Posted on Leave a comment

Sewing Adventures – Cloth Habit Harriet Bra – Blue

Every so often I fall in love with a piece of fabric, colour and print and big motivating factors and well this fabric it was one of those swoon at first sight type moments. It came in during a shipment of designer fabrics when I was working at Pitt Trading and I was lucky enough to grab some before it was all sold out. Quite simply its gorgeous, based on some traditional Japanese style influences mixed together it’s exactly the kind of “lets put everything together and blend it” style print I’m drawn to.

Then when making this bra I decided to take the multi hued elements of the print and step further and use non matching trims to make the bra. Bt rights, this many colours, types and print mixed together should be a dogs breakfast. But it’s not it all came together in one of my most favourite makes ever.

The pattern is another Cloth Habit Harriet Bra with a few extra modifications. On my original I added some extra to the lower cup so I sat down into the cup more and adjusted the seam allowance at the bridge to allow it to be fractionally wider so the wires didn’t sit on top of each other.

These changes I was happy with but I want a little bt more projection and lift. When I wear the pink one I totally want to pinch out a section at the top to bring everything up. So I did, well sort of. Using this explanation from Emerald Erin I adjusted the upper panel and now I’ve got more lift and projection!

With these changes I think I’ve got the fit almost perfect for me, they are super comfortable to wear and I like the shape they give me, it’s not the high rounded shape of a full moulded foam cup but honestly am over that look anyway.

Pattern: Cloth Habit Harriet Bra with modifications for fit

Fabric: printed mesh and trims from Pitt Trading Inner lining and back closure from Underwired.co

Alterations: I think I’m pretty close with what I’ve done already.

Posted on 1 Comment

Sewing Adventures – Orange Lingerie Lexington Bra

Well it’s been a big time for bra making around here lately. I’ve been pressed for sewing time so smaller projects that I can fit in a little bit at a time have been working well for me. Plus I needed new bras so win win really.

The Lexington is a non wired bra that uses bra strapping to give shaping and definition with its cute cross over style. I had purchased it pretty soon after it came out with the hope that I could get it made up in time to wear on the plane for our trip. Sadly I ran out of time for that to happen so I was pretty glad when I had some spare time a few weekends ago to cut one out.

Using a printed stretch mesh as the outer, a crystal lycra as lining and cream power mesh for the back (all from Pitt Trading). Initially when I cut the pieces they looked so big that I was a little worried. That feeling of them being too big lasted all the way till the first time I wore it and once it was on, it was so comfortable that I forgot about that entirely. It is very full coverage and I might slice the top down fractionally but it doesn’t look bad just kind of lots of fabric.

Constructionally it went together well and the instructions are nice and clear. I also followed the online sew along on the blog that explains how to get the central cut out. The way the cut out is done is a bit clumsy, sewing a section in and then cutting it out just felt weird. You can see the remaining fabric around the central cut out. It looks kind of cute from the outside but the size of the cut out is way bigger than I was expecting. I like it but I think I want to try a version without it as I hope I like that even more.

Wearing it feels really good, decent shape, very comfortable no bits that dig in or pinch in any way. It’s not the full shape of a wired bra but vastly better than most non wired bras are.

Pattern: Lexington Bra from Orange Lingerie

Fabric: Printed stretch mesh, crystal lycra, cream power mesh, pink strapping all from the stash originally from Pitt Trading. Apricot hook and eye from Booby Traps

Alterations: this version follows the cut out shown on the Orange Lingerie blog. Next time I want to try it without the cut out but with the non hook and eye back (also shown on their blog)

Posted on Leave a comment

Sewing Adventures – pink lace Emma Slip

This seems to have been one of the hottest summers I can remember, endless days where the heat doesn’t go down at night. I like summer I like the sunshine and being able to go swimming all the time, however, I do like sleeping and lately, it’s been so hot overnight that you just can’t get to sleep. Bedtimes keep getting later and later putting off that inevitable moment where you have to lie on a hot mattress.

Naturally I’m looking to help the situation through sewing. My plan? to make a super lightweight version of the Emma Slip and this pretty stretch lace from Pitt Trading is just the kind of thing I was thinking of.

I’ve made this one to the suggested length for the size 12, I often cut them longer because I like the silhouette that way but this time it’s shorter, it’s the 14 skirt width attached to the 12 bodice and I’ve shortened the cup by about 1cm at the centre front where they cross over. I’m quite high busted (short person proportions) and I was getting a little ripple at that point due to excess fabric so the shortening of the cup takes care of that.

One of the things I really strove for when developing the Emma slip was that it would be a pretty fast make and this one certainly was. The most fiddly bit is attaching the O rings and sliders to the straps.

