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Sewing Adventures – Lexington Bras

Some things are impatient and just push their way to the front of the sewing queue, these bras were certainly one of the ones that jumped the list. With the pandemic continuing and the potential for more lockdowns coming the need for some comfortable work from home bras was increased.

I’ve made the Lexington Bra from Orange Lingerie twice before. The first time was as the pattern was as, the second time I split the lower cup to add in a little more volume. This time I kept the volume on the lower cup and shortened the lower cup, front triangle and back bands by 5mm.

On the ones I had made previously I was finding towards the end of the day the lower elastic had flipped up. At first I put this down to it being too tight but after some investigation I realised the bra was too long for me. I’m only 5 foot tall. I’m well used to having to adjust patterns to my proportions. In hindsight it’s actually surprising I didn’t pick this up earlier.

Technique wise I tried something new, using my overstitch machine I attached the elastic using the single needle chainstitch. The outside looks so neat and I’m so pleased, the inside I’m less pleased with as the loops of the chain stitch shows up so much on the mesh. I’m hoping it wears well but am already thinking I’d like to try the wide twin needle to attach the elastic with as well. It’s always neat to be able to keep trying and learning new things.

As it is a few hours sewing, 2 more beautiful bras and my lingerie drawer is well on it’s way to being the riot of pattern and colour I’ve always wanted. As always I’m using what I have on hand so the back clasp on the blue one isn’t 100% the correct shade of blue and on the blue/grey I went with a contrast of a peach closure. I love the fact it’s not 100% matching as I feel better about having something using up what I have already.

Pattern: Lexington Bra by Orange Lingerie

Fabric: patterned mesh, power mesh and lightweight mesh, elastics, hardware all from Pitt Trading, back clasp from Booby Traps

Alterations: so far pretty good but lets see how these ones wear in

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Sewing Adventures – Sashiko Kinchaku or Rice Bag

For some time now ‘ve been enjoying the meditative quality of sashiko stitching. It’s enjoyable and fun to embrace the joy of stitching with the knowledge that it doesn’t have to be perfect to work. Mostly I use pre printed panels to stitch on as they make it even easier to be a project you can take with you anywhere. Upside is ease, downside is what to do with the panels once they have been stitched?

So far I’ve turned panels into placemats, coasters and now I’ve combined pre printed panels and boro stitching together to make a kinchaku or rice bag.

The original pattern is from BeBeBold and meant to be quite a bit smaller than the one here. But I didn’t want to cut down my pre printed panels so I supersized the pattern to create this.

Construction wise it’s a square bottom and 4 rectangular sides (same for the lining) all sewn together and pulled through an opening in the lining to end up fully lined. After closing the internal opening up these nifty little plastic hooks were added to the outside. The plastic has a U shape that slides down over the top edge of the fabric. A metal nail is then inserted into the hole of the plastic hook, through the fabric, through another hole on the other side of the plastic hook and out again. Bashing it down and flat with a mallet ensured it stays in place and there is no pointy bit to scratch your hands as you enter and exit the bag.

Waxed cotton cord is then thread through from either end to create a double sided drawcord. It really was a super simple make and I love the final shape it’s so lovely. I can’t wait to make some more!

Pattern: from BeBe Bold

Fabrics: Sashiko panels and mixed indigo pack, waxed cord and plastic loops from BeBe Bold. Japanese cat fabric (internal) from Pitt Trading

Alterations: this is a super big bag and I think I’d like to make one in a smaller size too?

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Sewing Adventures: Sashiko cloths or Hana Fukin

Ever made anything where you weren’t entirely sure what it is you were making? that’s the situation I found myself in with these sashiko cloths. I ordered them from a Japanese site with only minimal translation. I thought I was purchasing pre printed sashiko panels…which I was. These ones are a little different, the fabric is slightly lighter weight and the print has an extra panel off to one side that was printed with Japanese instructions.

Using Google translate I tried to read the instructions and couldn’t not make head nor tail of it. So instead of you know looking things up and getting expert advice I blindly waded on in with stitching. In hindsight I wish I had figured it out better but as it is it’s not a huge issue just more a case of not being correct which vexes me and I feel I’m being disrespectful to the beautiful work of the Japanese stitchers who make these.

The cloths are actually Hana Fukin which translates as flower cloth or kitchen cloth according to the research I’ve done so far (this is by no means extensive and I may have got it wrong). It indicates a soft useful cloth normally with a flower design stitched on it that is used a cleaning/polishing/useful everyday cloth.

Because I got my instructions wrong I stitched the cloth first before folding it right side together, stitching around it on my machine then turning it right side out before stitching the turning hole closed. It works even though I’m fairly sure I did it wrong.

