Named patterns – Measure Twice Cut Once

Posted on 13/06/2017 by Susan Goodwin — 2 Comments

Everyone deserves Pretty Lingerie: Named Asaka Robe

I’ve made this pattern once before for a friend and always wanted one of my own and yet just hadn’t got round to it. Then early last year we had our very first Sydney Spoolettes Swap meet (you can read about it here). Where I picked up this lovely Japanese cotton. It has an ombré fade across it and a printed panel edging on one side. I knew it would be perfect for this robe.

I had to be super careful with my pattern placement so the fade would be consistent across all the panels. But I was running just a fraction short on the front panels. A quick bit of cut and slicing later and there are extra seam lines near the shoulder at the front. Honestly am not even sure anyone would notice if I didn’t point them out but it meant everything fitted on correctly.
The neck band was a great way to utilize the printed border, again I had to add some seams to make it work but it looks so good I’m glad I took the time to sort it out.

Wanting an entirely clean finish I stitched on the underside with the idea of turning under the front and top stitching it down. However when I tried to do this I had nowhere near enough fabric and raw edges to deal with!
I took it into Pitt Trading with me and had a fun time matching trims to cover up the raw edge. There was a lovely lace trim that looked so pretty but I wanted to get it done quickly so I went with this lilac petersham ribbon. It’s just stitched over the top of the raw edges to keep everything neat. The excess I used to create the waist tie with.
Despite being incredibly lightweight it’s a lovely gown to wear. Not great on very cold nights but as a lovely cover up for warmer weather it’s just about perfect.

I like that despite the dramatic sleeves you can still use your arms (in fact am typing this while wearing it!). Here I am tucked up with my robe and quilt, it’s very hard to take a downwards photo while sitting.

It even looked good draped across the bottom of a hospital bed.

Highly recommended and perfect for gifts too.

Pattern: Named Asaka Robe

Alterations: changed front band construction to have clean finish, then had to add ribbon to fix the gap.

Fabric: from Sydney Spoolettes swap, thank you whomever dontated it!

Posted on 08/02/201623/05/2019 by Susan Goodwin — 2 Comments

Named Clothing – Beverly Twisted Bikini Sewalong, adding elastic to the bottoms

How’s everyone going so far with their bikini’s? Don’t forget to share all your progress on social media using the #sewbeverlybikini hashtag.

In this installment of the sewalong we are tackling the elastic on the bottoms. The most important thing to remember when using swimwear elastic is to not stretch it. It is to be put in under tension (by very gently pulling it) but not stretched. If you’ve pulled so hard that the width of the elastic has decreased then you’ve pulled too hard.

Start by pinning your lining in position. Here on the front you can see the lining is cut without the seam allowances. I’ve done the back differently so you can see 2 ways of attaching the lining/elastic.

I’m using my overlocker to attach the elastic. Line up your elastic underneath the foot but not right on the edge of the garment. It’s actually easier to cut off a slither of the fabric while attaching the elastic. If you line the elastic right to the edge it is way too easy to cut into the elastic and that way causes dramas.

I always attach my elastic in the flat and once I get back to the start point I just lap the elastic over and run the overlocker off the edge. It’s by far the easiest and flatest way to do it. Flat is good as elastic joins tend to poke in and get uncomfortable.

The instructions had you cut your lining slightly smaller than the outer garment. This means the elastic sits only on the outer fabric and not on the lining.

Personally I find this method slightly more difficult as you have to make sure the lining tucks in when you do the topstitching.

An alternative is to cut the lining the same size as the outer fabric and catch it as you add the elastic in. I find this easier to sew and it stays in place no matter how active a swimmer you are as it’s anchored evenly across the entire pant. This is the back where the lining was cut the same size as the outer.

Once you’ve attached your elastic it’s time to fold it down in preparation for topstitching. Lycra plus clear elastic often makes for it difficult to pin through. You could use quilting clips to hold it in place or even just clothesline pegs.