Pattern: The Emma Slip by Measure Twice Cut Once

Fabric: Pink stretch lace from Pitt Trading

Alterations: shortened front cup, 14 skirt width, 12 skirt length

Posted on 2 Comments

Sewing Adventures: Emma Racer Back Slip in lemon and pink

A sweet Emma in lemon and pink! I actually had made this exact version before but lost the garment in the fire and when I discovered I still had some I knew I had to replicate it.

It’s a slinky jersey knit from Pitt Trading with pink lace trim and pink fold over elastic also from Pitt Trading. I love that their range of lace trims is so large you can always find a colour that is going to complement your fabric choices.

Much like my last Emma I’ve gone for a 12 top and graded out to a 14 bottom half. I’ve also been keeping them at the longest length. I’m just liking the silhouette of the longer line.

As you can see from my photos of all my Emma’s I have been trying hard to get better photos. It’s so much easier when you can shoot outside like I did for my Me Made May challenge. Hopefully with some more practice it will get slightly easier. Right now all I can see is the flaws in me and the photo.?

Pattern: The Emma Racer Back slip and bralet from Measure Twice Cut Once

Fabric and trims: slinky jersey, stretch lace and fold over elastic all from Pitt Trading

Alterations: This version made at the longest length on the pattern, see how it goes during sleep before deciding if I should keep it at that length or not?

Posted on 3 Comments

Sewing Adventures – Emma Racer Back Slip with lace

Another Emma! this time with added lace. I really like how this one turned out, I made the variation with the lace and like how the black lace works so well with the darker style print.

The fabric was picked up at the Sydney Spoolettes first fabric swap of 2018 (2nd from the top in this photo. It was smallish but you need so little for this pattern that I knew I could make it work. It’s super soft and the original owner said she got it from Knit Wit in Perth.

It’s slightly firmer across my stomach where I’m lopsidedly swollen after surgery but am not worried as thats something that is unique to me and not the pattern fitting incorrectly.

Since my last version I’ve sized down the bust area to a size 12 but kept the body at a 14 but apart from that no other changes.

One of the reasons I wanted to do a racer back slip is that I am a very wriggly sleeper. Normally slips fall off my shoulders and I get all tangled up in them. This narrow curving back fits perfectly and stops the slip from moving off me as I wriggle in my sleep. A great solution that also looks flattering.

I also got to use my overstitch machine for the hem, was very exciting. Am still in the early stages of knowing all the ins and outs of the machine but so far very impressed.

Pattern: The Emma Slip by Measure Twice Cut Once

Fabric: Sydney Spoolettes fabric swap 2018 and black fold over elastic and lace from Pitt Trading

Alterations or changes for next time: None

Posted on Leave a comment

Everyone Deserves Pretty Lingerie Week is Back!

It’s that time of the year again, the annual Everyone deserves Pretty Lingerie week! I started this week years ago to encourage everyone to make pretty knickers and it’s since grown to encompass all things underwear and lingerie.

So I encourage everyone to take a look at their lingerie supplies, patterns and wardrobe and decide they need something a bit pretty, something nice and go out there and make it this week!

I’ll be popping onto the blog all week with different bits and pieces from pattern releases to sharing of new makes of my own.

Blog yours too or if you are on instagram keep an eye out for the #everyonedeservesprettylingerie and #everyonedeservesprettyknickers hashtags to see what everyone has been creating.
Happy Sewing!

Posted on Leave a comment

Sewing Adventures: another lingerie set

Not content with giving my friend one matching set of lingerie I thought I’d add another not quite a set to her parcel.

After the success of sewing the Delphine thong I decided to try another one, this time in a soft stretch lace and without the additional back coverage.

The lace from Pitt Trading is so lovely to work with but was so soft that the very end of the plate on my sewing machine was catching ever so slightly as it went though.

A quick fix was to use some wide washi tape to cover the plate and hey presto! Snag free sewing.

I really I thought the thong would pair perfectly with a plain black satin bra but as I was running out of time to get it finished in I cheated a little. In my teaching bag I often have samples of pieces that are not quite finished so I can show students diffferent steps along the way. A bit of a rummage through the bag and I found this black lace triangle that only needed a little bit of finishing off.

Together they make a nice not quite matching set.

Pattern: Delphine thong by Ohhh Lulu, my own pattern for the triangle bra

Fabric: Laces from Pitt Trading, elastics and trims from my stash

Alterations: None

Posted on 2 Comments

Everyone deserves Pretty Lingerie: Ohhh Lulu Romper

I’ve long admired Ohhh Lulu patterns and her style. I really like the fabrics and lace combos she comes up with. They seem cute and feminine but with this cool edge to them somehow?

