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Sustainable Sewing – small measures

There has been lots of talk about making your individual sewing more sustainable throughout 2018.

Much I agree with and some I find a little eyebrow raising as they are either false economy or the claims against the fashion industry are contrary to my own experiences. Regardless of that, any move towards trying to reduce waste is a concept that should be embraced.

As such in my own sewing this year I have been trying to do a number of things

  • I now rarely use calico for toiles. Sometimes but not always. Instead I have moved towards “wearable” toiles. Using up fabric that is in my stash that I know I’m not going to make up otherwise. Sometimes I still use calico but in those circumstances I’m trying to re cut the calico to use more than once or re purpose it to use as lining etc.
  • finishing toiles. Now that I’m using “proper” fabric the momentum is there is finish the garments off properly, especially when it comes to swimwear samples! Many friends have benefitted from this with swimwear samples going every which way.
  • When cutting out fabrics I keep a number of small patterns nearby. Once I have the main garment cut out I use the “scraps” to cut into bags, eye masks and other useful items. Then when I have a spare 20 minutes or so I can whip up once of these items. I’m using them as Christmas gifts or looking to donate them to someone who has a Christmas craft stall for charity. My favourite patterns for these have been Noddlehead Petal Pouches, Noddlehead forage bag, Wee Braw Bag and a standard eye mask pattern.
  • I’ve been keeping all my tiny scraps with the idea of dropping them off to H&M for recycling at some point.
  • Perviously I have always been meticulous with matching my exact thread colour to my fabric. Having lost my entire thread stash in the fire, I’ve been much more relaxed about what colours I use. Friends have gifted me threads throughout the year and I’ve been taking great delight in using the whole roll and dropping the empty spool into the recycling. I feel like I’m not wasting thread always rethreading. This is especially useful when making toiles but I still cannot use the wrong thread colour on any external stitching.
  • using my stash. Naturally losing much of my stash in the fire has made the remainder feel so much more precious. But rather than keep it for “good” I’ve elevated everyday to good and am cutting into everything. My goal is to reduce it still more by making garments to replace what I have lost and not continue to stockpile things I really love which ultimley can be lost in one simple accident.
  • making things I might have purchased. In addition to garments I’ve made tote bags, placemats, peg bags and a bunch of stuff for the home. By making more than just garments I feel as if I’m reducing the amount of mass produced products I buy. Tote bags have replaced plastic grocery bags and beeswax wraps have replaced plastic wrap.
  • printing A0 instead of cutting and taping or pasting. Not only a time saving but I’ve always found taped pages come apart and need reprinting but the A0 fold and store easier. Having lost my whole paper pattern collection I’ve been reluctant to re buy paper patterns as if anything happens they are gone, whereas digital can always be printed again.

As we head into a new year I’ll be thinking of more ways to do my part to reduce waste.

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2018 total makes

All year I’ve been keeping a tally of what I’ve made, I thought it would be an interesting way of seeing how productive I actually am.

Bessie swimsuit – fabric purchased 2018 from Rathdowne Fabrics

Emma slip in dark floral – fabric purchased 2018 from Pitt Trading

Tote bag in grey with pink spot – fabric from stash (originally from Spotlight)

7 kit bags in bunny print cotton –  fabric from stash (originally from Spotlight)

1 Peg Bag in Cat print lightweight canvas – fabric from stash (originally from Miss Matatabi)

Papercut Patterns Sway dress – fabric from stash originally from Pitt Trading, cream tassels purchased 2018 from Pitt Trading. Pattern given to me by a friend.

Grainline Linden sweatshirt – grey marle fleece printed with sloths from stash originally from Spotlight. Pattern given to me by a friend.

Grainline Yates coat – double sided suede from the stash originally from Pitt Trading. Pattern Purchased 2018

Tote Bag in Sloth print – fabric from the stash, originally from Miss Matatabi

Emma Slip with lace edge – fabric from 2018 Sydney Spoolettes swap, lace and fold over elastic purchased from Pitt Trading 2018

Emma Slip in lemon and pink floral – fabric from stash, original purchased from Pitt Trading. Lace and elastic purchased from Pitt Trading 2018

Darcy Boxer shorts in Navy cotton – fabric from stash originally from Pitt Trading, Buttons purchased 2018 from Pitt Trading. Elastic from Prym as part of my sponsorship from them

Deer and Doe Myosotis Dress in Liberty Lawn – tiny square print, fabric from stash, originally purchased online from a Liberty sale last year and then posted to The Englishman’s parents and picked up at Christmas. Buttons from Pitt Trading purchased 2018.