Despite my misunderstanding they were a joy to stitch and are actually wonderfully useful in the kitchen, I tend to use them as a napkin replacement good for wiping fingers when they get sticky etc. Like many of my other sashiko pieces it’s incredibly joyful to have beautiful pieces to use everyday because there is no sense in only keeping the beauty for “good”.

Fabric – pre printed panel bought randomly on the internet and now can’t find again but similar ones can be found at BeBeBold

Pattern – pre printed but next time I’m going to find out the correct way to do them

Changes – get better at translating instructions

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Sewing Adventures – the making of a sports bra

Sports Bras are something I’ve long resisted making, there is a whole lot of technical things encompassing science, research, body movement, fabrics and more. My favourite RTW sports bra for running is by Shock Absorber and I’ve never worn anything so constricting feeling when you first put it on and yet comfortable while I’m running. You literally don’t even think about it which means it’s doing it’s job perfectly.

For non running sports I use some Nike ones that are getting older and will need to be replaced. They compress well, stop bounce and allow for a full range of movement while having a brilliant level of moisture wicking.

As such I’ve never really bothered with making my own, but I was kind of interested in at least making a toile. I started with the Greenstyle Power Sports Bra. Using their size guide I measured my bust and underbust to sort out my band and cup size. Checked my fabric against the recommended stretch percentages and made a first toile.

From the first toile here are the changes I made

  • reduced the overall circumference by 15cm – some at the side seam and much from the back. 15cm equals 3 sizes which is just kind of crazy size wise.
  • smoothed out the bust point so the curve wasn’t so severe
  • raised the neckline by 1.2 at centre front
  • raised the underarm by 1cm

For the second toile I used the same quality outer fabric but added a lining of power mesh to the front. The powermesh was cut to be most compressive on the side bust, less compressive over the front. The back panel was double layer of the outer fabric both cut on the reduced stretch to help aid compression. The photos showing a red version is this one. I wasn’t happy with my sewing on it as I felt like I rushed it a bit and I absolutely hated how the straps went on it looks so messy and unprofessional.


From this toile the changes made were

  • add 3cm back in circumference to account for lesser stretch of power mesh
  • bust curve needs to be reduced more so the curve is less pronounced but the volume stays the same
  • raise neckline by another 1cm
  • raise underarms – check this while being worn for exercise though as it can be a chafe point
  • reduced strap length by 6cm

For the next version I want to change a few more things

  • the way I attached the shoulder straps which looks messy and isn’t very strong
  • change the entire back construction for a neater finish at front strap join and side seams
  • smooth out the bust point more as with the extra layers of power mesh and lining it’s just rippling and projecting too much. I’m even considering splitting the seam and putting it somewhere else as right over the bust point is not necessarily the best place for a seam in a garment designed to be sweated and moved it. Chafing, rubbing, friction etc
  • adjust the base of the top so that it sits flatter to the elastic band without looking puckered or gathered

The sheer number of changes and alterations are kind of making me think while I started with one pattern it’s certainly only going to resemble a fraction of the original by the time I get done. I’ll try with the changes listed above and if I’m not liking the results then I think it’s time to ditch this pattern and spend time finding a more accurate pattern.

Pattern: based on Greenstyle Power Sports Bra but now heavily modified and still not correct

Fabric: from Pitt Trading and it’s lovely, am actually slightly sad I used it on something that I’m so disappointed in the fit on

Alterations: all of the above

 

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Sewing Adventures – fun with remnants from Home Industry

One of the great things about sewing is that you can make anything, solve problems, make your wardrobe, your home look better. Home Industry in Sydney is one of my all time favourite homewares stores. Each time I visit I ask can they move the counter out and can I just move in and have the whole place as my home. It’s gorgeous, a mix of curated fabrics, exquisite upholstery and vintage finds that just seamlessly go together to create a rich and inspiring environment.

When they asked did I want to try out some of their new remnant packs I couldn’t say yes fast enough. A few days later we did a socially distanced drop/pick up and I got two lovely packs. One in a series of navy, blue and taupe and the other in orange, sage and cream.

Today I’m sharing what I did with the navy set. Prior to getting the remnants I’d done some research into what I wanted/needed. Recently we invested in a cast iron pan for cooking. It’s a big skillet perfect for hearty one pot meals and can be used on the stove top and in the oven as well as on the BBQ. Apart from being incredibly useful its also big, heavy and retains heat for ages…all good things for cooking all bad things for tiny kitchens with no space. What I needed was an oversize potholder type thing to rest the pan on. Some oversize pot holders to actually get the thing in and out of the oven would also be handy.

With that in mind I’d ordered in some heat reflective wadding as well as some bamboo wadding to layer up to help insulate the surfaces. I’ve used the heat reflective one before and one layer is fine for say a bowl of soup but for getting pans in and out of the oven I find myself folding them in half or over again to give more layers of heat protection than what is available.

