable and very pretty!

Pattern: Harriet Bra by Cloth Habit

Fabrics : lace, mesh back hooks, and underwires from Underwired. Strapping, O ring and sliders, casing and elastics from Pitt Trading.

Alterations for next time : achieve more lift, scoop out underarm