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Sewing Adventures: a tale of 2 dresses

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Over the past few weeks I have set myself the task of getting my “to do” pile of sewing down to a more manageable size. My usual way of preparing a garment to be sewn is to cut it out, include all the fabrics, trims, interfacing, pattern etc into a jumbo zip lock bag, seal it up and add it to the in progress box. This works great, it keeps things tidy, the cat is less likely to want to sleep on top of it and if I can’t get to it straight away then I can’t lose any of the pieces.

Cynthia Rowley detail

In working my way through the stack I came across 2 very pretty dresses. This Cynthia Rowley one from Simplicity in navy and the Gathered Sundress from Pattern Runway in white. Both cut out in Japanese Lawn. Setting aside some time I made them up, as it got closer to the time to add in the zips something became very clear.

I’ve put on weight.

These are not going to fit. Now normally this would relegate them back into the “to do” pile, but I need the space. So I finished the dresses. The navy Cynthia Rowley style only needs a zip in the side seam and it’s done. The white Pattern Runway dress needs a centre back zip and the hem to be done. So all in, these dresses need less than half an hours work to be wearable.

Cynthia Rowley, Pattern Runway

I however need more than half an hour. I’ve not been exercising as much and some incredibly high stress levels means I’ve been stress eating. In addition to weight gain this has also meant an increase in migraines and some other issues, most of which I know are more easily taken care of when I am being active.

So my plan is to pop them in the cupboard, work away with my fitness and my diet and in a couple of weeks try again. Then if they don’t fit, I try my fitness again, basically repeat until they fit.

gathered pocket

Now I want to be very clear, this is not about size, this is about fitness. When I am fitter my body has a different shape,  it gets stronger, it supports me, physically and mentally I feel better. After a winter of plenty of working from home (comfy track pants and loose tshirts may feel awesome, but they also hide when the weight starts to change), too much comfort food and not enough exercise has turned my muscle to pudge. Pudge sits on my body in a weird way and this is why things aren’t fitting the way they should.

Once again sewing has taught me to enjoy and use all the skills I have in all areas of my life. Because when one gets put off balance there are follow on effects. In this case it means dresses that don’t fit now, but it’s OK. They will fit later and in the meantime act as good incentive to get moving.

So has anyone else ever had the problem of not fitting into their projects? or anyone want to come and get fit with me?

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Sewing Adventures: stash busting (even the crazy stuff)

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Stash busting sewing was in full force this weekend using up some cute polka dots and checks into a few pairs of knickers.

The Lizzie Knickers with in check with elastic and lace from the stash. I can never get these to sit straight for a photo but they are very cute to wear.

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The Georgiana Knickers using up the Kermit the frog green crazy coloured elastic. Because when you are serious about stash busting it all has to be used at some point?

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Closing in on yet another full year of stash busting and it doesn’t feel yet like I’m making a big difference? Am hoping the last few months of the year result in some big amounts being used or that when I re shuffle everything it will take up less fabric tubs than it currently does? Here’s hoping?

Edit Note: the original version of this post had the black knickers incorrectly listed as The Charlotte Knickers. They are in fact The Georgiana Knickers, a more bikini brief style than the fuller more coverage version that is The Charlotte. Apologies for any inconvenience this may have caused. I can only attribute the mistake to me being very tired and not thinking clearly.

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Shibori Workshop

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For years I’ve been fascinated by the indigo dyes of Japan and the designs of Shibori. It truly is an art form and their inky seductiveness is too good to resist.

I’ve also seen plenty of DIY/online type tutorials that look amazing and some sewists have had some absolutely fabulous results with their own efforts. So all of this got me hunting for a way to learn more about how to create these looks.

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A late night trawl through Instagram led me to Shibori  a Sydney based workshop that not only sells breathtaking pieces but also conducts workshops. A few emails later and they agreed to put on a special beginners workshop that we can fill with sewists.

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Numbers are very limited so if you’d like to come along let me know as soon as you can and we will make arrangements for the class fee.