Having decided what I was aiming for I set up my sewing machine, grabbed my cutting mat and rotary cutter and just had fun. seriously sewing with no plan beyond a vague ‘this kind of size’ type outline is so refreshing. I photographed the stages as I went along saving them to my instagram stories but essentially by lunch time I had 3 varying sized “tops” that I could turn into pot holders. The fabrics were beautifully co ordinated and beyond having to straighten one or two seams I had virtually no scraps or leftovers. Every single piece of the pack was high quality useable fabrics.

The beauty of the packs was that it made it easy for everything to coordinate as they were already so perfectly put together. In order to use some of the pieces more fully I added some decorative touches like topstitching using a zig zag stitch or sewing so the selvedge was visible. Being able to do this really brought the pieces to life and added to the joy of sewing them together.

For the 2 smaller ones I also used the selvedge to create a loop holder so I can hang them up near the oven for ease of use. In fact it’s such a handy way to store them I’m going to add a loop to the big one too.

In just a few hours I had one small pot holder style one, a middle size and a large (bigger than A3)size. Each with 2 layers of bamboo wadding and 2 layers of heat reflective wadding with the base being some Japanese cotton I had in the stash. Infinitely useable, practical, pretty and just so fun to sew!

Pattern: made up as I went along

Fabrics: Remnant packs from Home Industry, base from stash originally from Pitt Trading, wadding from Spotlight

Changes: make more time for this kind of improvised fun sewing!

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Sewing Adventures – Lexington Bra in Sports Lycra

Before I get into the making of this bra I’m going to say “wow it’s hard to take a decent photo of a bra”. The cups look all wrinkly, the straps never sit straight. It’s just really hard. I have a dressmaking dummy but she is only a size 10, I am not a 10 so I can’t use it for photos so I have to do a flat lay and every time I’m less than happy with the results. Hints, tips and suggestions for better pics eagerly welcomed.

Now onto the bra. It’s an Orange Lingerie Lexington Bra. my last one can be found here, I like how it fits, the shape it gives and the fact I can wear it all day without being uncomfortable or looking like I’m not wearing a bra. However the front x doesn’t sit flat to chest. Which it should. I researched a bit, read some great debates on the Bra forum on facebook and experimented a little.

In the end I decided to try adding a small amount of volume to the lower cup. Hoping that this meant I sat into the cup more reducing the strain on the central x allowing it to sit flat to my body. This teal blue and patterned version is a working test of this pattern to see if my idea was correct.

As with my last version it has lined cups but regular stretch fabric over. This sports mesh has a greater stretch so I’m also keen to see how that reacts to being worn all day. The fabric is actually a moisture wicking performance fabric available at Pitt Trading which was gifted to me by my friend @lizardbookworm it feels perfectly smooth and lovely colours so it was fun to match with a bright teal elastic I had in the stash.

Am looking forward to seeing how it wears and what my next version will be like.

After wearing my verdict is the adjustment to the lower cup has worked well but the sports mesh while super comfortable isn’t quite as supportive as the mesh in my last version. Expect to see another version soon!

Pattern: Orange Lingerie Lexington Bra

Fabric: Pitt Trading for fabric, hardware and elastics. Back hook and eye from Booby Traps

Alterations: added volume to lower cup

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Sewing Adventures – Hail spot printed mesh Harriet Bra

My goal is to replenish my entire lingerie wardrobe so I have correctly fitting bras that are comfortable and pretty! So it’s another Harriet bra.

This is a printed hail spot mesh that I got from Pitt Trading, it’s greens and purples printed on a white base so I paired it with a white picot, white power mesh back and white hook eye closure. I had planned for the bottom of the front to be white as the print had this wonderful straight line where the print started. I’d decided to use this as a feature so the bottom would be white to match all the trims together.

Unfortunately I used a non stretch mesh as the cradle lining. it’s in a colour that matches my skin tone and normally looks quite invisible. except apparently under this mesh because instead of looking transparent it changed the tone of the hail spot mesh to be much more tan and completely lose the impact of the white line. It now just looked dirty and like I had cut it badly. At this stage I almost recut but decided no at the very least it’s still wearable even if it’s not visually how I wanted.

Because we are currently trying to stay at home and not go out I’m using only what I have in the house to finish off projects. I’m not going out just to get matching elastics. So when I realised I didn’t have enough wider plush elastic for the lower band I improvised. My improvisation included the same width picot as I’d use for the cups and then a decorative topstitch of some strapping elastic in green. Not only did it add strength to that lower band it also helped cover up the non white, white panel at the bottom of the cradle. It works quite well and was a good solution given the situation.

After my disaster sewing on my last Harriet I really wanted to pay attention to my sewing and get a neater finish. I think I did ok at this but always there is room for improvement (I see you non clipped section on left hand side!)

