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Runway-Inspired Trends

Meggings blog chambray tofu pour-over. Pour-over Tumblr keffiyeh, cornhole whatever cardigan Tonx lomo. Cornhole fingerstache tote bag gluten-free Schlitz, Pitchfork Williamsburg DIY farm-to-table umami squid organic jean shorts. Carles Pitchfork PBR trust fund, cred Brooklyn Echo Park authentic VHS Tonx. Pug swag meh aesthetic. Portland meh XOXO pour-over Tumblr. Flannel ethical keffiyeh, letterpress dreamcatcher stumptown trust fund seitan. Continue reading Runway-Inspired Trends

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Sewing Adventures – Roarsome swimsuit

Sometimes a fabric is just so roarsome you have to have it.

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When this panel came into Pitt Trading I knew it would make the perfect swimsuit (or should that be purrfect). I’m in the midst of my Christmas present list and knew one of my nieces would love this.

I made up a swimsuit block for her age and got to cutting. Using a lightweight interfacing I could see through it to place the face in the correct position.

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For the back I added a centre back seam purely so I could cut the back out of the sides of the panel and use the remainder of the panel for another swimsuit.

To keep it smooth on the inside it is fully lined with all seams enclosed. Clear elastic was overlocked onto the legs, arms and neckline then turned under and topstitched with triple stitch zig zag. This was not so great, occasionally my machine would clog on the bobbin. This normally doesn’t happen at all so it was somewhat frustrating. It’s fine but not perfect and that’s somewhat annoying for me.

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I only wish I could be there Christmas morning when she opens it up!

Fabric: Nylon Spandex panel and swimwear lining from Pitt Trading

Trims: clear elastic from the stash

Pattern: my own

Alterations for next time: fix the topstitching!

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Calling for Pattern Testers

**EDIT** Thank you all for a wonderful response, I now have a huge pool of testers and won’t be taking on any more for awhile. I’ll be sending out emails to everyone who applied very soon.***

I’ve got some exciting plans coming up and I’ll be needing some pattern testers. So I’m asking for your help, if you are able to be a pattern tester that would be fabulous.

Here is a brief run down of what I need
– competent home sewers with an eye for detail
– ability to provide good feedback on fit and notes on pattern instructions
– patterns range from basic to intermediate/difficult and cover a range of skills. Fabrics will include wovens and knits. Skills will include (but are not limited to) application of lace, fold over elastic, swimwear elastic, collars and plackets.
– sewers of womenswear and children’s wear
– turnaround times will vary but a due date will be given so you have a time frame for testing.
– photos of the finished garments on a person. These do not have to be “modelled” shots.They are purely for help with the fitting process. Should you wish to share the images/pattern on your own blog or social media you are welcome to do so after the release date but it is not a requirement of you being asked to be a tester.

As compensation for your time and efforts you will receive the final version of the pattern and a discount code for your personal use on other patterns in the range.

To be a tester please comment below with
– your blog or social media handle so I can see what you like to sew and match you to the appropriate pattern
– your preference for wovens or knits
– your preference for womens or kids
– level of sewing experience

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Come sew Swimwear with me at Bobbin and Ink

Summer is coming and I couldn’t be more excited. Long days of sunshine to be filled with food, friends, adventures and swimming. Sewing wise this means lots of swimsuits and now you have the chance to join me to make your own swimsuit.
I’ll be teaching a class at Bobbin and Ink. Spread over multiple Sundays you can bring along any pattern you wish and by the end of the class our aim is for you to leave with a finished swimsuit! Yay!
So here are just a few of the options you could come and make
Papercut Patterns Soma Swimsuit

papercut patterns Soma swimsuit

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Named Patterns Beverly Twisted Bikini

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Closet case files Sophie Swimsuit

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Burda Alison Swimsuit

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McCalls 7417 you can order all the following patterns direct through Bobbin and Ink

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Butterick B6358

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Lisette B6360

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For each of your swimsuits be sure to read the exact requirements on your patterns but in general you are going to need

Fabric
Lining
Elastic suitable for swimwear
Thread
You’ll want a fabric that is suitable for swimwear so start searching out some stretch fabric. Pitt Trading has a fabulous selection of designer pieces.
I’d also suggest bringing along some tracing paper so we can do any alterations you need to your pattern without ruining your original pattern.
To book into your class head on over to Bobbin and Ink, see you there!