Details are

Date: 18th October

Shibori Studio: 30A Salisbury Rd Stanmore NSW 2048

Cost: $110

Class includes: provisions to make 1 x scarf, 1 x approx 2.5m length of fabric. You can also bring fabric from home.

Wear: Comfortable clothes that you don’t mind getting dirty and appropriate shoes.

All images via Shibori_textiles Instagram feed

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Sewing Adventures – Paris Malvarosa dress

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I have dreamt about going to Paris for forever, like forever forever. In my mind I always had it worked out that I could be there in July when it would be summer, I could celebrate my birthday there with The Englishman, the couture shows are on and the Tour de France finishes in Paris. Add in some cheese, bread and pastries and we are pretty much getting close to all my favourite things in one place. So far that is yet to happen, but I have been living vicariously though the Instagram feeds of Roisin and Christine. Jealous much? um yeah, a whole lot of jealous.

So instead of being in Paris for my birthday I found myself in Bondi Junction Spotlight and saw some lovely Japanese Lawn (I adore this fabric so much). Not overly thinking it I saw it as a lovely geometric print…then I realised no, it was mini Eiffel towers with lasers shooting out of it! SOLD!

I needed something fun to make out of it and settled on the Pauline Alice Malvarosa dress as I love the ease of construction, no zips, no buttons! Plus it’s breezy style is perfect for this odd inbetween type weather we are in as I can match it with tights and a jacket and then as it warms up wear it on it’s own.

I finished it up last week and was wearing it to head to a meeting so grabbed 3 very quick photos before I headed out. Only 3 because I had a meeting and it was so windy this day that I couldn’t wait to put my jacket on.

Malvarosa dress 1

I’m standing weirdly and the wind has caught my skirt but I’m pretty happy with the dress. I find the lawn gets a better drape to it after it’s been washed which means the skirt looses some of it’s poufyness at the gathering which is good. The wrinkle above the bust is due to me being slouchy more than anything else.

I didn’t get a back shot but I get some slight pooling at the lower back, am unsure if it’s because the gathering skirt was sticking to my tights or if I could take it in a bit? I’m not bothered by it as I prefer a drop waisted dress to be loose and breezy but I’d like to see if I can fix it?

Much like my last Malvarosa I didn’t bother with the facings, just bagged the whole top out for a clean finish.

One last photo of me trying not to laugh and telling The Englishman to hurry up so I can put on my jacket. The complete derp face photo I’m saving for instagram as it’s just too “what the?” style face. So funny.

malvarosa dress 2

 

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Sewing Adventures: Baseball Singlet as pyjamas

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I really like pretty pyjamas, and yet I don’t own any? This hasn’t really bothered me until lately and I realised how bad my pj’s had gotten. I kept saying oh I’ll buy some and then never finding ones I liked or walking away from the store thinking I can make that. So I rummaged in the stash and found this cute knit I had picked up from The Remnant Warehouse.

In my quest for prettier nightwear I’m using the Baseball Singlet from the Basics Collection.

Basics collection_ baseball singlet

Made up as per the instructions. I experimented with a different kind of decorative stretch stitch my machine has. No reason other than I was curious to see how it would work and I thought it was fun.

Baseball  singlet

For  the hem, armholes and neckline I didn’t overlock/serge the edges like I normally would as the fabric is quite fine. Instead I made sure the decorative stitch was catching the turned under amount and finishing it all for me in one go.

baseball singlet interior

It worked really well, especially on the curved hem. It’s a great way to finish fine knits, all you need to do is experiment with the stitch types and lengths. Oh and press the hem well before stitching so you can get the stitching in a nice straight line.

I love being able to make these simple things that honestly I used to buy and always felt bad because they were so cheap and after a few washes just look horrible. Now I can use up prints in the stash or keep an eye out for cute knits and have a bit of fun experimenting with them.

It would be a nice introduction to anyone wanting to sew knit fabrics as there are few seams and a variety of finishes to choose from. For more experienced sewers it’s a great quick make with loads of satisfaction in being able to whip something up and then move onto the next project.