 

The Evelyn romper is one I’ve been swaying back and forth on since it came out. “Oh it’s cute!” “Perfect to help use up my silk stash” to “is it comfy?” “Are the legs too short?” “Will it look weird on my shape?”. So I finally gave in, bought it and made it up.

I got the .pdf and it went together well, there is a slight mistake on one of the first pages where some of the size lines are marked incorrectly. Just keep an eye out for it and once you have the pages taped together trace your own size using a highlighter so it doesn’t get confusing.

First the sewing. It’s a bit of a fabric eater as it’s all on bias but not overly so. According to the sizing I’m a different bottom to top size so as I cut out the bottoms I angled the side seams to match the same same I was going to cut the top in. I dived into the stash and found a cute vintage cotton seersucker to use.

Once I started sewing it went together with utter ease. Everything lines up, all the sizes match together. Such a nice way to sew when patterns just work.
The self fabric bias is a really nice touch. I like the wider style on this cotton but I think if I did use a silk I might take it narrower just to add to the delicate nature of the style?


Initially the waist is meant to be a casing that elastic is threaded through. Because this is a toile and I have heaps of lingerie elastic I used that instead and topstitched it into place. The triple stitch zig zag made short work of it and looks wise it’s fine on the cotton. Again on a fancier silk set I would do the casing as I think it looks better in the fabric with more sheen.


Comfort wise I’m still testing them out. I’m a super wriggly sleeper so wasn’t sure how they were going to fare or if they were best suited for lounging about at home in the hot weather? They are very cheeky cut on the bottom, like very. Someone asked me if it could be used as a romper for day wear? Well it could but it would expose quite a lot of your bottom?

The front comes quite low exposing cleavage but you don’t feel like you are going to fall out of it? I don’t know how to properly explain it but it kind of covers you up and yet shows a lot of skin at the same time? Cute but certainly puts it in the wear to bed only category.
Pattern: Ohhh Lulu Evelyn Romper very cute would make again
Alterations: narrow bias binding for silk, do waist casing for silk, potentially add some length and even lace to the leg hems?
Fabric: vintage printed cotton seersucker from the stash

Posted on Leave a comment

Everyone deserves Pretty Lingerie Week 2017

It’s back! a whole week of pretty lingerie because everyone deserves to have pretty things!

Lots planned for this week to show off some of my more recent makes, there’s been plenty of robe wearing going on here, so I’ll have a run down of a few patterns that I’ve used and some other bits and pieces that I’ve made. The whole point of the week is to encourage everyone to grab some pretty fabric and a pattern of their choice and make something just for them. Go on and give it a go, I know you will enjoy it.

Plus just for fun a good old fashioned blog button

<a href=”http://www.measuretwicecutonce.com.au/2017/06/everyone-deserves-pretty-lingerie-week-2017/”><img src=”http://www.measuretwicecutonce.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/2017-knickers-website-button.jpg”/>

Posted on Leave a comment

Sewing Adventures – The Georgiana Knickers

To say that 2017 has started with a heatwave seems to undersell just how hot it has been in Sydney. I don’t mind hot weather as mostly I can escape it by staying in during the hottest parts of the days, going swimming and walking on the shady side of the street. Heat at night is a whole other thing. I honestly don’t think I’ve slept properly in weeks it’s been so hot overnight.


So I’m looking for every ounce of coolness that I can get. With an hour or so spare today I whipped up 2 pairs of woven cotton knickers using my Georgiana knicker pattern. They are quite fast as all the edges are done using the roll hem function on my overlocker. I love the neat finish my Bernina 800DL gives on roll hems.

They are bikini cut so sit on the hip but have plenty of fullness to the bottom ensuring full coverage. The woven cotton however is delightfully breezy and cool and the perfect thing for this hot weather.


The patterned fabric is part of my stash busting efforts for the year as well. I had this top


Cut out for ages and half made. It was one of the free Peppermint magazine patterns. It just looked weird on me and so I never finished it but I loved the fabric.

Laying it flat I placed the Georgiana knicker pattern over it and cut them out. You can just see some extra seams on the front where I had to add side panels to make it work. A great rescue from a piece that had been condemned to the bottom of the stash.


Fabric: spots from the stash, patterned fabric rescued from a top that went badly. Original fabric from Pitt Trading.
Trims: plush back elastic from my stash
Pattern: The Georgiana Knickers available in the shop
Changes: added extra seams to the front of the patterned pair to be able to fit the pattern onto the top.