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Sewing Adventures – Return of Simplicity 8048

Sometimes you like a dress so much you just have to make another one, so that’s what I did! You may remember the African Wax print fabric I made into Simplicity 8048?

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Well I love wearing it, the swishy skirt, the flatness around the waistline and the overall fit is super comfortable and flattering to wear. I had been given some fabric for my birthday from the lovely Dale whom I work with at Pitt Trading. We are there on Fridays together and love coming up with plans for all the fabric. She thought this fabric was perfect for me and so gave it to me as a gift. So sweet!

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It’s a polished cotton but so lightweight that it’s practically a lawn. Seriously it feels like a cloud it’s so fine. I wanted to be able to wear it to work so I added a cotton voile lining to the bodice and a cotton poplin lining to the skirt. The voile keeps the bodice super lightweight while the poplin gives the skirt just a touch more body and weight. Last time I added pockets, this time I omitted them as the fabric is so lightweight I was worried about draglines if I put anything in my pockets.

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I did a fully bagged out lining so no edges are showing and did a decent (but not brilliant) effort of putting in the invisible zip. I used a zip I had on hand so it’s actually a pale grey colour.

Now I cut this one out without reading my blog notes from before and so didn’t alter the top neckline. It “puffs” ever so slightly above the bust in the strap area. If I stand very straight and pull the bodice down to my waistline it fixes the puffing. My guess it it’s a touch tight over the bust and is pulling up to find the path of least resistance. It’s vaguely annoying but not annoying enough for me to pull apart the dress and remake the bodice. Hopefully a different bra will fix the issue? If not I’ve noted it for next time.

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Fabric: Polished cotton from Pitt Trading, given as a gift from Dale

Trims: invisible zip from the stash

Pattern: my own bodice plus Simplicity 8048 skirt

Alterations for next time: see if I can sort out that neckline bubbling issue.

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Sewing Adventures – Papercut Patterns Pneuma Tank

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Continuing on my journey of making my own activewear, I’ve tackled the Papercut patterns Pneuma tank.

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It’s a different style to what I normally wear for running and I thought it might make a good top for when I’m doing weights? The looseness of the style lending itself to a bit more airflow? Or so the thinking went anyway.

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I followed the instructions in a loose way (interpret that as blundered in got most of the way done and went huh? And had to read the instructions). Constructionally I understand while some things were instructed to be done in that way but honestly am not happy with the finish at the straps on either the front or back? It’s fine it just feels a little clumsy? If I ever make it again I’ll try and figure out how to enclose the straps and make where the overlay is attached less bulky? It just seems to add bulk to the garment in weird spots? Am really hoping it works better while being worn?

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The underneath layer is made from the same black moisture wicking Lycra I used for my tights, the overlay is a technical pointelle style mesh that I got from The Fabric Store a few years ago.

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I’ve shown it on my dummy so you can see the straps. I’ve used both wide and narrow strapping elastic just for a bit of variation. I’ll wear a sports bra under it when I wear it, the underneath not being supportive enough for my needs. The dummy is smaller than I am hence why it looks a little baggy.

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I’ve tried it out while doing an NTC session and some kettlebells. It’s ok, it stays put, doesn’t ride up and you can’t feel it (all real sportswear shouldn’t be able to be felt while working out, if it can be then something is not working). I quite like the way it performs, the way it looks on me is less than flattering. It’s possible using a softer more drapey fabric for the overlay is key to getting it looking less sack like. The bunching near the front straps is particularly unflattering and makes me feel very big while wearing it.

Overall it’s ok but am certainly not in a rush to make more.

This is what happens when someone decides their yoga mat is all theirs…moments after this she tried to get belly pats while I was doing push ups and when that didn’t work attacked my head while I was doing a plank drill.

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Fabric: black Lycra from the stash, pink mesh from The Fabric Store (approx 2 years ago).
Trims: from the stash
Pattern: Papercut Patterns Pneuma tank
Alterations: figure out a better way to attach the straps, reduce bulk of overlay at strap joining point.

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Sewing Adventures – Sophie Hines Euler Bra

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I saw this pattern on instagram last week and just had to have it. It’s the first pattern from designer Sophie Hines, while this is her first sewing pattern she has been making and selling lingerie for some time and has this laid back sporty luxe style that’s super sexy without the raunch factor. The colour aesthetic Sophie uses is super minimal and really beautiful in these muted type tones.