The Bingley Boxer shorts in star print cotton – fabric from Pitt Trading, given to me as the sample was used for store promotion

Deer and Doe Myosotis Dress in Liberty Lawn – tiny pink splashes print, fabric from stash, originally purchased online from a Liberty sale last year and then posted to The Englishman’s parents and picked up at Christmas. Buttons from Pitt Trading purchased 2018.

5 x wee braw bags – fabrics from Quiltsmith purchased 2018 for this purpose. Trims purchased from Pitt Trading 2018. Pattern  purchased from Craftsy

3 x Knitting size wee braw bags – fabrics from Quiltsmith purchased 2018 for this purpose. Trims purchased from Pitt Trading 2018.  Pattern  purchased from Craftsy

Jalie Clara Tights in Camo Print – fabric from stash but originally from Pitt Trading, Pattern purchased as a PDF from Jalie 2018

Jinbei shorts for The Englishman –  fabric from stash but originally from Pitt Trading, pattern salvaged from fire but originally from Nomura Tailor Kyoto

Papercut Patterns Adrift dress in pink lawn with large white flowers – fabric from stash but originally from Lincraft 2017, purchased on sale.

Papercut Patterns Adrift dress in floral silk – fabric from Pitt Trading 2018

10 Beeswax wraps –  beeswax a gift from SewBusyLizzy, Fabric from Quiltsmith and Pitt Trading all purchased 2018

Black, pink and spot pre printed tights – fabric from Pitt Trading 2018

Blue floral pre printed tights – fabric from Pitt Trading 2018

Cherry Blossom pre printed tights – fabric from Pitt Trading 2018

Tote Bag with lemurs – fabric 2018 from Pitt Trading as part of their #pitttradingbanthebag promo

Claire swimsuit – blue swim Lycra from stash originally from Pitt Trading

Bessie swimsuit – black, black and white print from Pitt Trading 2018

Nina Lee Kew dress – pale peach broderie anglaise from stash originally from The Fabric Cave, buttons from Pitt Trading

Angled hem waisted dress – hot pink Shibori cotton from Fibers to Fabric 2018 Gift as part of collaboration

penguin wee baw bag – fabrics purchased 2018 from Pitt Trading

Penguin drawstring bag – fabrics purchased from Pitt Trading 2018

Penguin sleeve bag – fabrics purchased from Pitt Trading 2018

6 rope bowls – rope purchased 2018 from lost Property HK Etsy store

Stripe jinbei shorts for the Englishman – fabric from the stash

Bingley boxers- pink destination fabric from Pitt Trading 2018, Prym elastic

Darcy boxers – moped fabric from stash originally from Pitt Trading, Prym elastic

maree swimsuit – pink Turkish print Lycra from stash originally from Pitt Trading

maree swimsuit – aqua belle print Lycra from stash originally from Pitt Trading

Darcy Boxer shorts and matching drawstring bag in Australian Christmas fabric from stash but originally from Spotlight. Elastic from Prym sponsorship

Casmerette wrap dress in jungle print rayon jersey from Pitt Trading – this one was made as a sample for the Pitt Trading Summer Soiree so is actually for one of the other girls working there.

Louisa swimsuit in autumnal florals and blue – from Pitt Trading – this one was made as a sample for the Pitt Trading Summer Soiree so is actually for one of the other girls working there.

Nina Lee Kew dress in red hail spot cotton from Pitt Trading this one was made as a sample for the Pitt Trading Summer Soiree

Elite Directo Bike Trainer Cover – cat fabric from Pitt Trading Purchased 2018

4 drainage bags – fabric purchased from Spotlight 2018

Papercut Patterns Sway Dress in Cranes – fabric from stash originally from Spotlight

3 Wee Braw Bags using up the leftovers from the Drainage bag fabrics

Seamwork Alamada robe in silk viscose- purchased from Pitt Trading 2018

Jalie Cocoon cardigan – merino wool from the stash originally from The Fabric Store

3 PICC covers – fabric from Pitt Trading

Rutland Collection wrist warmers – merino wool from the stash originally from The Fabric Store

Deer and Doe Magnolia in Rayon Challis purchased 2018 Lincraft on sale

Modified Myosotis Deer and Doe in white embroidered lawn purchased 2018 from Pitt Trading

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Sewing Adventures – Wee Braw Bag

Yes another Wee Braw Bag but this one is just for me!