I hope everyone else enjoys making them as much as I do.

Am already thinking a pair of The Mary Knickers in the same fabric would make an awesome matchy matchy set and perhaps the perfect summer pyjamas?

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New Releases – additions to the Basics Collection

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Even though it’s technically meant to be winter here in Sydney it seems my brain and the weather have skipped straight to summer and so I thought a timely release of some summer tops was in order. So here are two brand new releases for the Basics Collection.

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Women’s tank top featuring bound straps and stretch band at waist. Sure to become a wardrobe staple as you layer it under jackets, wear it on it’s on in the summer time and mix it up with some trims to make cute sleepwear. A very versatile wardrobe addition.

Suitable for knits. Body ideal for combed cotton knit, jerseys,interlocks and single jerseys or knits with lycra. Need a minimum of 5% stretch. Binding can be self fabric, fold over elastic or woven bias binding. Band fabric Ideal for Rib knits, knits with an elastane/lycra/spandex content is necessary.

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Women’s Baseball Singlet with scoop hem and low back. Featuring twin needle neck, armholes and hem. Perfect for a warm summer day with a low scoop back (not too low you can still wear a bra) and then the curved hems skim over the hip ensuring a flattering look over the stomach.

Suitable for stretch knits with more than 5% stretch only. Ideal for knits, jersey, interlocks, ribs and lycra blends. An elastane/lycra/spandex content is highly recommended for a better fit.

Both are available right now in the shop.

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Blog Hop

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The very talented Beth from Sew DIY has nominated me to be next in the Blog Hop. It’s aim is to share a little bit about the creative process and what inspires us to share and create. It’s been wonderful thinking over why and how I create. I highly recommended  if you are feeling a little chaotic or down, take some time to reflect on your makes. It will lift your spirits and give you a renewed sense of accomplishment!

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Why do I write?

I write because it’s one of the easiest ways to communicate. I wish I could talk to everyone in person and explain all my ideas and designs. That however would take a lot of time and involve a lot of travel. So while that would be awesome, I can’t afford that much travel.

Instead I write and try and communicate my ideas and design philosophy that way. I love to share ideas and knowledge so I’m trying to communicate as much “stuff” as I think is interesting to people. Sometimes I get stuck, in that I have too many ideas and no way of knowing if people would find it deadly dull or really interesting? When that happens if I find it interesting, then it goes up.

What am I working on?

I’m working on new patterns, so many ideas and plans happening there. I have 2 new patterns releasing tomorrow!

So far I’ve been working at releasing patterns as mini style ranges and this idea is going to continue. I want everything to co ordinate together so it becomes part of a larger more cohesive brand philosophy. I’m big with planning and from working as a designer we tend to plan out our collections 12 to 18 months in advance. I’ve been taking this approach with Measure Twice Cut Once and have a release schedule planned out. This helps me to be organised and allows me to slow down a little too. Sometimes I want to rush and get it all out there. Then I sit back and look at the schedule and say to myself “no there is a plan here, stick with it”. I want the business itself to be sustainable but also fun. Sewing is enjoyable and I want to encourage people to sew and create their own styles in a way that is difficult to do when you have to rely on ready to wear.

Personally I’m also working on some sewing of my own. I want to be ready for summer so I’m trying to add in some pieces that were missing last summer. Sewing for myself goes in cycles and it seems so much of my summer garments have just worn out, am looking forward to replacing loved pieces and finding new styles to try.

This year I also set myself some sewing challenges. One of which was making my own underwear, so I’m looking forward to finishing up some bras very soon. I’m also stash busting and have found some truly wonderful pieces that I have loved adding to my wardrobe. I’ve really liked setting myself a challenge this year, am thinking over what I should challenge myself to sew next year already.

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How does it differ from others of its genre?

I hope it does? I’m trying to share my knowledge of working within the fashion industry and how I mix that with my own sewing and of course, developing patterns.