Eagle eyed bra makers will also see there is no lining in my upper cup. I’ve tried this a few times and the non lined section is much more comfortable for me, I also find if I do add a lining in there I can end up with a quad boob look which is not a look anyone wants.

As always I’ve used a mix of colours, fabrics and trims to try and create a harmonious overall colour scheme. Even on a more muted colour scheme like this one I wanted to mix up the elements to bring something else to the style so that it felt more like my style. I’m super keen to make matching knickers for this one because I think it’s going to be a fun challenge.

Pattern: Harriet Bra from Cloth Habit

Fabric: Printed mesh, white power mesh, elastics from at Pitt Trading. Underwires, hook and eye from Underwired.co

Alterations: now that I have my fit working for me I’m at the stage where I can just cut and make which is quite fun

 

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Sewing Adventures – Ohhh Lulu Romy Bra

Another week, another bra! or more accurately my need for more comfortable pieces now I’m staying in all the time. The Ohhh Lulu Romy has been on my to make list for forever and the other day I had the machines all set up to sew lingerie so I grabbed some extra pieces and cut this one out. It’s really small pieces so I even managed to cut it out of some scraps left over from other projects which is fantastic as it’s yet another pattern that can be used to reduce waste.

It went together really well. I’ve lined the front cups with the same soft pink mesh that the upper panel is out of. This meant all the internal seams could be clean finish which not only looks nice is also super comfortable.

After attaching the lower picot elastic I thought I should check the sizing and while the cups were ok, the band was way too big. Mostly because the fabrics I’m using are super stretchy, especially the floral it’s got lots of give to it. So I cut the panels back thinking I’d swap it to a pull on style as this is essentially a tester to see if I like the style and if it’s comfortable. Cut off what I thought was excess and finished it all off. Now it looks small and it’s a slight wriggle to get on. Have I made it too small now?

I’m going to wear it for awhile and see what I think. In the meantime it’s looking super cute and I’m hoping I have enough leftovers to make matching knickers!

Pattern: Ohhh Lulu Romy pattern

Fabric: floral – poly jersey knit I got from Cabramatta, Pink mesh and elastics from Pitt Trading

Alterations: made it pull on by cutting off some of the back – wear to see if that works

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Sewing Adventures – Harriet Bra – Mint and Pink Edition

This whole bra could be used a lesson in something you really wanted to be excellent but some silly mistakes and sewing while tired means that it just falls short of your expectations.

It’s the Harriet Bra from Cloth Habit with the adjustments mentioned here and here. Essentially this is meant to be the same as the blue printed mesh version I made but here are just some of the mistakes I made

  • I forgot to sew the bride SA smaller to give me a wider bridge
  • in my haste I sewed lining into the app cups which gave me a lovely quad boob look till I figured out what I had done wrong and cut it out. Fixing the quad boob look but leaving me a slightly irritating upper cup seam
  • forgetting to change the colour thread back correctly and sewing one at night and one during the day which means the underarm is sewn on in 2 different thread colours
  • instead of placing the bra flat before cutting off the casing at the underarm I cut it while holding it, resulting in cutting it straight and not on the angle to line with with the elastic. Had to rescue it/sew it closed with some stitching below the elastic

Honestly I know it’s all small stuff but it looks so pretty and then I see the issues and just shake my head at myself. Don’t sew while tired/stressed/annoyed at yourself.

Apart from the issues it looks amazing and I really like the fit. With a limited amount of lace I feel like I managed to cut it so it looks like it was planned that way and not just a result of “making it work” I’ll definitely be using similar methods in the future.

Pattern: Cloth Habit Harriet Bra – with fitting modifications

Fabric: Mint Powermesh, hot pink lace, strapping all from stash but originally from Pitt Trading.

Alterations: Slow down, take more care!

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Sewing Adventures – Silk Scarf with fabric from Pitt Trading

You know how sometimes you’ll be watching a cooking show and the “recipe” ends up being open packet of biscuits and place it next to open container of dip. You roll your eyes and mutter about how that’s not a recipe, that’s just assembly.

That’s a little how I feel about this project, it’s less sewing and more just assembly. The silk is from Pitt Trading, it’s ridiculously lightweight. A whole metre can basically be folded into the space a handkerchief would fit in to.

Initially I had thought of making a blouse but honestly it’s so lightweight and lovely as it is I didn’t want to mess with it too much. Cue putting it away for a bit of time until I decided what to do with it? I found it again as I was hunting for something else special I had tucked away and knew immediately what I wanted to do.

Swapping my overlocker into roll hem mode I went around the entire outside edge, smoothing off the corners to be slightly rounded. If I include the resetting of the dials on my overlocker the whole thing took less than 10 minutes. Sewing win! and I have a pretty new scarf all ready for the cooler weather (if it turns up).

Pattern: – um there wasn’t one?

Fabric: From Pitt Trading

Changes: watch the beginning/end point of the roll hem to get a smoother transition