Image of Euler Bra - Sewing Pattern

I wanted to whip up a quick wearable toile and so decided to make a swimsuit version using these lush lycras from Pitt Trading. So in keeping with my regular style why pick just one print when you can use ALL THE PRINTS.

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The pattern offers 2 versions, a single hook/clasp back or a double hook/clasp back. I chose the double as I thought it would be cute?

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After measuring myself and comparing it to the sizes I cut a size Large. Sizing is done as per garment sizing not cup sizing which I think is fine for soft cup bras.

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Sewing was fairly straightforward. I used my overlocker for all seams and then straight stitched on the elastic. The instructions are written more than illustrated so have a read through before you get sewing and just refer back to the original garment photos and you will be fine.

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I used what hardware I had on hand and took the opportunity to try some metal hardware and a plastic O ring too. I wanted to see how they will go in the water so snuck in a mismatched set so I can compare and contrast how they wear.
Everything went together easily and I like the fact it’s all lined as it makes it super smooth on the inside. I can see myself making more of these for sure. Am already thinking a soft bamboo jersey lined one would be great for summer.

Fabric: printed lycras from Pitt Trading, lightweight jersey lining from Pitt Trading

Trims: Elastic and hardware from the stash

Pattern: Sophie Hines Euler Bra

Alterations: none

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Custom Fashion Illustration Now Available

Ever wanted your outfits and makes made into your very own fashion illustration? well now you can.

An illustration

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Based on your photo

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Available now in the webstore are a variety of options to choose from, starting at just $5.

Huge thanks to Lizzy from SewBusyLizzy, Sophie from Ada Spragg, Amanda from Bimble and Pimble for use of their photos to use as inspiration for the drawings shown.

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Sewing Adventures – activewear

Lately we have been spending our Sundays out walking.

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Taking in the amazing city we live in. It’s great exercise and the views are breathtaking.

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I seriously never thought the day would come where I would sew activewear. It was not on my radar, I was perfectly happy with what I already had in the wardrobe.

Then one day we were getting ready to head out and I realised my run tights were showing more of my bottom than I am comfortable with. They were wearing out and going see through!

In the stash there was some black lycra. Super special stuff that was firm, moisture wicking, anti microbial, anti bacterial and originally designed for high end cycling kit. It would be perfect for tights for walking and running.

To save time and energy I cut an existing pair of tights up, traced them using a tracing wheel and added seam allowance back in. The only change I made was to eliminate the side seam in the upper panel.

I cut the upper in my sports lycra, the back knee from some mesh and the coloured panels are lycra from Pitt Trading.

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To construct I overlocked all the seams to the outside and then topstitched them down using a zig zag stitch. This was hugely labour intensive but the closest I could come to replicating a flat lock stitch with my own machines. It looks quite slick on the outside and it’s super nice to be seam free on the inside.

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The only glitch I had in construction was that in eliminating the side seam I made the upper back panel a nightmare to insert. I got there in the end but it was not easy to get it into that shape.

For the waistband I overlocked a piece of elastic to the outside of the garment, flipped it to the inside and topstitched in place.

Hems I did last by turning up and zig zagging.

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When I tried them on they felt compressive! Very pulled in feeling but not tight feeling, just incredibly firm.

I wore them out on a walk from Taronga Zoo to Balmoral beach. It’s a mix of boardwalk, bush track, sand stone and some stairs.

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I was a little worried the thicker fabric would feel hot but it didn’t, also had the added benefit of being such high spec fabric that the moisture wicking component is fabulous and you never feel sweaty despite how hard I had to work in some sections (short legs and tall stairs are not easy!). They held up incredibly well and only need a few minor alterations before I make some more.

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Safe to say I’ve caught the activewear sewing bug.

Fabric: Black sport lycra from my stash. Black mesh and coloured Lycra from Pitt Trading.

Trims: waist elastic from the stash

Pattern: made my own from RTW tights

Alterations for next time: Add side seams to make putting in rear panel easier, add 1cm extra through hip to allow for slightly less compressive feeling. Waistband tended to fold over a bit while walking. Perhaps use a drawstring but it needs a better solution than just the elastic.