As before I’ve used fabrics I picked up at Quiltsmith before they closed and the drawcord is from Pitt Trading. Because this one was for me I combined cats, sloths and sewing!

You can see why I like this cotton and steel fabric so much!

After making so many of these bags I’ve been finding that a longer drawcord is much easier to deal with and you get this lovely oversize bow which is also really pleasant to look at.

You can also see how a bigger drawcord allows you full access into the bag (yes I used cat fabric lining).

The big front pockets are great for storing bits and pieces. I’ve been using this one to hold my embroidery and as I’m stitching I stash my scissors in there.

Pattern: Wee Braw Bag available on Craftsy

Fabric: from Quiltsmith.

Alterations: None

 

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Sewing Adventures – Darcy Boxers Christmas Edition

Feeling the pre Christmas pressure? wanting to make something useful at the last minute? The Darcy Boxer Shorts have got your back!

This cute Christmas edition pair make for a great present and I know some families have the tradition of matching pyjamas for everyone to wear Christmas morning. Add a simple white tank top and Christmas themed Darcy Boxer Shorts and you will be picture perfect in no time.

To make these even more gift ready I’ve made a very simple drawstring bag to hold the boxers. I thought you could use the drawstring as eco wrapping or it would make a great alternative to hanging up a stocking?

Pattern: The Darcy Boxer Shorts from Measure Twice Cut Once

Fabric: Australian Christmas themed fabric from Spotlight, elastic from Prym, drawcord for bag from Pitt Trading, buttons from Rozelle Markets.

Alterations: none

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Sewing Adventures – Penguin bags

I had 40cm of each of the pink and cream penguin fabric from Pitt Trading, after making a Wee Braw Bag for a friend and fellow workmate, I just knew I had to make up the extra penguins.

I had originally intended to make a super sized wee braw bag….and then forgot to sew the pocket on as I made the bag. Yep great work there Susan.

To rescue the pocket I turned it into a little pouch which you secure the top edge with a drawstring closure. Simple and effective.

These Japanese printed cottons which are like a very lightweight canvas are a dream to sew and perfect for bags like these. I’ll certainly be getting more next time Pitt Trading get some in.

I’ve been trying to cut and make things as soon as they come into the house this year, not even giving them a chance to hit the stash. Once I’ve made the main thing I then try and use the scraps up by making small bags or useful things. I think it’s been a great help in being more productive with less waste. Do you find that with your sewing?

Pattern: based on The Wee Braw Bag by Laura Zuckerkuss

Fabric: Penguins from Pitt Trading, drawcords and cotton lawn lining all from Pitt Trading

Alterations: not make the mistake of not adding the pocket properly next time!

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Sewing Adventures – Darcy Shorts Vroom Vroom edition

The Darcy Boxers are by far my most popular pattern, no doubt fuelled by the fact it’s FREE but also because it makes wonderful presents for everyone in your life.

I’ve been getting in some extra Christmas sewing with this cute animal on mopeds fabric I had left over from another project. Turns out I had enough to fit a pair of Darcy’s and my Prym elastic was the perfect colour match.

This Prym elastic is the business when it comes to making boxer shorts look and feel like professional ready to wear garments. Soft and super plush it’s a dream to wear. Sewing wise I’ve found it good but a few pointers. It does not like being unpicked. It’s so plush the stitches sink right in which is great for wearing, not so good for unpicking. It loves a twin needle or a coverstitch machine. I’ve done this one with my coverstitch and it was a dream to attach that way. With the elastic being quite strong I found that stretching it in place worked really well.

I’ve tried the butting together and zig zagging in place elastic method but have found that just a straight stitch then folding over and topstitching in place. Works just as well and looks neat. Also handy for when you don’t have matching thread to hand.