For topstitching you can use a twin needle, a zig zag or a 3 step zig zag. I’m going with my 3 step zig zag as I like the way it looks. When you are topstitching you don’t have to pull or stretch the fabric, you do have to ensure you keep a straight edge. Where the elastic is tucked under it tends to like to roll, if you let it you end up with a ropey looking edge and get puckers. Make that edge nice and smooth as you topstitch and it will look beautiful and professional.

After topstitching I’ve gone back and checked my lining to ensure it is flat and even. On the back where the lining was cut the same size as the outer. It sits flat.

On the front where the lining was cut smaller it looks ok but there are a few places where the lining hasn’t been caught into the topstitching. You can see it on the left hand side of the crotch and the upper left hand side of the waist.

Here is the finished pant.

If you have any questions about the elastic application just ask in the comments, next time we will be moving onto the top.

Still need your pattern? Named have set up a 20% discount code on PDF and printed patterns of the Beverly Twisted Bikini that can be redeemed until the 10th of February. Just use the code sewbeverlybikini at the checkout.

Stitch56 are also offering 20% off the paper pattern with the code BIKINI

Share your choices on social media using the hashtag #sewbeverlybikini so we can see what everyone is making.

Posted on 03/02/201623/05/2019 by Susan Goodwin — Leave a comment

Named Clothing – Beverly Twisted Bikini Sewalong – Part 1

Welcome to the Beverly Twisted Bikini sew along! I do hope you are going to enjoy making your own bikini. Don’t forget if you want to join in, you can use the discount code sewbeverlybikini at the named clothing site to purchase the pattern.

Before we get to cutting out the fabric, check your sizing and assemble your pattern.

Some of you may find you will be a different size top to bottom, I’m cutting a 46 bottom* and a 44 top. Part way through the bottoms I’m going to try them on to see if I need to adjust the sizing as I like quite a firm fit on my bikini bottoms so I can swim with no worries. The seam allowance is included in the pattern (I’m using the PDF, if you are using the paper pattern please double check if seam allowance is included before cutting) so you can cut or trace without having to add the seams afterwards.

We are going to start with cutting out the bottoms including the lining. Before cutting your lining, read the post adding the elastic to the bottoms as there are 2 methods of lining used there and it makes a difference to your cutting. I’m using this stunning red paisley from Pitt Trading with a contrast centre front panel in a matte dark red also from Pitt Trading.

Here are all my panels ready to go. When cutting be sure to cut with the greatest stretch going around the body. If you are dealing with a tricky print and want to avoid unfortunate print placements try cutting out your pattern piece in tracing paper. Cut it as a whole piece not place on fold and you will find you can see through the tracing paper to the print and avoid the poor print placement choices.

Starting with the Twist panel we are going to put ride sides together and sew along the top edge. I’m using my overlocker but you can use the stretch stitch on your regular machine if you would prefer.

Turn the tube right side out and give it a press

Using a straight stitch add rows of gathering or basting stitches to either end. Pull the bobbin thread to create the gathers until you’ve gathered it in enough fit into the side of the centre front panel.

Twist the panel once and pin or baste it into place. Make sure you hide the seam of the band so it won’t be visible on your finished bottoms. Pinned in place you can see it buckles the front panel slightly. Once I put them on this buckling was not noticeable at all and the twist sat nice and flat to my body and didn’t sag forwards so don’t worry about the buckling.

Position side panels and sew in place.

Take front lining and crotch lining, sew seam.

Place front panel and back panel of main fabrics right sides together, matching at crotch. Take front and back lining fabrics, right sides together match at crotch and place them on top of the main panels.

Stitch through all layers.

When you open them up the seam you’ve just sewn should be tucked inside the lining so no exposed seams are on the inside of the swimmers.

*If you need to check your sizing, pin or baste your side seams and pop them on. You want them to feel firm but not tight. The stretch of your fabric must be used, if they feel loose when they get wet they may not stay in place. Mine could be a little firmer so I’m going to take an extra seam allowance from the side seams.

Using the same technique you’ve just used to sew the crotch, sew the side seams so all internal seams are encased inside the lining.

In the next installment we will be attaching the elastic and finishing up the bottoms before heading on to do the top. If you’ve got any questions or queries just ask in the comments.

Don’t forget to share your makes on social media using the hashtag #sewbeverlybikini