I think I’m still finding my voice. Working on what I am trying to communicate. Long term I’d like to have the blog contain informative posts about the patterns, new release’s and hacks/DIY’s you can do with the patterns. Plus I’d like it to have more series and articles covering design and how things are approached from an industry viewpoint. I tend to pull inspiration from everywhere and feel like sewers could learn from industry in the same way knowing how to sew influences my design and industry practices. It’s not a case of one being better than the other, more of a collaborative duo that can benefit from each other.

I also want to show more of my own makes, I’m terribly behind on my own makes as I keep putting them aside for more sample testing or patterns. In looking back over the blog for the Blog Hop it’s the one thing that is glaringly obvious to me. I need to show more of my own pieces, not only to show the person behind the brand but also I genuinely enjoy the comment and feedback from the sewing community. So that’s a big challenge I am setting myself and have the determination to make sure I don’t fall behind on it again.

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How does my writing process work?

I open a post and write? I try to write like I talk, but I also like to be organised so there are plenty of pre written posts that get scheduled in advance. I want to try and share knowledge as much as possible so I try to write in a way of sharing and I hope that comes across?

I have lists and lists of topics I want to write about, so I write a list and then try and add it to a plan. Sometimes people will ask a question or mention something in passing and that sparks an idea so it all goes on the list and then I filter it out later when I sit down to write.

To keep myself on track I have an iCal colour co ordinated schedule so I know what posts are going live on what dates. This way if work or life gets in the way there is always something happening on the blog. I deliberately leave gaps though as I want to be spontaneous and celebrate things as they happen too. I work as a freelance designer a lot, so I will go from weeks of non stop to to a break of a few days or a week and then back again. It can be tiring but it also forces you to be organised about everything. From buying groceries to getting the washing done. So in the quiet work times I like to bank as much work as I can here on the blog so that the creativity of my day job feeds the blog and vice versa.

As part of the Blog Hop I get to nominate the next creative person to join in. I’m choosing the lovely Erin from Dog Under My Desk, not only does she do the most amazing bag patterns, she is soon to take the big leap and come to live in Sydney! I can’t wait to finally meet her in person.

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Sewalongs – a few questions

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I had a lot of fun doing the sewalongs for the knickers during Everyone deserves pretty Knickers week.

It also taught me a lot. How to take photos to show the techniques, what fabrics work (or don’t work) and the need to actually be able to see the stitching.

However I don’t want to just rely on what I think is a good solution. So I’m going to throw some questions out there and hope that you all have some time to pop a quick comment on the blog so I can combine my ideas with your ideas and come up with a good solution.

  • do you like sewalongs?
  • if a sewalong was posted in one go would that be good? or do you prefer stage by stage?
  • for faster projects is it better to be a step a day and finish within only a few days or one step per week over a few weeks?
  • do you mind if your blog reader has sewalong posts in it or would you prefer them in a separate stream you can choose to subscribe to?
  • white backgrounds for photos or it doesn’t matter?
  • does contrast coloured thread make you break out in hives or is it better to see the details with?

Is there anything I’ve missed out? Seriously throw your ideas out there, sewalongs are for you so I want to make sure I come up with the system that suits you the most.

Thanks for taking the time to comment and help come up with a solution!

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Racer Back Singlet – fabric choices

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Writing about fabrics is so difficult. Do you go super indepth and technical, do you make it so they look at garments they already have. What if the fabrics are called different names in different countries. What if you suggest a fabric and someone tries and it doesn’t work?

This and a million more questions bombard my brain when I go to write about fabrics. So much so you’ll notice that this post is out of sequence to what I told you was going to happen in the Basic’s schedule.

So I’m breaking fabrics down and going with what feels right.

All fabrics are different and a fabric that may work perfectly for me may not work for you. Reason being is not all fabrics are created equal and we all want things to fit in a certain way. So before we even get into specific fabrics my best advice is to make your muslin/toile/sample in as close as possible fabric to your final fabric. Ideally if you can make it in the exact same fabric that would be awesome (though not always practical or affordable). If you use something with super stretch to it and make all your adjustments based on that and then the next time you use the pattern you use something with barely any stretch then there are going to be issues.