The finishing touch was these vintage red plastic buttons I picked up at Rozelle Markets.

Pattern: The Darcy Boxer Shorts by Measure Twice Cut Once

Fabric: from stash, originally from Pitt Trading, buttons from Rozelle Markets

Alterations: none

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Sewing Adventures – stripe jinbei shorts for the Englishman

I feel like I’ve made and documented this style of short I make for The Englishman so much that I have nothing new to add about them? Am really just putting them in as a blog post as a way to document all my makes.

Same pattern as normal, this time no elastic drawstring only.

Fabric that I’ve used for him before and this was the last of it. I’ve been conscious this year of trying to use all my stash. So if something has been set aside for a particular project then I’ve cut and made that project. Am not sure if it helps reduce the stash but it feels like it reduces the need to get new things when I can just use what I’ve got.

It gives an odd sense of satisfaction to see the stash diminishing so am hoping I can keep using up pieces and turning them into useful practical things like these shorts. I’d rather see the fabric being used than see it wasting away in the stash.

Fabric: From stash

Pattern: Jinbei shorts from Japan

Alterations: didn’t have any elastic so made them all drawstring

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Sewing Adventures: Papercut Patterns Sway dress in Cranes

Remember this Crane Fabric? Purchased towards the end of 2017 I had grand plans to make it into a floaty maxi dress, then we had a fire and while the fabric survived it ended up with marks all over it.

With my hopes of a pretty floaty dress dashed I had an instagram poll to see if it should be a dress or a kimono. Overwhelmingly the vote was kimono, so naturally I made a dress.

When I laid it out to cut I realised it was just too marked and if I made a kimono I’d never wear it outside the house. So I thought the better use was a soft flowing style dress I can wear around the house in the hot summer months where no one will care if it’s all marked.

I used the Papercut Patterns sway dress earlier in the year to make a navy rayon dress, which I really like wearing. I feel pulled together but not constricted. I’ve done the same mods here making it longer, but I’ve ditched the facings in favour of bias binding around the neck and armholes and instead of a waist tie I’ve zig zagged lingerie elastic into a low waist to create a blouson effect.

It’s comfy and perfect for hot days and after all those dreams of a floaty maxi dress I’ve come to the conclusion that while I adore the colour and print, it really is too pale for my skin tone. Also as evidenced by my face in this photo, I don’t love it. I feel blobby in it and it adds extra bulk where bulk is not needed. Fine for an around the house dress on hot days but otherwise a bit meh

Pattern: PapercutPatterns Sway Dress

Fabric: Rayon from Spotlight

Changes: added length, didn’t add pockets, no facings used bias binding instead. Didn’t use belt. Added lingerie elastic to low waist.

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Sewing Adventures – Drainage Bags

When friends and family get sick it sucks. Often there is very little you can do to help. Lately I’ve been feeling like that with more than one family member facing a battle. I did what I could by making drainage bags. Thanks to Emma aka Ernest Flagg for the pattern.

Construction wise they are fairly simple, fully bagged out with a tie top so it’s adjustable for the height and position of the person using it.

These are some Jocelyn Proust fabrics from Spotlight. The fabric itself is stiff and stable. Annoyingly the pattern repeat is directional or in the case of one of the prints about 20cm wide and super obvious. Quite frankly for “designer” fabric from Spotlight I expected better.

If you have some stash fabric about and some time to spare think about making some up and contacting a local charity to drop them off, am sure they will be much appreciated. I actually made 2 versions. One where the total length is 100cm and one where it is 110cm. This way I could fit it lengthwise or widthwise on the fabric and never use more than a metre to make a bag. The actual bag section is approximately 35cm wide at the base by 32cm high. Again sometimes I made adjustments in order to make it fit the fabric and they are still plenty big enough.

If you are in Australia and want to make some, here are some charities that accept them

BosomBuddies

A simple Gift of A Bag Hill District Sydney

A simple Gift of A Bag

Am sure there are many more worldwide who would appreciate any help from the Sewing Community.

Pattern: From Emma and then adjusted

Fabric: Prints from Spotlight and cotton lawn lining from Pitt Trading

Alterations: am not super happy about the bagging out. I feel like there should be a more efficient way to make these?