So number 1 tip – use the same or as close as possible fabric as you can for your muslin/toile/sample.

Number 2 tip – check your stretch % and mark it on your pattern so when you come back to it you can check your new fabric and see if changes need to be made. Your future self will be happy with you if you do this.

To check % I tend to grab a piece of paper and draw a 10cm square on it (hint: use the size test piece included in your pattern). I cut a 10cm square of fabric or I mark 10cm square on the fabric. Stretch the 10cm of fabric as far as you can and mark it in the paper. Do this for the height and width of the fabric square. You want to cut out with the stretchiest direction of the fabric going around your body not up and down. Measure how far over the 10cm your fabric stretched and then turn this into a %.

Number 3 tip – measure yourself, measure the actual pattern pieces (allow for seam allowances). Choose the size that suits you best taking into account the % stretch you can use from your fabric. Ideally for the Race Back Singlet you want to use a little bit of stretch but not all of the stretch. If you are using it for a super fitted or swim top then you may perhaps want to use more of the stretch but just make sure you can still breathe ok?

Once you have that you can cut out and start sewing. In order to get to this stage though we need to talk about some specific fabric choices. In the pattern I’ve suggested

Suitable for stretch knits only. Ideally for 1 x 1 Rib knits, jersey, interlocks. An Lycra/spandex/elastane content is highly recommended for a better fit. The finished garment measurements are measured without the aid of stretch so you can see you need a proper stretch fabric to ensure a good fit.

1 x 1 Rib – rib is beautiful to wear, soft and supple it gives you stretch and comfort. Look for lightweight ribs that feature a high % of cotton for a nice comfortable top. Some ribs will contain Lycra/spandex/elastane and some are finished with an elastomeric finish. This is a treatment that is added to the rib after it has been made and should be a permanent finish (meaning it’s not one that washes out).

Jersey – now this is a name that gets thrown around alot to describe almost any kind of knit fabric. I tend to use the term in the same way as Wikipedia does. A single layer of knit fabric that is most suitable for t-shirts. Jerseys can be a bit more stable than other knits so check your stretch % and measurements. I like jersey because it is stable and sometimes we don’t all want super soft clingy style fabrics. It also comes in different weights which can be super handy when building a wardrobe consisting of layering pieces.

Interlock – a softer more supple type of knit fabric. Interlock is often found in undergarments and very drapey styles of knit. This softness is wonderful to wear and play with though I can sometimes find it slightly unforgiving and prone to showing all the bumps.

With Lycra/spandex/elastane  – the addition of any of this fibre will increase a fabrics stretch. The amount of Lycra added to the fabric is often given as a $ for example 95% cotton 5 % Lycra. This is not the same as stretch %, sometimes the 2 get a little mixed up.

Incorrectly some swim, dance and performance fabrics often get referred to as “Lycra”. While they may contain Lycra it’s more likely the actual fabric is a polyester/Lycra or a nylon/Lycra. This is good to know when searching online for fabrics and the terminology is different from the generic terms you may be used to using.

All of these fabrics would be good choices for the Racer Back Singlet and I hope you have fun experimenting with the style of fabric that suits you best.

 

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Additional inspiration for Basics

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Last week I shared with you some inspiration from The Designer Manual and how you can treat any pattern like a block and bend it, twist it, hack it to make it your style. Today I’m back with some extra images of inspiration that would all work perfectly with the Racer Back Singlet pattern.

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1 – scoop out the underarms to create this look, paired with a black pencil skirt for an unexpected but fashionable ensemble. Image via The Sartorialist.

2 – a painterly fabric is on trend and adds a pop of colour to your look. Image via Friend in Fashion

3 – The always stylish Jessica Alba pairs a singlet with coloured skinnies and a blazer, I could’ve filled an entire inspiration magazine with cool photos of her rocking singlets.

I cannot find the correct image link for this one, if anyone knows can they let me know so I can update?

4 – a lace back can really showcase the beauty of the fabric. Image via KeC